Friday, August 07, 2009

Green Ain't Always Green

How should wines be reviewed...if you are at a Bordeaux tasting and one of the wines is good...but not typically Bordeaux..do you rate it less. With Grüner Veltliner there seems to be 3 categories.............the 'basic'..at around
€ 10,--...then a more complex example..and of course the top wines..Smaragd. These start around € 20,-- . Smaragd wines are made from the ripest grapes and must have an alcohol content of at least 12 %. They are full-bodied wines have excellent aging potential, sometimes of 20 years or more.






Johann Schmelz Grüner Veltliner Steinertal Smaragd 2008
Wachau, Kamptal, Austria
Yellow green in colour...smell of yellow apples and some pineapple....a velvety feel on the palate..with stone fruits coming to mind..and a touch of citrus. Certainly a good wine....but the spiciness that I searched for..is not there.
Points 16.75
Now..to explain what I mean...the 2nd example....

Franz Hirzberger Grüner Veltliner
Axpoint Smaragd 2007

Wachau, Kamptal, Austria
Medium yellow..and a more typical GV aroma..spices..even a trace of gooseberry?...honey.....a flavour of 'green minerals'..bouncing over the tongue...quite rich..but dry...and the spices continue.....good finish...and just what I expected...
Points 17.25

1 comment:

Laurie said...

I haven't yet tried the Franz Hirzberger, but I did see it for sale at a wine shop on Long Island. Harder to find in my neck of the woods in Connecticut (picture small New England town). Still, good to see reviews of Gruner Veltliner.

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