Sunday, September 14, 2008

An Obscure Grape, Lemberger

As Joe is trying obscure grapes...how about this one...which he will have difficulty getting hold of...
Think Germany..think Red...and you think..Spätburgunder. In the Baden part of Baden-Württemberg it is the red wine grape...but travel north to Württemberg...you will find a grape, that only in Austria, produces wine of the same quality. We are talking about 'Lemberger'..know as 'Blaufränkisch' in the aforementioned country. It is a late-ripener..and probably originated in the lower stretches of the river Danube. Rainer Wachstetter has impressively underlined his position as a red wine specialist. His barrique-matured range “Ernst Combé' (named after his grandfather, and founder of the winery) is of a high standard across the board. There is no doubt that he is currently the best all-rounder of the winemakers under the title of “Junges Schwaben” (Young Swabia). In Pfaffenhofen the climate is perfect for the Lemberger.
Rainer Wachstetter 'Ernst Combe'
Lemberger trocken 2006

Württemberg, Germany

Dark cherry colour...smoke...as in 'burnt'..some dry cherry on the nose..no...it is more wild berries...it says trocken on the label..and it is...but this is the style...and the fine juicy fruit balances it all perfectly...plenty of lively acidity..again..the slightly burnt touch..does it sound strange?...dry and tannic does not....but it's all laid-back...and very attractive..and keeps you going back for more...the weight is OK as well..13%...there is some oak in there...compott fruit..spicy...good delicious finish. This reminds me in style of the Loire reds....maybe an acquired taste but most certainly something to explore.
Points 17

1 comment:

Joe said...

You are right, Barry, no Blaufränkisch/Lemberger here - high score for an obscure varietal...