Pasta, Pur and Vorgrimmler

The last 10 days...staff on holiday...cars in and out of the repair shop...and the business filling every day...it has meant dashing down into the cellar at the last moment. No real preparation barring the one time we had guests. Just hoping for a liquid payment for the daily stress.

Fred Loimer Grüner Veltiner
Langenlois Spiegel Reserve 2009
Kamptal, Austria
Medium green-yellow....apple fruit on the nose...and with a few hours this softened to show pears and cream. Developed even more yellow fruit over a longer period. Infantile to drink now...but needs must on the last warm evening of a beautiful autumn.
Points 17







Weingut Schlör Spätburgunder
Barrique 'R 2008
Baden, Germany
After the pleasure of this property's basic 2008...this was more aloof...not ready to show itself...like a shy girl hiding behind the curtain. Young puppy fat and a fine dose of tannins means the second bottle remains untouched for a few years.
Points 16.5






Enderle & Moll
Spätburgunder Villages 2009
Baden, Germany
After the recent Muschelkalk 2009...which was very good...this was a slight disappointment. Not very 2009 at all...brawny...spiky fruit...and dry tannins... not sexy at all...so hope the second bottle will reveal more in a year or two. Points 16








Vorgrimmler
Spätburgunder 'SR' 2007
Baden, Germany
This I found on a merchant's list when tracking another wine. Good reports..so I ordered two bottles. A visit from my god child with her parents and we finished off the Schlurr which was still covering it's face and I opened the new find. Intriguing nose...raspberry...smoke...and then I thought of a drink from back in my youth...Ribena...same smell. I remember a wine from the south of France...back in the 80's...Chateau Vignalaure...which also had this enticing blackberry aroma. Our dinner guests were very impressed...and we sniffed and sniffed. A trace of vanilla and some nicely balanced tannins... and a light style(13% alcohol). A real treat....recommended. The price on the Merchant's list(N & M Wines in Mönchengladbach) was € 19,-- but the invoice arrived and I had only been charged € 15,- I inquired why (honest that I am) and was told they were now 'Restposten'...bin-ends.
Points 16.75




Weingut Konstanzer Pur 2009
Baden, Germany
I recently recommended this property to friends and ordered a few cases. Herr Konstanzer kindly popped this bottle in for free as a thank you. I had to ask him for information as it is nowhere to be found. His reply:
Die Trauben für die Spätburgunder Spätlese -pur- stammen aus einem Ertragreduzierten (ca. 30 hl/ha) Weinberg im Winklerberg Die Trauben wurden voll reif gelesen mit 106° Oe. kaltmazeriert (5 Tg) und Spontan angegoren. Maischestandzeit 19 Tage , Lagerung nur in neuen Barriques 20 Monate. Im Juli 2011 abgefüllt Ohne Filtration und Pumpe (Falldruck). Wie schon der Name sagt " pur " keine Technik od. sonstige Geschichen angewendet.
And so to the wine....just a delicious glass full...and just what the 2009's should be offering you. Pure...as it says...Pinot Noir...silky, soft, but not a pushover...plenty of backbone...this will give pleasure from day one and over the next five years. Recommended.
Price by the way...€ 22.50,--
Points..by the way 16.75


Some delicious Pasta...which I had for dinner three nights running.
Needs must...but no complaints from myself.
Yummy!

Top Baden Pinot

My wife and I and friends Volker and Steffi at our local Bistro Mitch. Layla, the owner, is a fine host....and the food is always enjoyable. Volker and Steffi were off to Madeira next morning so needed some German wines before their holiday.
Corkage is reasonable...and there is a good atmosphere.








I had brought the bottles in the morning.....and the white was popped into the fridge having been opened.
I knew it needed airing as the previous time I had tasted over two days and the difference had be noticeable.

Bassermann Jordan
Riesling Auf der Mauer 2007
Pfalz, Germany
Full aroma of yellow fruits...the smell of petroleum hovering...broad structure...acidity within my health limit...layers of fruit on the palate...lovely weight...but keeping it's dry mineral style...some honey...slightly creamy...very good finish.
The last bottle...and at € 15,-- back then...even more of a bargain for the quality.
Points 17.25





The two reds were opened at 10am and left to air in the bottle.
I asked Volker to pour into the large glasses while I left the table so that I could appraise them not knowing which was which.
We sniffed at each glass...and went back again..and again...and it was like watching a tennis match as we took in the intriguing aromas of both. This was going to be a real pleasure...and it was five minutes before we took the next step of sipping.

Enderle & Moll
Spätburgunder Muschelkalk 2009
Baden, Germany
This new property was founded in 2007 in Münchweier in the Ortenau area of Baden...and I only found out about it after returning from my vacation in August.
Some of the vines date back to 1953. The wines gets to spend time in used barrels from top Burgundy estates Domaines Jayer-Gilles and Dujac.
Creamy vanilla aroma developed into a quite strong smell of eucalyptus...in fact the wine as a whole was herby with leather tones and some nougat toffee. Earthy when compared to the Waßmer....the tannins gentle and dry...and a nice weight to it...12.5% which really is seldom.
The colour became more milky as the evening wore on...and I would tend to give this a lot less airing that I did here...that's not to say it suffered...but just that the wine does not need that much fresh air.
Points 17.25
Fritz Wassmer
Spätburgunder XXL 2009
Baden, Germany
While never having tasted anything from the previous property...it was easy to decide that this was the Waßmer. Previous vintages I have found the wine top heavy with oak...
but Fritz Waßmer has learned with every vintage...and has reached his destination of making a 'Burgundy' wine in Baden.
A brownish rim would make you think a little older... the strong raspberry aroma filled the glass..and was intoxicating. A complex wine...meaty and juicy all in one...and a lovely mouthful...well integrated oak...and a glass full of delicious Pinot here...and this got better in the glass...so the 12 hours start did it no harm. Only bought 3 bottles of this...and I could gladly drink this once a week....
Points 18

A Week In The Life Of A Juice Junkie!

The week in the life of a wine freak / fan / aficionado. Call me what you will...even a juice junkie!
A Monday evening...and I was expecting a visit from David Stephensen...a fellow Spätburgunder lover....over in Germany on holiday...packing the car with the wine and visiting friends. He took my advice and visited the Gasthof Rebstock in Waldulm and stayed 3 days. His favourite wine one evening had been Gantenbein 2007...the cult wine from Switzerland. We had never met...and he called when he arrived at the railway station...and I was on my bike and found him and we were off to the local Bistro. Two bottles had been deposited at midday and I had covered them up.

Willi Sattler
Sauvignon Blanc Privat 2006
South Styria, Austria
He got South Styria correct but was thinking Chardonnay...and it is hardly surprising....as my recent notes stated: This is not so much your 'green green grass' SB...more a soft butterball, If I had tasted this blind I would have been uncertain at first. Super complex aroma of exotic fruit...with a gentle creaminess. As it opens only then do you get a shot of the grape's natural character. A super length of flavour and I was putting this in the top 10 SB's that I have ever tried. Judge it as white wine maybe and not as a typical Sauvignon Blanc...but whatever you do...get to try it!
Points 18

The red was to be a surprise. I had purchased 6 bottles of the Gantenbein Pinot Noir 2005 and 4 had already gone to the great lake...and had been delicious. So...surprise him with the 2005...or that was the plan. Nada...cork...just a whiff...but no way could you force yourself to enjoy it. To quote a good old English saying... 'ON YA BIKE MATE'....and within 7 minutes I was back from my wine cellar with a substitute.




Meyer-Nakel Spätburgunder S 2005
Ahr, Germany
We were chatting away...so I hardly made any notes...but David sent an email to say it hit the spot. A nice evening and I left David at the station to head off back to Frankfurt. He told me later he had gotten into a conversation with a guy on the train about whether Irish Whiskey or Scottish Whisky were the best. As David is from Edinburgh... I'm sure he put over his point!




September is Pumpkin month...here is one we brought back from Baden...and I love the soup my wife makes...with a few chilis in there...I eat it for days...well...there is enough there!






Wenzel Kleiner Wald
Pinot Noir 2007
Neusiedlersee, Austria
This is a new property in Austria...the first vintage was 2004...and does not yet even appear in the Falstaff Wine Guide.. Aromatic spices and sweet tannins...like a Cote de Beaune if you are into French Pinot. Work meant I made no other notes
Points 16.25







The evenings are getting shorter...but September has been gorgeous. What a sunset!









Lackner-Tinnacher
Sauvignon Blanc Welles STK 2008
South Styria, Austria
Gooseberry confit with some pineapple....and remember...a year ago I would not have touched a SB after all the cat's pee I had been offered. These South Styria wines are another level though...where were we?..ah yes...blood oranges...like as silky snake slithering down the gullet...
Points 17.5






Erwin Sabathi Sauvignon Blanc
Pössnitzberg Limited 111 2008
South Styria, Austria
WOW!...get used to this. What an aroma...WOW. Cassis and top class gooseberries with a touch of lychees. Like inhaling Cleopatra's bath water. And what a mouthful...WOW! After all that...you would expect a fruit bomb maybe...nope...this is elegant classy fruit...tropical with a dash of citrus... a hedonistic juice....and I can't say any more than... I give it
Points 18.25
I bought some more...and will 'maybe' let it lie....only maybe

Baden Miles Apart

I am trying to taste / try every German property producing (good) Spätburgunder...and if I made a list of Baden...there would be very few that have not passed my lips over the last few years. On my recent trip...Rebstock owner Karl Hodapp had mentioned Bimmerle...in nearby Renchen. The wine was on his list. I drove past the property...did not visit...but a couple of days later at a local Supermarket...as I hate to leave any place without a bottle( smile)... I purchased a Bimmerle wine..the basic Spätburgunder 2009. My 'goodbye' present from Karl, however, was the wine tasted here.
Siegbert Bimmerle
Spätburgunder trocken Holzfass 2009
Baden, Germany
My guess is that quite a few properties will take a step forward with the very rewarding 2009 vintage. This was a gold medal winner...which..as a warning anywhere...says you are only as good as the competition. However...the competition in Baden is strong...so any prize winner is worth taking notice of. A delicate aroma...and with soft, sweet fruit. You say sweet fruit to some drinkers and they cringe...thinking...I want it dry...but that is what it is...but you can't stop a ripe vintage showing it's best side. This filled out with some airing...spicy..a good bite...and certainly easy to drink.
Points 16

The next wine would fool you tasted blind....not your typical Badener. But checking the label...and you see Tauberfranken. So...it belongs to Baden but is a whole lot nearer to Würzburg than say...to Freiburg. And it shows in style...

Weingut Schlör
Spätburgunder Barrique 2008
Baden, Germany
Not a property I would then get to visit when in Baden..as this is so way off the beaten track...I just am not going to be ever near the place. Quite by accident...when ordering another wine from a merchant...up popped this one and the top of range version. As a basic wine always shows the craft and knowledge of any property this got my attention at once. More chirpy cherry than strawberry fool...smoke on the nose...and I love the gentle tannins that accompany the medium weighted fruit...and the way it never lost my interest.
Points 16.5

I need to make a list to see what properties I have not tried yet....and there are a few in the cellar which I will try over the next few weeks.
What a lovely obsession!

The Top Konstanzer

Two 'brothers'...an interesting tasting from my new 'find'....










Konstanzer Ihringer Winkleberg Spätburgunder Spätlese Barrique 2008
Baden, Germany
What a fine wine. The oak is layed-back...lingers in the background and draws you into the glass to find traces of almonds and bay leaves. Enticing juicy flavour...mild and natural... very 2008...so terroir plays a role here...and the price only adds to it's plusses.
Points 17.5......€ 20,--


Konstanzer Ihringer Winkleberg Spätburgunder Spätlese Barrique 2009 Baden, Germany
Nose at first reserved....dark berry fruits...much fuller on the palate...I doubt the 2008 ever had this weight...this is a rose waiting to bloom. A few hours in the glass helped...intense richness of this great vintage in Baden...drink the 2008 now and tuck this one away for 2 years
Points 17.25....again...€ 20,--

Vintage 2009 A World Apart

Across the world...2009 is a Pinot Noir vintage. Two wines miles apart....
Craggy Range Te Muna
Pinot Noir 2009
Martinborough, New Zealand
Medium light in colour....instant cherry on the nose...and some raspberry follows...complex...and the youthfulness appeals at the moment...but this will develop with a few years...so a second bottle needs to be left alone.
Although earthy at the moment...satin smooth tannins...a touch of tar...rose petals...violets...difficult to fully appraise fully and be fair...
Points 17.25...but I am maybe being a little mean as we have a very good wine here


And so to another wine purchased on my recent trip to Baden...

Horst and Petra Konstanzer bottled their first wine in 1983, and in the initial stages from then on considered their winery to be a part-time occupation. However, the success of their products encouraged them to take over the operation of their parents in 1989, which had until then supplied grapes to the local co-operative, and to make a full-time job of winemaking from then on. Today they tend 9 hectares of vineyards. A vineyard to watch....









Konstanzer Ihringer Winkleberg
Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken 2009
Baden, Germany
This has more instant appeal...very juicy...but with a good backbone and perfect balance. Full of ripe fruit...these 2009 reds from Baden are going to be essential buys...but back to this one...and as Herr Konstanzer said...a real glass full of wine..
Points 16.75..and a good value at € 15,--

Wachau + Baden = Pleasure

Jamek Grüner Veltliner
Smaragd Ried Achleiten 2009
Wachau, Austria
Green tinges to the medium yellow colour...yellow fruits on the nose...yellow apples...that's enough yellow...quite full...and a touch exotic...and thanked me for the 2 days in the fridge...the aformentioned weight is no problem as it dances over the palate...a terroir wine...Jamek wines always seem to show this...a pleasure to drink.
Points 17.75






Konstanzer Pinot Noir 2008
Baden, Germany
Konstanzer owns vines in the well-known Winklerberg vineyards. He recommended I try this and as the 'basic' wines of any property are a sign what the big boys can do....I took his advice and on opening said 'I Like This'. Why?....just because from start to finish it is a real enjoyable wine. Honest red fruit...fresh and soft and juicy...but with a character that makes you sit up as it only cost € 12,--!!! Smokey and a good soft tannic grip...slips down nicely...looking forward to the top wines that I bought.
Points 16.5

Liquid Wages

I have been back just over a week...and the body is slowly realising it has to work to pay for the wines it is given. Here a few of the 'liquid' wages I have been paid this week.

Schloss Gobelsburg
Grüner Veltliner Lamm 2009
Kamptal, Austria
No way a layed-back wine...this has power...lots of 'up-front' fruit...a little awkward...definite caramel aroma...and some toast...nutty...ripe yellow apples...hidden minerals...which showed better 2 days later. Give this a couple of years and you will be rewarded.
Points 17...with a definite upward tendence.






Gut Nägelsförst Pinot Noir 2005
Baden, Germany
The „Gut Nägelsförst” estate is located in Varnhalt, on the outskirts of Baden-Baden (Ortenau area) in the Baden wine-growing region in Germany. The red wines are all sourced from the Waldulmer Pfarrberg site, which is where our Gasthaus Rebstock is situated....and from the neighbouring Bühlertal valley, which is particularly suited for red wines, as the mountain formation collects the heat. In order to make the most of the tremendous potential of these sites, yields for the top red wines, are kept, where possible, to a level below 20 hectolitres per hectare. The Pinot Noir wines are matured in barriques, mostly of French oak, with 50 to 60% of the barriques being new. The first of many reds I bought on the recent holiday. From the north and there is a more earthy style to it. Dark berry and cherry is what you get from the glass...a touch of oak...cool in character...juicy...cedar...dry smoke..this improved well in the glass...the initial empty middle palate filled with soft strawberry fruit. Will improve surprisingly...
Points 16.5

Off to the local Bistro to meet up with the children... and took along 2 recent buys ...again from Baden. It was going to be a fairly rowdy meeting...we ain't quiet when we meet...so a Bistro who know us is the best place. Good fun was had by all. I don't take any BIG wines along...and the two I chose had both been given 88 points by Gault Millau. If I had the chance...try to compare them.
It turned out to be not that easy...as...as I said...we laugh a lot and wine becomes secondry. Just a few notes I made...and remember...both these wines under € 10,--

Hofgut Consequence
Blauer Burgunder 2008
Baden, Germany
Dry, eathy, spicy...liquorice in the mouth with a nice gentle tannin bite. Perfect Pizza wine or with the kids (all in their 40's) in a Bistro!
Points 16










Hermann Spätburgunder 2008
Baden, Germany
This was softer and more rounded....and really completely different to the above. Maybe not too much going on...was nevertheless real value for money.
Points 16










Alphart Rotgipfler Rodauner
Top Selektion 2009
Thermen Region, Austria
Never had the grape?...me neither. Rotgipfler sounds red...but is a white...and what a white. The nose throws up aromas of pear...and is very Burgundian...bananas, mangoes...very exotic. It spends some time in new oak...and all the above evolves seamlessly onto the palate....compact bundle of minerals rolling around the mouth...salty even......delicious...and always something new to find. Beautiful harmony here. Am I getting to easy to please?...or all my recent white wines just hitting the 'spot?
Points 18....buy this if you see it




Zenhthof Luckert
Grand Noir *** 2007
Franken, Germany
It is what is says on the label....BLACK...and I remembered I had the 2005 a few years ago...and scared a baby when I grinned. This leaves it's colour in the system for 24 hours. A Cuvée of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. This is a BIG wine...meaning complex and not a heavyweight. One thing remains throughout...a coolness. Cassis, of course, dominates the nose.. and there are super layers of dark fruit...dark chocolate...tobacco...and can be enjoyed now, maybe with a juicy steak...but the second bottle will be put away for 5 years.
Points 17.5....more to come