Thursday, September 27, 2012

A Trio Of Goodies

My occasional meeting with Robert & Volker...2 wine friends...both of whom's taste buds I trust.
I asked for marks out of I was passing them on to a source interested in buying.
All tasted blind
The opener...a real goodie...

Prager Wachstum Bodenstein
Riesling Smaragd 2009
Wachau, Austria

Instant petroleum...I know some hate it....but maybe I am a gas station junkie! Middle green....reminded us of a Chablis in colour....honey melons and peaches once I had had my petrol whiff...crisp citrus....a lovely sweet 'Spätlese' feel...instantly followed by zippy minerals...and a fine dose of acidity
Points 94  / 100 from all of us

Joachim Hollerith Maikammer Heiligenberg
Maximus Pinot Noir 2009
Pfalz, Germany

I discovered the Hollerith property a few years ago...and found my buddy I have had the 2005, 2007 and 2008 all of which impressed...but now single bottles only remain.
Buy a few more of the new vintage I 6 bottles were ordered...although Joachim Hollerith said they had not done the labels yet.  As you can see...this is a 'garage' property for want of another word.
Returning from holiday...I practically met the postman with the package. My secretary claiming I was hardly back home and wine was arriving. What can I say?
Deep young colour...marzipan pure...ripe, rich fruit...dense...the guys were heading for New World...which brought a smile to my lips as Joachim Hollerith had spent many years in the U.S.A.
Now...just to be clear here....this is no heavyweight New World has a style of it's own..and I love it.
Volker gave it 91...Robert rated it even more...93 Points...I was in between...92...and at € 25,-- is my tip of the year.

Martin Wassmer Pinot Noir GC 2009
Baden, Germany

I recently tried the 2008 which was brilliant...but no longer  the next best thing...vintage 2009.
Deep smokey cherry aroma...complex....youthful...loads of interest here...violets and some tar. The oak is nicely integrated and it is long.
Give it time...
We all marked it with 94 Points...but it costs € 53,-- so you can guess what I am going to can?...then I will save myself the trouble.

As always...Volker supplied some good food...and the cheeses were a perfect reason to go back to the Riesling

Saturday, September 01, 2012

Back To The Roots Of Pleasure

The photo at the top on my blog was taken a few years ago. Some things in life just don't change...if it's not broken...don't mend it. The same view awaited me in Waldulm...Rebstock's views still leave me breathless...the food wine and staff are still a wonderful experience. Two weeks of endless pleasure...

Tuesday 28 August 2012
Arrived mid-afternoon...sun and clouds battling it out...but we decided to sit in the restaurant. Start out with a light meal...was my idea. A greeting from the kitchen...was followed by 'Carpaccio vom Rinderfilet' and 'Terrine von Gartentomaten und Gebratenen Gambas'.... the former an explosion of delightful summer flavours.

My wife chose the 'Filet von der Lachsforelle im Brickteig gebacken'...which was a touch too much for we shared...and her preference was my choice of the 'Zanderflet auf der Haut gebraten'.

I was now pretty full as I had helped out with the Lachs...but Eva-Maria chose two which was as she likes it 'Zitronengelee mit Himbeerschaum'...the other more to my liking...'Eistorte'
I chose the fish to go wth the wine...tried before...and never a bore.

Tement Sauvignon Blanc 2008
South Styria, Austria

Perfect harmony...gooseberry and cream...
Points 17.5

Wednesday 29 August 2012
Breakfast on the terrace...which I have done before...although now it is 'official'. Gorgeous...with the morning sun warming the cockles of my heart. The staff were arriving for the lunch session...and I bumped into Karl Hodapp. I had brought along a gift for aged Albarino 2005.

A few drops of rain landed around midday...but the warmth remained and we reserved a table on the terrace for the evening meal.

A few changes to the menu...and two soups pleased....'Schaumsüppchen vom Pfifferling und Steinpilz' and 'Schaumsüppchen von Muskatkürbis. It is the Pumpkin season...and I love them.
While my wife repeated the Carpaccio...I was given a taster...'Jakobsmuschel mit Tomate, Olive und Fenschelschaum'
The 'Gänseleber in Kirschbalsamico' was off the list...but the main ingredient was now partnered by Zwetchgen. My main course was the 'gebratenes Brüstchen von der Bauernente'

Molitor Pinot Noir 2007
Mosel, Germany

I have had this every time I visit the Rebstock...and was a touch disappointed...was better 3 months ago...still very good...but maybe going through a 'growing pain' stage. The longer in the glass the more it filled out...

Points 17.5


Thursday 30 August 2012
Clouds, clouds, clouds...but I breakfasted on the terrace.
Around midday we drove to window shop...
and then walk through the shopping area which resulted in the purchase of a new handbag,

It had really cooled down by late we ate inside. A Greeting from the kitchen involved Pumpkin...then warm soups were the choice...followed by my lady's choice of a 'Kleine Portion gebratene Weck-Servietten-Knödel mit Pfifferlingen und Schnittlauch ala creme' and I taking the Medaillon vom Lamb im Oliven-Thymianmantel, dazu zweierlei Bönnchen und Münsterrösti'. The Rösti were delicious...

A young girl kept walking past our table...and eventually trusted herself to say hello.
The SW has been on the list a while now...but kept getting pushed to the side when the choice was made. A recent bottle of the properties top red decided me that it was time I tried this. Glad I did.

Martin Wassmer SW 2007
Baden, Germany

Liked this...and like the way Martin
Wassmer makes his Pinots...a touch French...and this has some spiky Strawberry fruit and is just about perfect now.
Points 17.25

Friday 31 August 2012
A bad night...I slept 3 hours only to wake with my wife saying she had not slept yet...and as happens...both parties kept the other awake. It was 6 am before we both found our snoring position. I dragged myself down to breakfast...and as I type pondering returning to the sheets.

Two hours sleep but felt better...and a cigar and a piece of cake followed
Surprises can be wonderful...and the one planned for this holiday begins with H.
My wife loves Hummer (Lobster)...but rarely is it served to perfection. I had asked Bettina on Tuesday if it was possible to obtain a fresh Lobster. The answer was positive and the plan was for Friday. The original plan was to say nothing until we wre sat at the table in the evening...but my wife was contemplating maybe having an evening 'in'...hence not much food. On hearing this I said I had a the hope that would be enough. No I told her of the surprise. She was like a kid in a toy shop...until we went down to the restaurant. We weren't sure how it would be served...but Bettina told us in two courses.
This turned into three with a greeting from the kitchen being Lobster with Spätzle. The rest, they say, will never be forgotten. Perfectly prepared...and my wife knows her Lobsters...100 points were pssed on to the kitchen...and she was beaming all the way back to the room. But that is jumping ahead...I decided on a fish course...'Küchle von Hecht und Zander im Kartoffel-Kürbiskleid'...and chose a white I knew I would get mouthfuls of Lobster.

I had tried the Gantenbein in May...then purchased a bottle on Ebay ( in July when most were on holiday...thus paying a good price)
Gantenbein Chardonnay 2009

Expensive...but so are many pleasures...and once in 2 weeks you just gotta try it again.
Points 18

A selection of desserts completed the evening's delights.


Saturday 1 September 2012
Still overcast...I took a rug and breakfasted again on the terrace. I need fresh air in the morning.

Bercher Burkheimer Feuerberg 2007
Baden, Germany

I never give up on a passing it by over the last few years...I ordered the Bercher 2007. It seemed closed and unattractive and was always hard work throughout the evening. is still hard work...but there is maybe light at the end of the tunnel. Still the nose remains a mystery...there is a whole lot in there...but maybe it needed a BIG decant.
The palate...well..think of a big Bordeaux at an early stage...and you arrive at the Bercher.
As I have often said...we all have our own favourite styles...and on the next table...they were drinking the same wine...and seemed to like it. I was asked from the kitchen how I was marking 100 points 89...
Points 17.25
The food...ah...a couple of new things to try...Vitello Tonatto Baden style...and then the highlight of the evening...'Rinderfilet in a Krüst'...was absolutely delicious.


Sunday 2 September 2012
My wife decided to join me for breakfast...but was not prepared to sit outside.
Nicely energized...we set off to drive around the countryside.
We took the high road to the Mummelsee...which was surrounded with clouds. As we crossed the car park...6 vehicles arrived. Black windows...and bodyguards from and back. Various females with covered heads appeared from the darkened doubt on a day trip from Baden-Baden. I doubt they would be buying the Black Forest hams and salamis...and a walk round the sea was also a cold alternative. Maybe a tea-shirt with 'I was at the Mummelsee' was on the agenda. the very rich live...give me my life any day.
The Black Forest high road continues towards Freudenstadt...but we turned off down through Bad Peterstal...had a coffee in Oberkirch...and arrived back at the Gasthaus mid-afternoon.
The evening comprised of a repeat of the Rinderfilet with the Carpaccio starter.

A red wine stain on the tablecloth was made decorative...make a plus out of a minus.

The wine...which was voted top German red for the vintage was
Huber Hecklinger Schlossberg Spätburgunder 2008
Baden, Germany

Enormous power here...but not a blockbuster...just a tight bundle of all that a great wine needs. Complex aromas of dark berries, iron, meat...the palate is still a mass of raw ingredients...
Points 17.5 at the moment...

Monday 3 September 2012

Monday's...I don't like Mondays...cos the Gasthof is closed in the are most decent places to eat. Over the years we have done the lot...trying desperately to find something...evening a MacDonalds.

 My wife had a midday hairdressing appointment in Achern so I wandered around the town...had a coffee at the local cake shop...with the cheeky birds landing on the tables to eat the crumbs and then found a China-Thai-Wok place.My wife had a midday hairdressing appointment in Achern so I wandered around the town...had a coffee at the local cake shop...with the cheeky birds landing on the tables to eat the crumbs and then found a China-Thai-Wok place. My wife had a midday hairdressing appointment in Achern so I wandered around the town...had a coffee at the local cake shop...with the cheeky birds landing on the tables to eat the crumbs and then found a China-Thai-Wok place.
We left the choice open...but a 5pm decided we wanted Asian food. The friendly waitress was a good start...and the Wan-Tan soup was wife's Spring Roll was not...but the main courses were maybe going to save that starter. You must be joking! My wife' plate of glass-noodles (cold) with chicken was large enough to feed a family of 4...and my choice of a Thai curry with prawns was a slightly smaller version ( you get a photo as I refused to photograph my wife's mountain of food). The curry sauce a I just ate the prawns. We left quickly...found an Italian Ice bar...and tried to remove all memories of the food.
Ah...MacDonalds...don't knock it...there are worse places.

Tuesday 4 September 2012
As usual...when she sleeps on...I take coffee up to the room for my wife.

Herr Hodapp had offered me a bottle on the house for tonight...Kopp's new top wine.
Ewald Kopp for some reason took his own life in May this year. His son, 22 years old, now has the responsiblity for the property.
A change on the menu...and we chose the 'Versucherle' (small portions) of 'Mouse vom Gorgonzola, mit Feige-Orangen-Kompott und gegrilltem Speck' and 'Weisswürstl vom Kaninchen aud Belugalinsen'. I followed ths with 'Medaillon vom Kirschkalbrücken aus frischer Jagd (said goodbye to this world only a few days ago) im Wallnussmantel'
The evening was just about warm enough to sit out on the terrace...and the evening sky has an indescribable colour.

Kopp Klosterberg Felsen
Spätburgunder Reserve 2009
Baden, Germany

Certainly a fine wine...with soft good vintage fruit and a complexity...the only question that Herr Hodapp and I it worth € 65,-- from the property?
Points 17.25

Wednesday 5 September 2012
Breakfast  alone on the terrace...a chat with Karl Hodapp about wine etc...then a call on my mobile from my sleeping beauty...needed coffee...then off to the Mummelsee to buy some Black Forest Ham. We arrived back at the Gasthof  at 2.30 pm...and my wife noticed that a Morgan car was parked there. Surprise, was her oldest friend Marianne and her man Jupp...they were on their way back from a holiday in Italy. They had booked into a small hotel nearby...and would be dining with us for two evenings. Day one...the meal and wines on us...

Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner
Smaragd Honigvogl 2009
Wachau, Austria

It hits you with the sweetness...but is quickly followed by the extreme minerality
that always keeps these Smaragd wines a total attraction for me. Improved with airing...and the bottle was soon emptied and Jupp was very enthusiastic
Points 17.5

Dr. Heger Ihringer Winklerberg
Spätburgunder Häusleboden G.G. 2008
Baden, Germany

Intense aroma...a real nose full of dark berries...the palate still lagging behind...with a thick strawberry layer and meaty but approachable tannins.
Points 17.5 but with potential

Thursday 6 September 2012
Snoring...I hardly slept...but managed to make breakfast at 10.30 am.
Our friends arrived and we had a lovely walk along our favourite 'nature' path...then took them to the Zuckergbergschloss cafe....and they loved it...the sun was warm...then a walk up behind the Rebstock. Jupp is a part-time Vigneron...and it was enjoyable as he explained a couple of points about the grapes on the vine.

I could choose the wines...Jupp was paying...and I know he likes Riesling.
F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd 2009
Wachau, Austria

What a top Riesling...already a trace on the petroleum that draws me to these wines.
Points 17.5

d a repeat drink of the opening days wine...
Tement Sauvignon Blanc 2008
South Styria, Austria

Points 17.5

We sat outside covered with blankets as it had cooled...drank the wine...smoked a cigar and laughed until late evening.

Friday 7 September 2012
After breakfast...filled up with petrol...I have a car that uses plenty...and then drove up the back road to try to locate the 'Tree on the Hill'. we see it every time and wonder why it is all alone up there. Driving along small roads...through the trees with the sunlight glinting through the shadows...and every so often a small plateau with a single house. You really are alone if you live up there. I think I found it...or at least got close to time will drive further. The air up there was like a mountain clear...and the view just so beautiful.

Back down...I put on my walking shoes and set up into the vineyard which we see every day from our balcony. It is a stiff walk to the top....then a cool woodland pathway...and then I saw the sign 'Zückerbergschloss'. It was something I always wanted to to get there I continued onwards...and eventually arrived there. A wedding reception had taken over most of the seating area...but a Vanille Milkshake and I was off again...down towards Kappelrodeck....then left up past the Kappel Castle (in Russian hands now)...and along the flat vineyard road to the hotel. A quick 'cold' shower...then down onto the terrace for a coffee and a Cigar...Siglo 1 is my love at the moment. All of the above alone as my wife was taking a sleeping break. She arose at 4pm and declared she would like to go apple buying...then to the local Supermarket for some nourishment for her to eat in our room. That done...I went into the restaurant alone...with books, magazines etc. Over the years it has never been daunting to eat can be pleasurable at times.
I decided on a couple of the 'Versucherle' and the Rinderfilet. The wine was going to be the Becker Pinot Noir 2007 which I had drank in May. Then I noticed it was the 2009. Certainly an equal vintage in quality...but was it a touch too early. The info from out of the kitchen was that it could be enjoyed...and as Karl Hodapp gets a glass

Becker Pinot Noir 2009
Pfalz, Germany

Top wine...full...complex...real juice here...long finish
Points 17.75 but try again next time


Saturday 8 September 2012
We went down to the village to visit the 'wine-fest' ...which takes place at the local co-operative.


Along our 'nature' path to visit the ducks....

The weather was fine...and we could eat out on the terrace....a repeat drink of the
F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd

Sunday 9 September 2012

Down to breakfast on the terrace for breakfast...and gave the staff some presents...they would not be there next day when we were to leave.

I am a soccer fan...and when I am here...try to catch a match. Kappelrodeck-Waldulm had a home game in the beautifully situated Stadium.
It was very hot...but I found a bench under a tree...ate a Curry-Würst...and watched the home team win 6-0.

Out onto the terrace again...and a 'Filet vom Waller unter der Meerettichekruste' turned out to be delicious.

I dediced to venture over the border for the wine.
Chateau du Nozet Pouilly Fume
Baron de L 2006
Loire, France

Cream... reserved goosberry aroma...French elegance...a nice finish to the holiday
Points 16.5

Monday 10 September 2012
Last time...breakfast on the terrace...Herr Hopapp's wife...Sandra Stark is on duty as the restaurant is closed for the day. The 'Junior' boss...Bastian...helps out...the future is assured. It is always hard to leave...but as the saying have to leave before you can go back.