Breasts and Wine

After the previous post and the comparisons to the female community...please do not read anything into the photo of the meal that accompanies Huber's wine. Duck Breasts!
Huber Bombacher Sommerhalde
Spätburgunder R 2005
Baden, Germany
The 'third' wine in the Huber hierachy..after Wildenstein & Hecklinger Schlossberg. It has the same basic style....it needs time..but maybe I was expecting this to be more open than the two mentioned...both tried recently from the 2005 vintage. Slightly leathery nose..and some plums...the palate shows cherry flavours..and a touch of strawberry..the oak shows...and the tannins are to the forth...time methinks...but if I was gonna drink any of the three 2005 now..it would be the Hecklinger...to be overtaken by the Wildenstein in 12 months. Both more expensive than the Sommerhalde though...
Points 17.25

Ideal meal with a red..the aforementioned Breast...and I don't claim the photo to be magazine quality..It shows what it was...I ain't gonna spray my plate with anything to add perfection to a photo.

Marry an Ahr Woman!

I recently read somewhere that Ahr reds do not mature...the Meyer-Näkel wines I have tried have been super..and my only 'aged' Kreuzberg was the 2004...but I guess the comments were meant for 10 year old wines. BUT...why age them when they are like this when young.

Kreuzberg Neuenahrer Schieferlay Spätburgunder G.G. 2007 Ahr, Germany
Look at this from a a man's view (you can change the sex depending how you are inclined). How many times in my youth did I see a nice face...but was not happy about the rest...and then she opened her mouth and had an accent that would cut glass! Rarely did that pretty face have a lovely figure and a soft enticing voice. When I finally found her..I married her!
Wines that look, smell, taste and finish without any waves are a real pleasure to drink...you hardly have to work on them...so enjoy them. Like this Kreuzberg...
Can you taste slate?...seems so...you can feel the flat stones throughout this wine...this is already just SO drinkable...
Pale cherry red colour...delicate wood berries....fruit driven...super balance..medium weight with gentle spice...briary tannins...30 second finish...worth a repeat buy I think..as it will hold nicely for a couple of years.
Points 17.75

Christmas Meal in November!!!

Those who know me...they know...that I dislike Christmas. Well..not exactly the 2-3 days...but the whole build up to it. Already in the stores and shops there are Christmas articles etc....grrrrr!!!! So...why the title?..well.. blame daughter No. 1 Bianca...who will be disappearing with her 'hubby' Jochen to Brazil for 5 weeks in December..and so will not be around for our get together on Xmas Eve. Hence...our 'Christmas' Meal in November. Off to our local eatery....and a couple of recent purchases...the first a 'simple' Franken..the second a more 'serious' wine from the Ahr Valley.

Fürst Spätburgunder Tradition 2007
Franken, Germany
The red wine 'Prince' of Franken Rudolf Fürst never disappoints. My good friend Robert visited the property recently and got to try the 'Hünsrück' 2007 and other wines of real quality. Quite by chance I had bought this bottle a few days ago...sweet, ripe fruit...dark smoke..lithe and earthy...honest style...you get something for your money here..a 'Spaßwein'..full of lively minerally tones........and at € 13.50..value for money.
Points 16



Deutzerhof Grand Duc Spätburgunder 2005
Ahr, Germany
"Grand Duc" refers to a type of owl that patrols the vineyard..and the wine spends nine months in new barrique. Medium deep colour...meaty FUNKY nose..touch of game..shocks you at first..Pinot at this age?...reminded me of a 10 year-old Chateauneuf-du-Pape...in the mouth it is cooler...a dry mid-palate..with a tough tannin structure ...will it develope?...2005 was not a top year on the Ahr....
Points 16.25



The second wine 'pointed' more..but the first was more enjoyable..I think we have all been there....

Werewolf Wine

Saturday 31st of October..Market day...and the Feldsalat (Lamb's Lettuce) looked good...this time of year is the time to try it....the fish stall has Sushi quality Tuna fish....so Eva had the ingredients for the evening meal...and as the full moon( on Halloween) lit up the dark autum sky...I pulled the cork on an aged GV. I don't have any in the cellar....one of those wines I just didn't lay down...but luckily there are some available.....and this was keenly priced at € 22,-
Emmerich Knoll
Grüner Veltliner
Smaragd Schütt 2003
Wachau, Austria
Yellow gold..nutty bouquet..lovely weighted palate...touch of caramel...the usual white pepper...soft explosion of sweet fruit...banana?...quite broad and mouthfilling...and a good finish sends you back for more.
Points 16.75

Rheinhessen Red

If you ask anyone to list the red wine areas of Germany...Rheinhessen would come in at about number seven. This is where white wine has priority. I like searching these 'lesser' areas...finding a property that maybe has a Spätburgunder hidden away....
Kühling-Gillot Oppenheimer Kreuz
Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs Barrique 2006
Rheinhessen, Germany
Carolin Spanier-Gillot and Hans Oliver Spanier are the pair behind this property...that is improving annually....50% of the vines being Riesling. This vineyard faces south-west and gets it's fair share of sun and warmth...and only one of two Grosses Gewächs vineyards in Rheinhessen. Their 'simple' SB is well worth buying at €10,--
Medium colour...pale Pinot rim...grainy nose...herbaceous and a touch of eucalyptus..and what the nose anticipates becomes reality on the palate...a mouth watering juiciness...full berry fruits..a slender feel to this one though....sleek...layed-back..and shows potential to improve.
Points 17

PS...I like Pinot Noir with a delicate Thai curry....they compliment each other so well...

Becker Boom Boom Lemberger

Seeger Lemberger 'R' 2007
Baden, Germany
The property is in Leimen, near Heidelberg..and the main claim to fame of the town is that Boris Becker was born here....which gives me the chance to tell my favourite Becker 'story'.
Boris got married recently and he was searching for a house in London. He has found one... 1 Dining Room, 2 Bedrooms...and 20 Broom Cupboards!
OK..back to business....Leimen is also north Baden.......Württemberg is in view..if you know what I mean. The grape Lemberger has it's German home there...it's brother is also 'a la maison' in Austria going by the name of Blaufrankisch. Now..Seeger interests me..the recent Cuvée Anna had pleased..so I decided to buy his Blauer Spärburgunder 'R' 2007...and it sits in my cellar..waiting for it's master. On the merchant's list was today's wine..so I was tempted. Now...what I like about the grape is when it is lighter in style...like a medium Bordeaux.....the impression here is that it is a little thick...it spends 18 months in oak..hence getting an 'R' for it's loss of light over that period..it is slightly gritty..which is fine for me..cigar-like smell..again fine by me.....red berry fruit..just maybe a touch too plump..and it ain't cheap at € 30,--. So...I'll cross the 'border' next time I get that Lemberger craving.
Points 16.25

Wachau Awakening

Veyder-Malberg Grüner Veltliner
Loibenberg 2008
Wachau, Austria
Peter Malberg was cellermaster at the Graf Herdegg property. 2008 they went their separate ways and he bought a few acres in Spitz, Wachau. Riesling and Grüner Veltliner...and he is the first grower with a 'hands-on' approach. No machinery in sight....Loibenberg with 40 year old vines to work with....






The first impression is of a clear style...the bouquet gives out a light delicate aroma...needs working on..trace of cream...on to the palate..and it is quite complex...if you want a Smaragd bomb..then this is not for you...me...well..somewhere in between...and this is still a little reserved..and left me wanting a touch more...but time may give it more polish.
Points 16

World Class Pinot Noir

An Englishman, A Frenchman, an American and a Mexican are on a small plane. The pilot shouts over the intercom...'We are losing height..we need a volunteer to jump off the plane'. The Englishman stands up and shouts 'God Save The Queen'..and jumps out. Ten minutes later..the pilot again saying it hadn't helped. The Frenchman stands up..shouts 'Vive La France'..and springs from the plane. Fifteen minutes later...another call from the pilot..the American gets up..shouts 'Remember The Alamo'..and throws the Mexican out.

A similar mix was on offer at our local Bistro....I took along wines from the U.S.A, New Zealand, France and Germany. My guess is..the first three would have thrown the German out....if only to shine more than they did. Volker, Robert and Axel were given the information...4 Countries, 2 Vintages..points were awarded..10 for country..5 for the vintage..and a bonus 5 if both were correct. From 80 points Robert had 60...it helped catching a glimpse of the screwtop New Zealander..I must be more careful next time. He is a wine merchant and shouldn't get any help.

Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2007
Martinborough, New Zealand
Deep, dark berry aroma...concentrated..a wildness to it...smoky, truffles...quite masculine..it is firm..but with subtle attractiveness now...very good
17.25




Friedrich Becker Spätburgunder Schweigener
Sankt Paul Grosses Gewächs trocken 2007
Pfalz, Germany
Long 'legs' in the glass....gorgeous elegant aroma...silky & sexy....believe me...impossible to get much more in a glass...as I have mentioned before..the vineyard is in France..and this would need a very good Chambolle-Musigny as competition...it spends some time in new oak barrels...smoky bacon smell...compact..perfectly balanced..the fruit just layers the tongue...the best Sankt Paul yet?....need to compare it side-by-side with the 2006...
Points 18.25

Thibault Liger-Belair Nuits St Georges La Charmotte 2005
Burgundy, France
At first suffered a lot following Becker..but developed it's own appeal with airing...quite meaty..and very French..juicy, earthy...some tannins still...dry smoke..needs a year or two
Points 17




Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir,
Bien Nacido 2005
Historic Vineyards Collection
California, U.S.A.
A terroir wine..Amaretto...marzipan...spices of the orient...thick but subtle tannins... and although drinkable..will benefit from 5 years in your cellar.
Points 17.5


All but the Becker wine I have tried before..and all scored a fraction more...the problem for them here was..the Becker just overawed us all. World class Pinot.

Saying GoodBye To A Friend

How do you say goodbye to an old friend.....he (or she) has been part of my (wine-drinking) life for as long as it's been my hobby. She (I have decided..being a Pinot Noir lover) has to go.....she is taking up space..and to be honest...has been lying there, doing very little..for almost 35 years.
At this point I had better explain. My wine drinking started back in 1975....after arriving in Germany and trying to sell French wines while learning the language. As if she knew I needed monthly help...Decanter emerged in September of that year...a wine magazine that helped and encouraged...that introduced me over the years to the wonderful world of wine. I purchased the very first issue...years later the binders...then I stopped the binders and just piled them up wherever there was space. Space....is the reason for this 'mild' rant. My wife says we need it for other 'important' things....and, to be honest, when was the last time I read the October 1979 version..or the January edition in 1991. Probably a few weeks after I read them...then they were hardly touched again. New issues arrived....new tasting notes...new regions to try. So..the question arrives...how do I 'lose' an old friend. Do I 'bury' her....buy a plot in a nearby vineyard....or is a 'cremation' necessary...with a glass of Dom Perignon at my lips and a tear in my eye. She has to go....I need sympathy and advice...

Great Minds Think Alike

Volker rang...he and his wife Steffi were going out for a meal...join them?...yep..so Eva & myself walked the short distance...Volker was bringing a red...so I was quickly into the cellar and pulled out my choice of red...along with the GV to get the taste buds going. We sat, chatted, laughed..enjoyed the food..and the reds were covered up. I had to guess the Salwey..Volker the Gantenbein.and the saying 'Great Minds Think Alike' came to mind. We couldn't have planned the 2 reds better....they just paired so well.
Hiedler Grüner Veltliner Thal 2007
Kamptal, Austria
Palate is more dominant is the initial impression...aromas of minerals...layed-back smokiness...a peppery touch sends you to a quite full-bodied wine....surprises a little...an oiliness...even exotic..but remaining dry throughout. We all agreed..excellent value at € 13,--
Points 16.5







Salwey Kirchberg Spätburgunder G.G. 2006
Baden, Germany
This showed a slightly soft burnt bouquet which opened with a few swirls..then fine ripe fruit..decent oak...and the palate was full of cherry flavours...very well made...the tannins just caressing the fruit. I guessed Germany..and 2006...then gave up.
Points 17.5








Gantenbein Pinot Noir 2005
Fläsch, Switzerland
After a recent try of the 2007..it was time to open this one....Gorgeous nose...the Salwey lost out here...intense sweet crushed fruit...velvet Pinot..and it just lies so perfectly as you slurp and taste...cinnamon..very ripe fruit...gentle tannins and delicate acidity..cool wine that is at it's peak now...we discussed how long it would age...and I still have three bottles...but why would you want to...how could you resist it.....and this would be difficult to beat in ANY blind tasting. Top wine from Switzerland.
Points 18

The Früh Bird Catches The Blogger's Eye

A simple explanation for all non-german speakers....is that the Frühburgunder is ready 2-3 weeks before Big Brother Spätburgunder. This example from a property known for it's reliable, if not earth-moving, whites showed what improvements are being made with reds in Franken.
Zehnthof Luckert Frühburgunder *** 2006
Franken, Germany
Wild, spicy berry aroma..fresh and spritely it shows itself from the glass...cinnamon ...very inhalable...on the palate..again that slightly wild feel..with a soft tannic bundle...about as much as you want with this variety...very well made..and a surprise to be honest. Is Luckert one to watch in the future?
Points 16.75




PS...not worth a post of it's own...
The Paris Cornas Granit 30 2005 from the Rhône was purchased after a recent note I saw on the 2007 raving about the wine. Methinks this had a failing...the soft chewy tannins were outdone by a strong acidity that marred any further real pleasure for me. Next day..still not softened...strange and a disppointment. Not even the background still-shot of Catherine Deneuve..the French legendary actress could tame this one.
PS again...
I called the merchant..and he is sending another example..watch this space.

X Marks The Spot

My first taste of a Cuvée X goes back over 3 years ago...
I wanted a half bottle of Lynch-Bages 2001 Pauillac in a restaurant..but was told it was sold out so I decided to try the 2003 Cuvée X. It was decanted and I thought they had found the Lynch-Bages. A dead ringer..
The last bottle was superb.....
Time to try the 2005.....so about the same age span....
Knipser Cuvee X 2005
Pfalz, Germany
This spends 28 months in new French oak..cuvée is Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc und Merlot....cool cassis...power nose...liquorice traces..tobacco and the usual cedar...deep and intense...big chewy tannins but with a velvet touch...there is a dark fruit feel..plums and blackberries....just leave it a year or two..and watch it develope.
Points 17.5

A Rare Substitute

While trying to purchase some of Becker's Sankt Paul' 2006.. I was offered this as an alternative. HE Dausch is the son of a grower...ex-banker..ski teacher...and since 2001..without a property.
He inherited the vineyard Eschenbacher
Herrschaftswingert...where the vines are around 18 years old. His good friend Fritz Becker Jr. has filled 3 new barrels with the grapes...they stay in there for 19 months. I know many readers say they hardly see many of the wines I drink in Germany.....sorry to say..this one is even more rare than most.





HE Dausch 'the gurus'
Pinot Noir 2006
Bottled by Friedrich Becker
Rhein, Germany
Medium colour..with an orange rim..looks older than it is...very French nose...touch of smoke...the palate shows compact fruit..minerals...classy...more female than male..if you get my drift...lovely balance..gentle spices.
Points 17.75

A Fiery Softie

Württemberg is just so exciting at the moment...the properties there and always trying something different..and stamping their own style on the wines
J. Ellwanger Cuvée Nikodemus
Hades trocken 2005
Württemberg, Germany
Rich deep colour...a juicy wasabi...hits the front tongue with an almost extreme spiciness...this is a fiery softie..layers of fruit...mostly Merlot with a some Syrah and Lemberger thrown in...reminded me in style of a good Loire...
Points 17

Bercher's Burkheimer Best

Many of the German reds I drink will not be seen outside Germany.....whether things will change as the world awakes to the rising quality..we will see. Until then...read on dear bloggers....and pine...
Weingut Bercher Burkheimer Feuerberg Spätburgunder G.G. Spätlese trocken 2005 Baden, Germany
Bercher has his own style..drier than many...definite terroir...the 2003 was maybe TOO hot a vintage..and never appealed to me...the 2005 style is maybe more suited....medium red...dark berry aroma..earthy..elegant fruit of new oak...tobacco....harmonius tannins...went down easy...but has staying power.
Points 17.25