Saturday, March 21, 2009

Birthday Burgunders

As I had a birthday..I decided to hold a comparative tasting of 2006 Spätburgunder wines from Germany...all from the 2006 Vintage. They are 60 years younger than the birthday boy (which should make it easy to calculate my age..although nowadays TOO many folk need a gadget to add up....whatever happened to that organ between the ears?).....anyway..your 49-year old Blogger chose 4 different areas...the wines from the lower to middle price a strange coincident (it had to Birthday always falls at the same time)..Lyle, a fellow blogger had been at a tasting..where the 1st and last flights had been excellent..but he had been disappointed by the middle flight of a range of Germany wines. My 4 would have wiped the floor with them. There are some excellent wines and values for this type of Spätburgunder..but, of course, they are not available to those across the waters.
As a starter with Calamares and Gambas...a real gem of an Sauvignon Blanc.
Kuhn Sauvignon Blanc
Mandelpfad trocken 2007

Pfalz, Germany
Green fruit aroma..and some Kiwi..and almons..a trace of gooseberry..but 'my type'...I am not a lover of the overdone type of Sauvignon it became intense..sweet melons and ended with a lingering finish..this was very good..and at € 12,--..a real snip
Points 17.25

Except for a few growers..Rheinhessen was never really known for good wines..but that is all changing. The property Kühling-Gillot is one of the up & coming ones..founded in it's prese& Gabi Kühling..and since 2002..has been run by daughter Caroline..along with her husband Hans Oliver Spanier..

Kühling-Gillot Spätburgunder trocken 2006
Rheinhessen, Germany
Pale smell of soft marzipan..enticing red fruits...agreeable burnt it opened..there was cream..ripe fruits...not a BIG wine..this costs € 10,--
and it's worth every cent...a great start to the tasting
Points 16.5

Jacob Duijn used to be a 'sommelier'..he worked for the top cook Eckart Witzigmann in Munich..and he is from Holland..and was rated highly in Baden...but the recent vintages 2004 & 2005 were maybe not up to standard. However, with 2006, everything seems to be back in order. Duijn produces only Pinot Noir..and they all spend time in new oak barrels.
Duijn Alsenhof
Spätburgunder trocken 2006

Baden, Germany
Good red colour..more serious..
aroma of raspberry fruit..bitter almonds..
nicely integrated oak..

this needed a little time in the glass..
then showed character and depth.
Points 16.75

The wines from Rudolf Fürst do make it abroad...his top wines are available..but highly priced. His 'R' Spät & Frühburgunder wines are not to be missed...but I chose his 'simpler' Centgrafenberg...of which the 2006 was better that 2005.

Fürst Spätburgunder Centgrafenberg 2006

Franken, Germany
Centgrafenberg’s success derives from its limestone soil (similar to parts of Burgundy) and its south-facing slopes, enabling the vines to soak up the maximum heat from Franken’s hot, dry summers. Always intriguiging comparing areas like this..Franken..of course.. has another style..and this was aged in mostly French oak..40% of which is new..for 16 months..soft spices..and the appeal of marzipan and sour cherry..fine balance and freshness..elegant..
Points 17

The final wine is a Grosses Gewächs (First Growth)...and from the property we started to a fascinating evening.
Kuhn Mandelberg Spätburgunder 2006
Pfalz, Germany
At € 25,--and the most expensive wine of the flight..but here is real class...perfect..just perfect...medium deep colour...thick fruit on the nose..dark berries..cream..and this followed onto the palate..a light peppery touch..perfect balance....mmmm....tasty.
Points 17.75

Back youngest daughter presented me with a 'birthday cake'...


Edward said...


Best wishes and congratulations, I'll think of you as I open a bottle of Barossa Shiraz tonight!

Lyle Fass said...

Alwasy drinking the cutting edge stuff. Wish they got it over here like you seem to have there.

Lyle Fass said...

Also here is a note an an 05 Furst Fruhburgunder.

2005 Fruhburgunder Centgrafenberg "R" - An incredible nose here with cooling blueberry fruit and some exotic berry fruit. The palate had incredibly intense sweet fruit with a velvety texture and an incredibly long finish. This is first class stuff and I see why Paul serves it after the other wines as it truly is compelling and a great counterpoint to the Pinot's. The balance and purity here are breathtaking. The tannins are fine, sweet and very grainy.

Barry said...

Lyle..your notes reminds me of the 2005 'R' Spätburgunder I tasted last year...compelling...the Frühburgunder sells for more here....

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