Wednesday, September 08, 2010

Bio Baden

Two wines bought on our recent trip...both organic BIO properties.
Arndt Köbelin is one of the rising stars in Baden.
He was cellarmaster for the Winzergenossenschaft in Durbach until 2005 and was responsible for the quality produced by the Cooperative.
His first vintage was 2005 in his parent's Weingut. This was obviously not going to be adequate for what he had in mind...and the building of his own started in 2006....just on the edge of Eichstetten. The strictness of the Co-Op had frustrated him...he believes that you have to taste the area. This is an organic property with vines up to 40 years old. Anything newly planted is taken from an elderly grower in Alsace. The Spätburgunder vines are situated on the edge of a wood...the nights are cool...but the mornings bring a drying sun.
Weingut Arndt Köbelin Spätburgunder 2008
Baden, Germany
Hand-picked healthy grapes...and it spends 12 months in large oak casks. The first impression is of a kettle without a whistle. It's all there but does not sing. A trace of complexity and some delayed sweet fruit. I corked up the bottle...half left...and was repaid next evening with a delicate, sweet cherry fruit, juicy...good acidity...touch of spice... and an even layer of tannins. This is a bargain at € 9,-- and I am looking forward to trying to top red...and yes...with a good decant.
Points 15.5

I was looking forward to playing soccer on Sunday morning...and on returning I opened a bottle of the next wine...on the advise of Herr Klumpp...'Decant half a day in advance' was his last instructions. I had my radio show in the evening...
and drank the first half that evening...planning to try the rest next day. On Monday I was feeling fine...and decided to go and play again...this time with a much 'better' group of players...for the club I used to play for...some who are still playing with the first team...and the whole bunch with maybe an average age of 40. Nowadays...I have a bandage on the left knee, another on the right....and the right ankle is covered as well. I hadn't seen some of them for 12 months...as Monday is really too soon after the Sunday game. Well...a better return I could not have wished for....I assisted the first goal...then headed the second...and after a quick 'spurt' through a gap...I side-footed home the fourth. Inside of me...you can guess how I felt...and the grins that had greeted me...were more with approval that before the game. At 64, I can still cut it...and heaven knows what I will do when I can't play soccer...but...until that day...I'll keep patching myself together...and give those youngsters a run for their money!
How did we get on to soccer?....ah yes...the rest of the wine. Well...that half-day decant was now a 2-day in the bottle alternative.

Weingut Klumpp...the estate is located in the commune of Bruchsal in the Kraichgau district. It was founded in 1983 by Ulrich and Marietta Klumpp, who had previously already been involved in viticulture. In the meantime, the sons Andreas and Markus have already joined the business, as the second generation. The vineyard comprises of holdings in the following sites: Eichholz, Klosterberg and Weiherberg (Bruchsal), Kirchberg (Unteröwisheim), as well as Himmelreich (Zeutern). The area is planted with the following red varietals: Pinot Noir, St. Laurent, Lemberger and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as with the white varieties Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Auxerrois. First attempts at organic winemaking started in 1985, and since 1996 the estate has committed itself fully to organic production methods.
The house motto: Wer aufgehört hat, besser zu sein, hat auch aufgehört gut zu sein (He who has stopped trying to better himself...has stopped trying to improve himself....that's a rough translation....I'm open to better offers)
Weingut Klumpp
Himmelreich Lemberger 2008

Baden, Germany
Our wine here is from the Zeutern vineyard..I like Lemberger...and have tried quite a few from Württemberg...which is not a stone's-throw away from this most northerly of Baden properties. I have to say...the labels of this property are to my liking...On opening it was full of cool aroma...powdery tannins...medium thick fruit...and plenty of potential to improve. The second half of the wine was, on re-opening...a little miffed at being left in the bottle...afraid it had been forgotten...but it soon showed a smile...touch of perfume...still beefy...but had suitable softened...touch of tar, trace of liquorice on the palate...and as I sipped the last 'dregs'...I found it was still roaming around my mouth a good minute after drinking. What it was like in between the two tastings...I can't tell... I was out scoring goals.
Points 17.25...which for a € 17,-- wine is pretty good value!
By the way...the dog was very friendly...my wife was not sure...but I have never met a vineyard dog yet that bites...maybe they lick the barrels dry.

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