Saturday, August 31, 2013

Rebstock Revisited

REBSTOCK...HERE I COME

Tuesday 27 August 2013
Left home at 10am...only to have to stop after 20 minutes as the car CD player had 'swallowed' a newly burned disc. Finally...after 30 minutes...I was off again...and another disc was being played.
Arrived at the Rebstock at 1 pm...and as they are closed until mid-afternoon...I carried up my luggage...collected my key from the girl in the kitchen...had a brisk walk round the Gasthaus...and at 3 pm went down for a cuppa (cup of tea). Claudi was on duty...and she confirmed her marriage...6 weeks ago...then patted her stomach. `'That was quick' I commented.
As the other regular Bettina...had her baby in January...it made me think the Baden air must be the reason!
I sat out on the terrace...weather still cool...and lit up a cigar. The owner, Karl Hodapp, came out and we sat and chatted. We had emailed about the possibility of drinking some wine together. He always gets a glass of what I choose in the restaurant but if all goes well...on his Monday off...we will drink the two bottles I brought with me.
The first evening...in the restaurant. One is always thinking about going outside...but as the evening cools...and you sit there with your cold red...not really attactive.


As I read the menu...I could not really decide...but then reminded myself...you are here for 2 weeks!
The classic starter at this time of the year...




Pumpkin Soup...Schaumsüppchen vom Muskatkürbis mit Haselnusskracherleund Kürbiskernplätchen
This was followed by the...
aus dem Ofen: gegüllte Wachtel (entbeint mit eine Fülle aus Apfel
Gänseleber und Blutwürst) angerichtet auf Traubenwirsing mit Kartoffelplätchen...the reason being...I have known it to disappear from the list...just when I was going to choose it. It was the best one I have tasted here....so tender and the 'Bloodwurst and Gänselber' the perfect filling.
So many whites...so many reds....but before leaving home...I had already decided on a few wines to drink.



Holger Koch Pinot Noir Reserve 2009
Baden, Germany

Pale rim...roasted aroma...earthy...wild red berry fruit...still developing.
The palate with much more interest. After 30 minutes you had a lovely silky flavour...
nicely spread out...no edges...and while it may seem forwaard...there is a thumping backbone that makes you sit up and take this one very seriously.
Strangely...I have only had a few basic wines from this property...but this one will get me searching for more.
Points 17.5  and with potential


Wednesday 28 August 2013
Breakfast at 10am...hey...I am on holiday. No phones...no emails...no decisons to make.




Grapes...check photo on last day
Clouds still hanging over the vineyards...but that can change.
Spent some time trying to get the W-Lan connection. Nothing in my roon on third floor...and 'nada' on the terrace. First table in the restaurant and all the other rooms is where you gotta be.


A Cocktail...Kiwi, Pfirsich(Peach), Apfel(Apple) und Spinat(Spinach)...
the last just adding the colour. Very healthy...




A light lunch of Münsterrösti with Matjes and Gurkensalat...and an alcohol free cocktail...the green being Spinach. Then a cigar and some Raspberry cake...just been made... I had the first piece.
Hardly had a rest...so I was down in the restaurant before I knew it.



Starter...a small portion of Zander.
Gebratenes Zander mit etwas Spitzkraut-Kurbis-Gemüse,
dazu Kartoffel-Frishkäse-Maultasche mit Zitronenthymian
Main Course...
Kotelette von Milchkalbsrücken mit gebratenem Gänseleber,
mit etwas Herbstgemüse und Grünkernplätzen.
The red was one I had eye-balled on seeing the wine-list a few days ago.
Martin Wassmer is one of my tips to become bigger....



Martin Wassmer Castellberg Pinot Noir 2010
Baden, Germany

Very fine nose...instant appeal...the wine spends time is small barrique barrels...and I can remember when the reds were top heavy. Herr Wassmer has obviously developed a style...and this is a real crowd puller. The thick fruit feel is counterbalance with an elegance that surprises on first tasting. The earthy feel is extended with the slightly robust tannins...this begs to be drunk but also to be kept. The finish is long.
Points 17.75


Thursday 29 August 2013

Sun is out...I slept until 9.30 am!
Breakfast on the terrace...and a well known face. Bettina...wife of the co-headchef...is here for one day. She had a baby 8 months ago...and came in for this day to help out. She is away again...until the child is older.




I walked up into the vineyards at the back of the hotel...through the woods..and down to Cafe Zuckerbergschloss(Sugar Mountain Castle). Rewarded myself with a strawberry and ice cream bowl. I borrowed some plasters from the owner...the new shoes were not yet worn in.

Four Versucherle(small tasters)
Salätchen vom Bioweizenschrot und Pfifferlingen mit Wachtelei
Terrine vom Kürbis im Kernölmantel,
Mousse von Rahmkäse und Gorgonzola mit Feigenchutney und gegrilltem Speck, kleines Süppchen vom Muskatkürbis




Filet von der Waldulmer Quellwasserforelle mit Pfifferlingen
im Brickteiggebacken, mit Brennessel-Spinat und Grünkernplätzen.






Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Auslese *** trocken 2007
Mosel, Germany
I hade been looking at this a few times over the years...so decided it was time to try it.
Molitor makes top wine...but this was just a touch to much Auslese...one of those 'in-between' wines...can't decide what it wants to be...plenty of ripe Riesling fruit...but missing a zip.
Points 16.5

Friday 30th August 2013
Lovely day again...the world looks better in the sunshine...
and a greeting from the kitchen...Pfifferling Mousse


Swallowing would have been hard...but just think where it would end up
Herr Hodapp always said....everything on the plate can be eaten...but this was a risk too far....


Tonight some Goose Liver...
gebratebes Gänseleber mit Bühler Zwetschgenmaultäschle und Kartoffelpürree
Bühl is a nearby town...and they have a good supply of plums!

The night before I had seen the Guinea Fowl on the next table....




gefülltes Perlhühnbrüstchen mit Schnittlauchsößle
dazu etwas Spätsommergemüse und 'Käsespätzle' auf mene Art
This was delicious...and will be up there with the meal of the holiday...
it's partner...the national dish of the Swabians...Spätzle...was just lovely.



Dr. Heger Ihringer Winklerberg Spätburgunder trocken
Häusleboden Grosses Gewächs 2008
Baden, Germany

Power....big dry tannins...has this closed up...was more open a year ago.
Mediu deep in colour...with pale rim...after 30 minutes...prickly strawberry fruit...was being to show itself...I really must plan better...have this opened hours before...but I am on holiday...and my brain is not working...typical 2008 vintage...and for the long haul.
Points 17.5

Saturday 31st August 2013
One of those days...at my age...they come along...but you just get on with it.
By the evenining I was ready to go. The day before I had opted for theterrace...but as the sun had been missing all day...I told Waiter Rado I would like to sit inside. He would try...he said...and it was very busy...so I ended up with two choice. One near the door...which was cool..to say the least...or one next to a loud table. The loud table won.
Rado told me the chef(Herr Hodapp) had some Rinderfilet...not yet on the menu...
so that was my choice  with the Maultäschle as a starter.
angeschwenkte Maultäschle von Pfifferlingen
mit Schnittlauch und gehobeltem Parmesan
.
Rinderfilet mit Ochsenmarkkruste, rote Zwiebelmaultäschle und etwas Gemüse, dazu Kartoffeltarte.

I wanted to drink a Huber tonight...the Wildenstein 2010 and 2009 are both on the list (same prices as they cost from the property)...but something a little more mature was required...


Huber Wildenstein Reserve R Spätburgunder 2007
Baden, Germany

Smokey bacon aroma...but seems closed...a quick decant...still tight...but over the evening improved. Palate more forthcoming...red / black cherries...complex...all wound up in minerals...and ageworhy acidity. Hard work still...and for the long haul...needed an overnight in the Rebstock.
Points 17



Sunday 1st September 2013

There is a promise of rain....but the sun is fighting in the red corner...too cool for breakfast on the terrace...and I can update the blog in the gasthaus restaurant...W-Lan connection. I have been told that it should be in my room on the third floor...but it must still be climbing the stairs...as it has not reached there yet..
Breakfast usually comprises of...a bowl of Müsli...a small omelet with bacon..and a bread roll with strawberry jam and 'Quark'. That gets me through the day ( yes...I know...I have been caught eating a piece of Raspberry tart...but I think that is all gone now)
Finally figured out the W-Lan problem. There are TWO Hotspots in the hotel...





Decided to take my own advice and have the evening's red opened well in advance...5 pm...and decanted.
The choice of starter was almost the same as a few days ago...
and I repeated the Perlhühnbrust.
It was possible a little dryer that it's previous relation...



Friedrich Becker Pinot Noir 2009
Pfalz, Germany

First sniff tells you...here is a very complex wine...and even after two hours...it still needed the glass to give it a lift...real intense dark fruit...almost brooding....but then a velvet glove strokes away any pain...still evolving after four hours...
Points 17.75

Monday 2nd September 2013

A walk around the vineyards...I never tire of them...and just look at that blue sky.



Monday's...Restaurant is closed.
The plan was...I would bring a couple of older bottles...and Herr Hodapp would invite a friend. Friend had an unplanned business meeting.
Result..Herr Hodapp's wife Sandra Stark...made some Pizza...and we sat outside on the terrace. Son Bastian joined us...


Basti Hodapp


A bottle of white...
Chateau du Beaucastel Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2008
Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France
You never know when to open this wine. It closes after a few years....hibernates...then you hold your breath for 10 years and open a bottle. I have a couple of really old versions...just never got round to pulling the corks.
Roussanne always reminds me of polished grapes...glossy feel to this...ready to close...but we caught it in time. Nuts...honey...some quince...even orange marmalade...complex...lies nicely in the mouth...almonds...and benefitted from the good airing
Points 17.25

The glass is from Basti...Juice without alcohol


Herr Hodapp never has time to share many bottles. Tonight he was on a role!
We had discussed Huber wines...and on the wine-list is the Wildenstein 2010...
it should be said...at the same price you can buy it at the property. It was opened...
Huber Wildenstein Spätburgunder 2010
Baden, Germany
All I remember...as I had no notes...was an array of smells...red fruit...then I thought 'Bordeaux' not Pinot...then blackcurrant...man...this is going to be some wine. There are the obvious tight tannins...and the fiery fruit...
Herr Hopapp wanted to try a half bottle of Bordeaux...2005...which was riper...amd more ready...but it did not interest me...I kept wanting to smell the Huber.
There was enough in the bottle for a glass next evening...the aroma was less...the palate more giving.
Points....today...17.5
Tomorrow (6-7 years) Probably 18.5



Tuesday 3rd September 2013
Up fairly early...quick breakfast...and set of to Kaiserstuhl...where the top properties are.
I had a definite target. The recent bottle herein the restaurant of Martin Wassmer's Pinot Noir had convinced me...along with a couple of bottles over the last few months. This man made my style of the hedonistic grape.
The property is in Bad Krozingen...the be exact...Schlatt. As I got near to the village I let the Sat Nav take over...as the address was 'Am Sportplatz' (on the Sport's Field). I may as well have let one of the chickens guide me. It kept saying I was there...but I wasn't. A local man was asked...he spoke with a Russian accent...and did not know. I did as I usually do in these
situations... I follow my nose. Found it...
My type of property...from the outside...you just would not know from a distance that some great wines are made here.
I was greeted by Herr Meier...Mayer...Meyer(so many versions)...who I had called earlier.
Placed my order...told him to tell Martin Wassmer that Herr Hodapp said hello...my mobile phone rang...it was my wife asking if I was enjoying my holiday...then back in to pay. I had ordered the 2010 and had inquired if there were any 2009's still available. Whether it was the size of my order...or the greeting from Karl Hodapp...whatever...when I got back in Herr Meier (let's decide on this version) had found two bottles of 2009...and Martin Wassmer was there.
Great...let's chat.
Some history...Martin had started out by selling Asparagus in 1982...selling them from his parents' garage...then Strawberries...and 15 years ago...in 1997...the first wine. He never really took any courses...just an Autumn visit to Chambolle-Musigny in Burgundy...he just observed and took it in...learning by doing I guess you could say. His favourite first wines...Domaine Dujac, Morey-Saint-Denis, Clos de La Roche...and the influence has been the basis for his style...not only with reds...but also the whites.




Sat Nav or Nose...Nose of course


Castellberg und Maltesergarten
His 'Pet' love...is the Dottinger Castellberg vineyard. There used to be various owners...but nobody stayed around too long...steep and back-breaking. When he purchased the complete parcel a few years ago...he was told it had never hailed there. It hadn't for 28 years...but on Wednesday 29 August  2012 it did...and all the grapes were ruined.
It would have been hard...but Martin Wassmer is a positive person...
This is a property to watch...

Martin Waßmer

Next stop...Franz Keller Schwarzer Adler in Vogtsburg-Oberbergen...the property of Fritz Keller. I knew where the Restaurant was...and knew that he has built a new 'state of the world' building...but the Sat Nav couldn't find it. I asked at the restaurant...and they said it couldn't be found on any system...so I followed my nose...and the man's directions. My list of 'wants' became a list of 'what they still have'.






By this time it was after midday...and to be honest...the Kaiserstuhl does not lend itself to driving and taking in the vineyards scenery.


I stopped off for a good Lasagne and a beer...and arrived back in my second homeland...taking in the view which never fails to please.

The weather is really very warm now...and the terrace beckons. Eat less meat were the instructions from my wife...so I started out with a Schaumsüppchen von Pfifferling and followed it with the gabratenene Medaillons vom Seeteufel.




The wine...something light and easy...after the long day.
Dr Heger Ihringer Winklerberg v.B
Weisburgunder trocken Großes Gewächs 2011
Baden, Germany

Voted best Weisburgunder from Baden 2011...93 points...so it had to be tried and tested.
Now...to be honest...I don't get turned on by Weis und Grauburgunder.
This was fresh and enticing...cool stream stuff...gentle peach fruit and a fine mineral streak.
Had half the bottle and decided to try the rest next evening. Yeh...that was the plan...read on...
Points 16.25 for the moment....


As I sat out and watched the sun go down...I had a small glass of the Wildenstein 2010...from yesterday....and then headed for the land of dreams.

Wednesday 4th September 2013

Still feeling the long previous day...so lazed about...hey...that was the plan from the start.
Felt revived by 5 pm...and decided to get ready and make an earlier start for the terrace.
At 6.30 pm...the sun was still sending it's warmth over us...
I told the waitress there was a half-bottle from the day before. She knew...but after ordering the food...it had not arrived. Rado...the waiter...had put it where he knew it was...but he had the evening off. My plan had been to try a glass...then drink some Grüner Veltliner. As the
Heger was 'lost' but it was no great hurt to have the G.V.



Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner
Smaragd trocken Honigvogl 2009

Wachau, Austria

I have had this a couple of times...same thoughts...HAMMER WINE(That's Denglish)...rich emerald fruit...great weight in the mouth...slighty 'weet'...but that is the style...and the minerals rein in any extra weight. I 'almost' finished the bottle without knowing it...sent the obligatory glass into the kitchen.
Points 17.75
oh yes...the food...almost forget...so good was the wine.
More Maultäschle...and a main course of Schnittchen von Salm und Zander mit etwas Mohn gebacken auf Pfifferlingcouscous. It looked like a giant Fish Finger...no need to say it tasted heaps better!




Thursday 5th September 2013

Breakfast in the sun again...and the fountain...isn't water soothing?


then drove up the back of the village...up the hill...steep and winding...stopping off occasionally to take in the views...



then down through Ottenhöfen and back to Kappelrodeck. Stopped off for a Latte Macchiato in the Zuckerbergschloss...gazed at the fountain...and listened to some great soul music on the player. Hold this moment...



Mid-Afternoon...Herr Hodapp asked if I wanted to drive around the vineyards...and take in the views.


 I waited in front of the hotel...and took in the views there...
Bettina...she with the baby...and her husband...Herr Vogel...who is co-chef...followed in their car...and we drove up into the forest. Herr Hodapp wanted to show them a play park....wonderful place for the kids.
Play Park
The Little Vogel
Vosges Mountains in the distance


Herr Hodapp

It is me...really!
Another lovely warm evening...and the Wachtel called me...starters with a couple of alternative 'Versuchele' 



and a bottle of everyone's 'house wine'.
Gantenbein Chardonnay 2009
Fläsch, Switzerland

It was here at the Rebstock that I first tasted this one...then managed to buy a bottle for my cellar. It is like gold dust. On a similar day last year...the oak seemed less dominant...but with food and time...the balance restored itself. Butter and Brioche... Chardonnay can be so beautiful when done properly...
and that is all I have to say...the evening took over...and I refused to work anymore...
Points 17.75

Friday 6th September 2013
Drove the short distance to Renchen...Weingut Bimmerle...an up and coming property to watch.

 
Then after midday...down to Achern Railway Station.
Fellow bloggerSimon Jones and his wife Jenny coming up from Basel to join
me for the evening. Took them first to the Zuckerbergschloss...then threw them out at their hotel down the road from Rebstock. We meet at 6pm.




They arrived...and I gave them some tips on the food...both tried some of the tasters...and Simon took my advise on the Quail. Jenny and I opted for the Medaillon von Weide Lammrücken im Ziegenfrischkäsmantel mit etwas Bauernallerlei und Münsterrösti.
A 'greeting' from the kitchen...warm Goose Liver with Sauerkraut
Tement Sauvignon Blanc
Zieregg Barrique 2008
South Styria, Austria

Had this a couple of times...and should have been opened a little earlier...melon and quince fruit...Simon & I both said nettles...Jenny nodded. There is quite strong Gooseberry feel to this...but enough minerals to calm it all down. Not the most memorable bottle...airing...airing...
Points 17


We asked for two red wine glasses per person...and we would serve ourselves.
Rebstock understands this wine-freak...and with another across the table...
they understood even more.
Martin Waßmer Schlatter
Spätburgunder trocken SW 2007
Baden (Markgräflerland), Germany

As you will know...this property makes my style of Pinot Noir.
Firs immpression was dark berries...and surprisingly some medium tannins.
The food arrived...and we tried again after the first bite. This really came into it's own.
Lovely ripe farmyard smells...plums...smokey bacon...soft earthy fruit...just lovely.
I may be going over the top...but I can only mark what I find attractive.
Points 17.5
Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein
Oberrotweiler Eichberg
Spätburgunder trocken 2007

Baden(Kaiserstuhl), Germany
This seemed softer at first...and was less impressive when we were comparing the two.
It came into it's own when tasted after the food. It had found harmony...red berry fruit...spread evenly over the palate...soft leather...definite vanilla tones...a wine to finish off any evening.
Points 17.5

We parted at 11pm...how easy it is to pass 5 hours when you are having fun.

Saturday 7th September 2013
Breakfasted...then met the two again at 11.00am. We walked up behind the Gasthof Rebstock...through the vineyards.











Then I offered to drive them up to the Black Forest High Road and we stopped for a short visit to the Mummelsee.






The short version turned into the longer one...and when we drove down...we diverted to Durbach...drove up the long winding road to Max Markgraf von Baden's Schloss Staufenberg and had a Flammkuchen and took in the view.






The wine shop had no more Durbacher Schlossberg 2010.

The nearest railway Station was Appenweier...and we made it with 10 minutes to spare. They had seen quite a bit in such a short time...and it was a very pleasurable 24 hours.
Back to the hotel...a cup of tea... cigar...and a tip from Rado...pigeon on the menu tonight. Sorry Simon and Jenny...you missed it.




Started with the Snail Soup...then gebratenes Taubenbrüstchen mit
Gänseleber dazu etwas Rahmwirsing und Traubenplätzchen
As I had been disappointed at getting no wine atSchloss Staufenberg...I needed some sort of compromise.


Max Markgraf von Baden Spätburgunder
Schlossberg Fass 64 trocken 2008
Baden, Germany

Oh no...this smelled broody and on heat...sounds like a dog. Still surprisingly very firm.
It tried to please...kept walking in and out of the pleasure zone...needed food...like a dog needs a bone. The dark fruit was sweet...methinks this spent some time in the barrel...and only one barrel...named Faß 64...was released. Left almost more than I drank...
Points 16.25

Sunday 8th September 2013
The clouds had been threatening...and overnight there had been rain...my last full day...so I guess it makes it easier.

Vine...10 days later

Walked the vineyards again...taking a photo of the same vines as on Tuesday...spot the difference...no...neither can I.

Plum Tree

There are other things that grow here...other than wine...plums for instance.
Did some pre-packing after breakfast ...saves doing the three flights of stairs 5 times before I leave tomorrow.
Had some warming soup at lunch...it was a few degrees cooler today...and managed to have the sun on me when I tried some raspberry cake mid-afternoon.



Last Greeting from the Kitchen



Last evening on my regular indoor table...a greeting fom the kitchen...then one of my favourites...Maultäschle...and a Rückensteak vom 'Mohrenköpfle'(free-range pigs) mit Steinchampignons in Schnittlauchrahmsößle, Karottenflan und Spätzle.
I didn't want to risk anything this evening...so opted for the Waßmer SW 2007.




As it was on Friday...this is good...but give it food and it expands. 
Your Happy Blogger Barry

Goodbyes to the staff...and I was gone up the stairs to rest my weary body.
Two weeks eating and drinking...it's a hard life!

Rebstock at Night
Monday 9th September 2013
Up early...quick breakfast...and I am off.

Breakfast Buffet
Had been meaning to visit Weingut Seeger in Leimen a couple of times...but time never allowed. I had called on Friday and did so again from the car before I left...Frau Seeger said she would be waiting. The property is in Leimen...birthplace of Boris Becker...and I passed the vinothek by before realizing that I had arrived.
As the entrance door was locked...I phoned again...and Herr Seeger answered...and I explained I had an appointment. He came up from the cellar...opened the door...called his wife...and was gone. A little grumpy! Frau Seeger appeared and was very friendly and I ordered...some vintages no longer there...but with a property that is constantly producing the goods...the next vintage should be just as good. She let me down into the cellar area and I took some photos...even got Mr. Grumpy to turn around. He was on his own...packing wine...so I guess he could be excused.


Guess Who's Wine?

I had to be quick...hence the blurr


The short journey home...and after emptying the car...checking the business with my secretary...greeting my wife...and telling her about the holiday...then a meal and a beer...and I fell into bed and slept 9 hours.

A GREAT TIME WAS HAD...AS YOU MAY HAVE GUESSED AFTER READING THE ABOVE!





1 comment:

Tom said...

Love reading your blog and learning about German Pinot's. Still have some Huber in the cellar, must try one of these days.

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