My wife went away for a long weekend..a friend had a birthday. That means I am a Strohwitwer...(the translation roughly means a grass widower..temporary solo period). So..what do I do?...well.. I plan my eating and drinking....Day 1
A sub-title may have been a 'tale of 2 corks'
An Italian restaurant I hadn't visited for a while....Ambiente Italiano. I wanted to drink Spätburgunder so it was BYO ( no..not Barry You Oaf...but..Bring Your Own)..which is no problem for owner Riccardo. I ordered the menu..and the bottle was opened.Meyer-Näkel Dernauer Pfarrwingert
Spätburgunder 1999Ahr, GermanyThe cork here was almost dry..no moisture..which maybe should have been a pre-warning. One of my favourite properties...and an excellent vintage...BUT..unfortunately the wine was not up to it..methinks a bad bottle...musty..dirty rag..a few swirls..nada....I would love to know if it is a one-off.Now..tell the truth..in my position..what would you do about what to drink..ah..but you forget..here sits a man who has seen, heard..and tried..to drink it all. On leaving home..I had put a 'reserve' bottle in the bag. See.....preparation saves the day.
Köhler-Ruprecht 'Philippi' 'RR' Spätburgunder 1998Pfalz, GermanyBernd Philippi is an individualist....not everything turns out right that he releases...BUT...when it does work..his wines are a revelation. His Riesling both 'R' and 'RR' and not to be missed...as are also his Spätburgunder. He releases them when he thinks they are ready...
Here the cork was fully moist..and difficult to extract. This is lighter in colour than the 1999 tasted a few months again..and it also a more delicate example. Sweet strawberries spring from the glass..a gentle rippling flavour..mineral and tobacco..it slowly opened up...but remained a layed-back lady...nice earthiness..more than any other area in German..the Pfalz displays it's 'terroir'..a pleasure to drinkPoints 17.5Photos of the 3 courses with German description...this is a wine blog!!!...Foodies can use the Translator....
Capesante con Fagioli Zolfini e Crostini al LardoGebratene Jakobsmuscheln mit Zolfini-Bohnenund gerösteten Brotwürfeln mit "Lardo di Colonnata"
Tortelloni ripieni di Pesce con Gamberetti e DragongelloHausgemachte Tortelloni gefüllt mit Edelfischen, Garnelenund Estragon-Jus
Sella di Cinghiale con Bietola e Crocchette di PorroWildschweinrücken in Mangoldmantel, Lauchkrokettenund Preiselbeeren
Day 2Volker & Steffi..on hearing of my dilemma..invited me to their house for some food...all excellent as usual...a mix of Chinese and Provence...there were a few bottles of Dr Crusius wines..a Weissburgunder 2008 and the Frühburgunder 2007...both perfect with the food...and always reliable.I had brought along a bottle....to see if the Meyer-Näkel 1999 the night before was a one-off. This is the next one down in quality at this property.
Meyer-Näkel Spätburgunder 'S' 1999Ahr, GermanyA burnt..dark toast smell...the oak has completely disappeared...cherry fruit..trace of raspberry?...still spicy and slightly peppery..and a smooth mouthful of fully mature Spätburgunder. Now...should I risk another bottle of the Pfarrwingert?Points 17Day 3And so to another restaurant...Jägerhof... where I can take some wine along. As a thank you to Volker & Steffi..this was my treat.
I decided on a Riesling to accompany the 'amuse geule' & the first course.
Querbach Oestrich Doosberg 'Erstes Gewächs' Riesling trocken 2005
Rheingau, Germany
Stainless cap closure....The first impression is the 'Restsüß'....not a bottle you could take alone maybe..but between three of us...and with the food it was fine.
Concentrated..intense aroma of ripe fruit..typical of the vintage...peaches..on to taste..and after the first shock..this is more 'Spätlese' trocken..and the sweetness left on the lips..lies nicely in the mouth and the Riesling awakens the palate...it's a wine that wants to be liked...and maybe needs a year or two to remove it's sweet baby fat?
Points 16
I had brought along 2 reds....both from Spain..and I suppose one could call them 'cult' wines.
Both opened 2 hours before tasting.
Roda 1 Reserva 1996
Rioja, Spain
Milky colour...leathery aroma..spicy intensity...pepper and herbs....hiding something...opened up to show fresh mushrooms.. a powerful wine with a hard fruit..very minerally..ripe tannins...interesting to taste...but still seems a little awkward. Will time help..or will it start to dry out?
Points 17
Finca Dofi 1998Priorat, Spain
Made by the 'superstar' in Priorat..Alvaro Palacios. The mix is of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot..and a few others thrown in.
Clear colour....purple red...velvet aroma...cassis of the Cabernet..some liquorice...the palate showed fresh, lively acidity...tannins rounded..a soft marzipan fruit evolved...complex...a delicious wine..and depending on your taste..about right to drink.
Points 17.75
The grapes for this Malbec come from a select block of Catena's more than 60 year-old Angélica vineyard. Named after Nicolás Catena's mother, the vineyard is Catena's premier Malbec vineyard. The soil and climate of the Angélica vineyard are ideal for growing Malbec. The 1997 was the first vintage of this wine.....and is only released in certain years..The wine is aged for 12 months in 100% new French oak.
Catena Alta Malbec Angelica Vineyard 1997Mendoza, ArgentinaSome wine countries scare me out of buying.......OK..there are exceptions....but after 30 years of divulging the stuff...I search for the reserved beauty..not the buxom lass. Argentinian wines I have tried occasionally...and have found a few 'Fruit-Bombs'. The name Catena helped me decide to purchase this 12 year old Malbec. If the best property couldn't convince me..what could? Deep, ruby red colour...dusty nose at first..then blackberry fruit..spices...cool...a blind tasting would have pointed me to Bordeaux maybe..Pauillac..or maybe better..St.Estéphe...this is down to the dry, earthiness..that's not to say this is fruitless..far from it..rich 'liquid' plums comes to mind...dry tobacco..intense and concentrated..at 12-years old this has 'velvety' tannins...and some 'hot drink' flavours..couldn't decide on coffee or chocolate...the 14% would have worried most 'lasses'..but this elegant 'dame' carries it of beautifully...certainly the best Malbec I have tasted..and definitely the best wine from Argentina.Points 17.5
Stodden Recher Herrenberg Frühburgunder 2006
Ahr, GermanyThe photo you see was of the first bottle I opened...which was corked. The merchant was imformed..and another bottle followed 'tout suite'. Now...Stodden and myself havn't really hit it off yet....those I tried young were that..too young...and older ones are not readily available.This was recommended to me....a Frühburgunder..which to nearly everyone..when tasted blind...is just like BIG brother Herr Spät! This spends 16 months in new small oak barr
els...the first impression is of wild strawberries...a fruity spiciness follows..even peppery..good juice..this is very French in style..south Burgundy springs to mind.....grainy easy tannins...dried smoke...plums...petals...and while easy to drink...a couple of years will do it good. The rest tasted next day had held up well..and showed a pleasant taste of cooked red berries.Points 17
As I had a birthday..I decided to hold a comparative tasting of 2006 Spätburgunder wines from Germany...all from the 2006 Vintage. They are 60 years younger than the birthday boy (which should make it easy to calculate my age..although nowadays TOO many folk need a gadget to add up....whatever happened to that organ between the ears?).....anyway..your 49-year old Blogger chose 4 different areas...the wines from the lower to middle price range..and..by a strange coincident (it had to be..my Birthday always falls at the same time)..Lyle, a fellow blogger had been at a tasting..where the 1st and last flights had been excellent..but he had been disappointed by the middle flight of a range of Germany wines. My 4 would have wiped the floor with them. There are some excellent wines and values for this type of Spätburgunder..but, of course, they are not available to those across the waters.As a starter with Calamares and Gambas...a real gem of an Sauvignon Blanc.
Kuhn Sauvignon Blanc
Mandelpfad trocken 2007Pfalz, GermanyGreen fruit aroma..and some Kiwi..and almons..a trace of gooseberry..but 'my type'...I am not a lover of the overdone type of Sauvignon Blanc....as it opened..it became intense..sweet melons and ended with a lingering finish..this was very good..and at € 12,--..a real snipPoints 17.25Except for a few growers..Rheinhessen was never really known for good wines..but that is all changing. The property Kühling-Gillot is one of the up & coming ones..founded in it's prese& Gabi Kühling..and since 2002..has been run by daughter Caroline..along with her husband Hans Oliver Spanier..
Kühling-Gillot Spätburgunder trocken 2006Rheinhessen, GermanyPale colour..cool..elegant smell of soft marzipan..enticing red fruits...agreeable burnt smoke..as it opened..there was cream..ripe fruits...not a BIG wine..this costs € 10,--and it's worth every cent...a great start to the tastingPoints 16.5Jacob Duijn used to be a 'sommelier'..he worked for the top cook Eckart Witzigmann in Munich..and he is from Holland..and was rated highly in Baden...but the recent vintages 2004 & 2005 were maybe not up to standard. However, with 2006, everything seems to be back in order. Duijn produces only Pinot Noir..and they all spend time in new oak barrels.
Duijn Alsenhof
Spätburgunder trocken 2006Baden, GermanyGood red colour..more serious..aroma of raspberry fruit..bitter almonds..mushrooms..earthy..smoke..
nicely integrated oak..this needed a little time in the glass..then showed character and depth.Points 16.75The wines from Rudolf Fürst do make it abroad...his top wines are available..but highly priced. His 'R' Spät & Frühburgunder wines are not to be missed...but I chose his 'simpler' Centgrafenberg...of which the 2006 was better that 2005.
Fürst Spätburgunder Centgrafenberg 2006Franken, GermanyCentgrafenberg’s success derives from its limestone soil (similar to parts of Burgundy) and its south-facing slopes, enabling the vines to soak up the maximum heat from Franken’s hot, dry summers. Always intriguiging comparing areas like this..Franken..of course.. has another style..and this was aged in mostly French oak..40% of which is new..for 16 months..soft spices..and the appeal of marzipan and sour cherry..fine balance and freshness..elegant..Points 17The final wine is a Grosses Gewächs (First Growth)...and from the property we started with..book-ends to a fascinating evening.
Kuhn Mandelberg Spätburgunder 2006Pfalz, GermanyAt € 25,--and the most expensive wine of the flight..but here is real class...perfect..just perfect...medium deep colour...thick fruit on the nose..dark berries..cream..and this followed onto the palate..a light peppery touch..perfect balance....mmmm....tasty.Points 17.75
Back home...my youngest daughter presented me with a 'birthday cake'...
Knipser Chardonnay ****
Auslese 2003 trocken Barrique Pfalz, Germany
I recently had the Riesling Auslese 2003..which has been around a while..the Chardonnay was only released in May 2008. It's always great to have an 'exciting' wine....and the main reason here is that this is not like the most Chardonnays. Gold in colour...with a gorgeous mild honey smell..soft toasty..and a touch of grapefruit....the oak only hovers......so...onto the palate..this is 'spriteley'..no lip-smearing oak..perfect balance..ripe, sweet fruit..and..what really impresses..minerals galore. What makes this so different..and it is meant as a compliment..this is a Chardonnay made in a Riesling style..does that help to understand what I mean?...a good finish...and you have a wine to enjoy now..but it will hold nicely for 3-4 years.
Points 17.75
After the previous 2 Rieslings..the last bottle of this 2003 seemed the natural finish for the noble trio... Knipser just makes very good wine..and he has just been
voted the 'Grower Of The Year 2009 ' by Gault Millau. Not only are his Riesling tops..he now has plots of Merlot & Syrah...as well as his excellent Spätburgunder..and he even has a fine Chardonnay & some Grauburgunder.
The oriental gentleman is Shum Shing Man...who has been with us a long time. He is 'pflegeleicht' (easy to look after)..and likes his Riesling..it goes well with his diet!
Knipser Riesling Auslese Trocken
Halbstück 2003Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany 
This is the best Riesling Knipser produces...and costs ONLY € 15,--. According to Gault Millau..the 2004 is worth 94 points!!! Yellow-gold colour...classic ripe nose..nuts with citrus fruit aromas..clear..ripe fruit.....with a mouth-watering juicy acidity..which worried me not..as it is wrapped up with the Restsüße..touch of smoke..and a definite grapefruit flavour. Knipser releases his wines when they are ready to drink..and at this price / quality ratio..should be snapped up.
Points 17.5
The first wine was part of a mixed case or 2007 Rieslings...I had not forgotten it....just sometimes when I want a Riesling my stomach tells me it doesn't want too much acidity....maybe that is why I chose soft cushions as background...Dönnhoff does nothing simple..but this is his 'basic' Riesling from the best Vintage for yonks.
Dönnhoff Riesling 2007Nahe, GermanyA soft 'plop' as the cork left the bottle...and the wine showed a slight prickle...and me..not a Prosecco lover...A gentle firm pear aroma..fresh and minerally...herbs and a touch of citrus...light & easy.....and the acidity..which is nicely integrated..it just me this time..bad luck on the wine..Points 15As so it was that I went into the cellar again..I needed a meatier version..my stomach tells me..and I listen...
Hirsch Gaisberg Riesling 2005Kamptal, Austria Naturally..a different 'kettle of fish' here...my 'stuff'..petroleum...yellow-gold colour...smokey....this is classy Riesling...spices..mineral fragrance..medium bodied...but the wine is 'dry'..as I like it...crunchy maybe describes it better...perfect with lightly spiced Indian food.Points 17.25
The new Brad Pitt film.....'The Curious Case of Benjamin Button'...without saying too much..is about someone born old who gets younger. Strange that this wine followed a viewing...Finca Sandoval 2003
Manchuela, SpainA mix of Syrah 84%, Monastrell 9% & Bobal 7%Deep colour with purple tinges..legs galore....a lovely ripple of sweet raspberry exhudes from the glass...enticing....as it developed..cigar-box Bordeaux-like..then ground pepper.. and some liquorice....on the palate..quite smooth..layers of fruit..and seems almost ready.....
but after an hour..the velvety tannins seemed to become more aggressive..so after half a bottle..I decided a 24-hour wait was on the cards..and the next day the wine was very port-like..slightly harsh....so..as I said.. a Benjamin Button of a wine..first impression..points 17.5.
but on reflection..only
Points 17