Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Grüner Veltliner

The 6-packs from a previous post included one with Austrian Wines. The main reason I started the package was to try some of Austria's Grüner Veltliner. Not sure if Joe included it in his obscure grape tastings..if not..I will accommodate here. After all the Rieslings over the summer..I craved for an alternative.
Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner
Federspiel Kreutles 2007 Wachau, Austria
Don't you just love the old style label......
GV's always have a touch of smoke..and here it is very evident..very
attractive...yellow apple smell..a 'warm' spiciness with reserved acidity.. 12.5 Alcohol...this is full without being 'full'..and dry without being 'dry'..if you see what I mean. Do I detect a taste of bananas or am I going bananas? Plenty of character and a thoroughly enjoyable bottle...what appealed to me personally..was the unobtrusive acidity. I tried the rest next day with a medium horseradish sauce..it held up very well.
Points 16.5

Monday, October 20, 2008

Barry's Six Pack

Mention a 6-pack to any guy under 30 and he will think of his stomach muscles...which if you are fit..look like 6-pack of beer cans. My 6-packs are of the bottle size...not my stomach...that is still flat...but my wine orders. I love ordering a selection of individual bottles to be tried and tasted.
Three such are on their way.....no way back..if they are bad..down to me. Maybe someone has already tried one.
Spain
Emilio Rojo Blanco 2005 Ribeiro
Chivite 125 Aniversario Chardonnay 2005 Navarra
Pétalos del Bierzo 2006 Bierzo
Corullón 2004 ½ bottle Bierzo
Mauro 2005 Ribera del Duero
La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904 1995 Rioja

Austria
Umathum St.Laurent vom Stein 2001 Neusiedlersee
Umathum St.Laurent vom Stein 2002 Neusiedlersee
Schloss Halbturn Pinot Noir 2005 Neusiedlersee
Velich Darsch Chardonnay 2006 Neusiedlersee
Jamek Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Stein am Rhein 2007 Wachau
Knoll Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Kreutles 2007 Wachau

Germany
Jakob Sebastian Heimersheimer Berg Spätburgunder 2006 Ahr
Jakob Sebastian Ahrweiler Daubhaus Spätburgunder Spätlese 2006 Ahr
Jakob Sebastian Heimersheimer Berg Alte Reben Spätburgunder Spätlese 2006 Ahr
Zehnthof Luckert Maustal Spätburgunder trocken 2007 Franken
Zehnthof Luckert Spätburgunder *** Auslese trocken 2004 Franken
Jakob Kühn 'PurPur' Spätburgunder 2004 Rheingau

Mozart & I















Another 'hobby' of mine is...my DJ-ing at a radio station. On Sunday 19th October I did my 250th show..covering 10 years. Certainly the oldest show in Germany for soul music. Nobody is allowed in the studio when I do the show...the blinds are down..a small light is on..the headset in place..and away I go..my own little world. I have listeners all over the world..from Sydney to Los Angeles. The newspapers ran an article about little 'ol me...Playlist and links to 'German' reports
HERE
What's it got to do with wine?...well...250 is a hell of a lot..and the studio gave me a bottle of wine...nice.... A special bottling I was told..and 'biologique'
Marie-Paule Roux Mozart 2005

Corbieres, France

Hopefully a soulful bottle of wine and....before any comments arrive...there is no resemblance....

The Right Brew

A cellar quite full...even though the days of mass buying have been curtailed...and I sometimes stand there and search...too young, too old, had that recently..blah blah blah...
What do I do...get in the car and take the short drive to my local wine merchant. A 10 minute chat about fruit bombs and Parker points..then Robert recommends a Spanish wine...a Parker favourite..OUCH....but..he assures me it has balance..we will see.
To be fair to Mr Parker..I used to use his points to buy Rhône wines.....but some of the New World ratings are a mystery to me...me being a gentle soul who wants more than a fruit cake..I need a touch of cream..a light sauce...character..you catch my drift amigos?
Castell del Remei Gotim Bru 2005
Costers del Segre, Spain
The new style Spanish wines I have been a fan of since before they became famous....the grainy tannins attracted me..and so it is here. Cherry fruit up front...liquorice sticks ( a childhood memory)...soft..grainy tannins (just in case you missed the initial comment)...very well-balanced. High portion of Tempranillo..with some Cabernet, Merlot & Garnacha...this could have meant a jammy wine...but this is well made and has fine structure..good acidity..spicy finish.
Bottom of the range in price...I read somewhere that one critic said this was more Australian than Spanish...not true in my mind....
Points 16.5..and excellent value

Friday, October 17, 2008

Ziereisen's Jaspis

The wine area of Baden stretches further south than most people realise...
Ziereisen's Weingut is a slow jog from the Swiss
border..and he 'appeared' a few years ago with some fine wines.There is a 'Rhini' Spätburgunder which I have had from various vintages......
and this 'Jaspis'
Ziereisen Jaspis Pinot Noir
Alte Reben 2004
Baden, Germany

Dark berry and cherries..some smoke...rich & deep flavoured..meaty...like thick slices of strawberries...fiery & spicy still..lots of power.
100% new oak used..The vines are 45 years old and the wine spends 22 months in oak.....and Hans-Peter Ziereisen's top wines need time. Strange..this bottle seemed to show dryness after an hour..and didn't improve next day. Maybe a one-off...or a closed period before showing well later. We will see...still 2 bottles to go.
Points 17.25...

Monday, October 13, 2008

Sleek, Slank and Still Sexy

Baden-Württemberg is the 'county' in Germany. The wine areas are however, seperate. I recently asked a restaurant owner in Baden if he had any wines from Württemberg on his winelist. He didn't exactly snarl...but a quick shake of the head..and as I laughed...there followed from him a wry smile.
'They may have good wines..but'....
Easy to finish the sentence. This could also take place in Beaune...ask a Burgundian restauranteur if he has a good Bordeaux list..then try to get out alive.
The 'but' in question is followed by 'we have enough good wines here in Baden..why should we look elsewhere in Germany'. No doubt the situation happens in Württemberg. Both areas proud of their OWN wines.
Not far apart from each other..the styles are, however, slightly different.
Wöhrwag Pinot Noir 2005
Württemberg, Germany
Cherry, raspberry nose...very attractive and not negative..was a burnt wood aroma...beguiling smell. The taste is even more intense...a georgeous 'juice' gets the tongue rolling round the palate. As I mentioned..these wines have a style of their own..sleeker is maybe the right word...and soft dusty tannins just add to it's charm.
Points 17.5

Bad Week for Christmann


















Regular readers will know I purchased a fair amount 2007 Rieslings from the excellent 2007 here in Germany. Most have disappeared..but a couple of bottles are still with me.The reason is..well..acidity. My guess was the style would give me problems when young...I have admitted regularly that, even after 30 years of tasting wines, a young, acidic Riesling is not on my Xmas list!!!!...and so it was...maybe on a bad day for me..that I decided to, at last, open one of them.

A. Christmann Riesling 2007
Pfalz, Germany
Deeper yellow than most...dry peach aroma...some herbal tones..the acidity may be OK for some...but at the moment....not my friend. Tried again the next day..it had filled out a little mid-palate...but The Acid Queen was still glaring at me....
Points 15
It's not been a good week for Christmann..the Spätburgunder a couple of days ago didn't impress either.

Thursday, October 09, 2008

Pinot Tasting

And so to the promised tasting..we were to be 5.....Volker & Steffi, Robert, myself..and Axel....but poor old Axel had a migrane the day before..and was advised not to drink. If I was told not to drink wine..I would get a headache as well! The planned free-roaming chicken for the main course..was a bit whiffy..so lamb was obtained at the last minute. All the above happened before I arrived....
A salad with beef carpaccio was served with a white...we had to guess...certainly Sauvignon Blanc..can't imagine this being New Zeeland....smoky...medium fruit..reserved gooseberry...not overdone and a good length. If only all SB's were this well-balanced.
Points 16.5
The bottle was produced...
Eichholz Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Jenins, Graubünden, Switzerland
..and I mentioned I had had the Pinot Noir not long ago. This is a very good grower...Irene Grünenfelder..in Switzerland.
On doing this posting..I realised I had also tried the 2006 of this wine.


We then received a list of the 4 Pinot Noir wines we would be tasting...

Eichholz Irene Grünenfelder Pinot Noir 2006
Jenins, Graubünden, Switzerland

Domaine Gros Frere et Soeur 2006
Premier Cru Les Chaumes
Vosne-Romanee, Burgundy, France

Weingut Christmann Spätburgunder 2005
Grosses Gewächs IDIG
Gimmeldingen, Pfalz, Germany

Gesellmann Pinot Noir SIGLOS 2005
Mittelburgenland, Austria

The wines had been decanted and the order changed.....so we not only had to comment and mark...but try to nail down the correct area. The wines were tasted with the food..and alone later..













Wine A
Gesellmann Pinot Noir SIGLOS 2005
Mittelburgenland, Austria
Light-medium with pale rim...clear aroma, sweet berry..cinnamon and marzipan...developed in the glass..fresh cherries..elegant, soft tannins..spicy back palate..very good
Points 17.25 Group Points 17
I thought this was the Swiss wine....







Wine B
Eichholz Irene Grünenfelder Pinot Noir 2006
Jenins, Graubünden, Switzerland
Colour more gradual..cherry red.....soft, sour cherry sprang from the glass..some toffee..a little coffee..well-integrated attractive acidity keeping this lively..a touch of eucalyptus..then the grip of soft tannins...very nicely packaged..a real pleasure and will age well over the next 7-8 years.
Points 17.75 Group Points 17.7
I thought this was the the German wine..due mainly maybe to the previous day's wine...Knipser from the Pfalz.
as stated above..I had this in July..and marked it better here...as I said..will improve



Wine C
Domaine Gros Frere et Soeur 2006
Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru Les Chaumes
Vosne-Romanee, Burgundy, France
Quite deep in comparison to the previous wines...good grip..nose of cherry..touch of mushroom..tobaco..some vegetables..acidity quite dominant..tight tannins...a difficult time to appraise this wine..but the components are all there..and a constant changing as it developed in the glass.
Points 17 at the moment.... Group Points 17.25
try this in 5 years and it will probably be the winner
No problem guessing this was the French wine....




Wine D
Weingut Christmann Spätburgunder 2005
Grosses Gewächs IDIG
Gimmeldingen, Pfalz, Germany
Pale rimmed....we all thought this must be the Austrian...influenced as well by knowing the price. Sweet..maybe contrived..strawberry smell..this probably suffered after the three previous wines having more character and depth. Fresh acidity..not a bad wine by any means..just a little 'lightweight' alongside it's cousins
Points 16 Group Points 16
maybe if we had drank this on it's own..it would have faired better.
W
e guessed this to be the Austrian.



We all marked pretty much the same..and all thought the order as I did. The French was a certainty. The surprise came when the Austrian was revealed..costing half of the Swiss and German wines and a quarter of the Burgundy. I must admit...I was surprised.
The total points winner was the Swiss wine........

Finished?...no chance..with a dessert..we were served a half bottle of...
Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr 2007
Riesling Auslese
Mosel, Germany
A dessert wine..but with only 7.5% alcohol..so no 'sweetie' in that respect. There is lively acidity hitting back the rich fruit balls thrown at it. Aromas of quince..exotic smells..very juicy...and a whole heap of minerals...you can down this easily before you know it...this is what the German growers are expert at...perfect Restsüsse.
Points 17.25......others marked slightly higher....maybe my cigar was distracting me.
A great evening....

Wednesday, October 08, 2008

Setting The Standard

I have been invited by friends to a tasting in a couple od days...theme Pinot Noir/Spätburgunder..so I thought I'd better try one to remind me how the grape tastes (it's been a few days since my last one..and the memory is poor..that's my excuse and I'm sticking with it).
Taking the last bottle of any good wine from a cellar...and thinking it will soon be kicking up the daisies in wine heaven..is hard..but not that hard..so another one bites the dust.
This was one of the first top wines I bought after discovering years ago that the reds in Germany could be the next big thing. They may still be......

Knipser Großkarlbacher Burgweg
Spätburgunder
Auslese Trocken 2003
Pfalz, Germany

A cross between Bordeaux and Burgundy was the first impression after opening....Knipser produces a dryer style...but over the next 10 minutes there were different layers..constant changes of aroma....dark berry fruit..cream..touch of velvet on the palate..but keeping it's dry style...still plenty of grip...good soft tannin structure...so well balanced in this hot vintage year...long finish. Still with enough power to show well the next day.
Points 17.75

Can the guys equal this at the tasting?.....

Monday, October 06, 2008

Rouge et Blanc

Fish for dinner..with beetroot
and potato salad..is it only
here in Germany..but beetroot
is very 'in'..
not very photogenic though!!!

Blanc de Roc d'Anglade 2005
Remy Pedrano,
Anglade, France
Back in the days...the choices were over-oaked Chardonnay or teeth-breaking acidic Rieslings. Thankfully those days are 'almost' over. I tended to look to South France..and the quality there has increased..reds of course..but there are some interesting whites..with real character.This is a vineyard near to Nimes...Chenin Blanc (grape grown mainly in the Loire) & Grenache Blanc..

















It spends it's youth in used oak barrels..and I should really leave it a while..but...

This has taken big steps since I last tried it..even after opening..very classy...
medium yellow..loads of stone & mineral aromas.. quite full-bodied...soft acidity with the gentle fruit of the Chenin Blanc...soft texture with a freshness...lovely long finish..plenty of character....decant if you have time...I drank the rest next day..as I said..needs airing..delicious..leave it alone Barry...this will get even better.
Points 17 .25

Bernard Gripa St Jospeh Rouge 2005
Rhone, France
Sweet, plush, forward fruit..
finesse....easy, supple & soft..I would like a bit more bite though..a touch more grip...don't wanna fall asleep while drinking my reds...
Points 16

Sunday, October 05, 2008

Back To The Roots......Again

Twice a year we go to the same place for a short holiday...boring you say..well...wash your mouth out with soap & water. I need short breaks..and as soon as I enter our room and look out from the balcony..I am at 'home'. I know the food will be excellent..and the wine-list is full of treasures. As I said...soap & water...
The view I spoke of......see what I mean?













Work in the vineyards never stops











The wonderful panorama....and two 'new' members of the community
.












Tuesday 23 September 2008

Try not to drink too much SB was my motto for the week (half succeeded)...so I ventured to Italy...a fine vintage...
Barbera d'Asti Quorum 2003
Piedmont, Italy
Medium deep colour..ruby-red.....strawberry & blueberry aromas...soft...but good backbone..touch of treacle and truffle....good finish...compact..with elegance.
Behind this consortium are 6 growers..Berta, Braida, Chiarlo, Coppo, Prunotto, & Vietti.
Points 17

















Wednesday 24 September 2008
Huber Spätburgunder Wildenstein 2005
Baden, Germany
In May I had tried the 2004...not my favourite vintage..but that had sold out...maybe I had drank the last bottle...and I was pleased to see this 2005 on the list. Classic colour...slightly pale rimmed..elegant for a Huber wine..much more approachable...soft peppery..compact strawberry..excellent balance already...touch of the marzipan fruit I find in top Spätburgunder...dry tight tannins...
Points 18

















Thursday 25 September 2008
Umathum Ried Hallebühl 2003
Burgenland, Austria
Deep, dark garnet colour...rich fruit..peppery and a little chunky...airing helped...spicy..cherries, dark berries and some cocoa...very good food wine....and well-balanced.
This is the Zweigelt grape...and like many Austrian wines...not trying to copy..with a style of it's own.
Points 17.5















Friday 26 September 2008

A surprise for my wife...our daughter arrived with her 'hubby'..we had planned it..Eva had no idea...thought I'd mention this..before someone asks how I drank 3 wines this evening
F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd trocken Steinertal 2004
Wachau, Austria
A small valley section on the eastern end of the Wachau, located at the foot of the Loibner Berg and composed of deeply deposited primitive rock.
Concentrated citrus fruits..intense..a touch of grapefruit maybe...heaps of minerals flood from the glass..complex...needs more air than it maybe got...peach tones..and again..grapefruit..lichees...long finish
Points 17.5..with airing..maybe worth more..and will develope beautifully
Pichler's top Riesling 'Unendlich'..was also on the wine list..it has found it's way into my cellar as a thank-you present from my wife...















As I just wanted to relax..and drink a couple of favourites...two wines drank here before..
R & C Schneider Spätburgunder 2005
'Parzelle Schönenberg'
Baden, Germany

Tried this in May 2008 and it was still as impressive. My wife and daughter were chatting intensely...and my daughter sipped this without paying attention..kids.. I tell ya...
anyway..she was stopped in her tracks..and left the chat and said..'wow'...this is good...she just about saved herself...

Points 18.25













Salwey Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken***
Oberrotweiler Kirchberg 2003

Baden, Germany
Had this 2 times already..last time in March 2007...and I needed something to balance out the previous wine....this almost made it...although 2003 was a real hotty..Salway is a master..and the fruit is beautifully integrated with the hot vintage firm tannins.
Points 18














Saturday 27 September 2008
Kopp Spätburgunder 2003
Baden, Germany
Not sure what to drink..so went down in the cellar with Herr Hodapp...
Decided on the 2005....the 2003 had been on offer a year ago...and as it sometimes
goes...a member of staff went to the bin..pulled out a Kopp...there were maybe 20 in there..and this 'leftover' was opened and ready to try when I arrived at the table.
After the first taste I thought..a bit 'hot' for 2005....after a few more sips I checked the label..2003..which explained the heat....the Salway is beautifully balanced in 2003...but this one, although OK, was a bit laden with the burnt fruit style...
Points 16














Sunday 28 September 2008
After a stroll..and a salad lunch on the terrace..we went to the local village football(soccer) field..which has a grass bank at the side...a view to die for..and a thouroughly enjoyable game..with the usual red card..a few yellow ones...light abuse for the referee..and 'friendly' banter between supporters. My wife loved it..although she is not a football nut like me...and when the game became uninteressing for her..she counted the men with bald heads..and the women with wide butts....Waldulm won 1-0...down to a mistake by the opposition goalkeeper.
Yacachuya 2003
Cafayete, Argentina
I almost took the Schneider again..as it is so good...but I thought of the blog..and there lies the blame. This is a Michel Rolland 'wine'..he who travels the world giving advice.....highly rated area of Argentina...100% Malbec from 60-year old vines...dark colour..intense fruit...even sweet blackcurrant and a real powerwine..peppery.....one glass...and I recorked it...and took it home.
The next evening..with 24 hours airing..still not for me....no way a bad wine..just a tasting prize winner...not for me alone at a dinner table....keep travelling Monsieur Rolland....
Points 16.5..more in 10 years...or if you like the style...
PS...the Scheider was ordered and some relief was attained.














Here..two videos for your pleasure...if the film link does not work...click on Video One & Video Two.
VIDEO ONE:
The owner of the Rebstock Inn is Karl Hodapp. He kindly invited me to join him on a stroll through the vineyards. He owns the best plot in Waldulm..Pfarrberg. German speakers will understand everything...others..well..he explains how 2008 had rain in April..thus leaving some grapes with mildew..and parts not too healthy..and needing constant snipping...meaning less on the vine...but better quality..there are 120 smaller growers in Waldum..............and nearly all sell on to the local Co-Op (Winzergenossenschaft).Some growers may well have more weight in grapes when they deliver..but those who take care..will have the better quality. Also..he showed me a grape they use to make the colour better..'Färb Trauben..roughly means 'coloured grape'.They add a very small quantity.
Also..an oddity...a couple of 'Ruländer'(Pinot Gris) vines right in the middle of all the Spätburgunder. Down to a mishap years ago by the planter.


VIDEO TWO:

Starts out with the Inn..then a walk around the beautiful countryside..a scary wind high on the hill and a visit to the Winzergenossenschaft in Waldulm.