Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Klopse & Austrian Whites

Tegernseehof - Mittelbach
Riesling Smaragd
Steinertal 2009

Wachau, Austria

Located in Unterloiben, just below Dürnstein, the property boasts a tradition dating back to the Middle Ages. The original facilities were built in 1176 by the Benedictine community of the Tegernsee Abbey. At the time, the abbey was recognized as a center for literature, the production of illustrated books and erudition. The abbey and its vineyards were first mentioned in a small book about the Tegernsee vineyards in 1427. For centuries, the abbey was where the Bavarian monastery produced its wine. At the turn of the 19th century, it was acquired by the Austrian Empire and decades later, it went into private ownership. Franz Mittelbach and his wife, Mathilde, are the fifth generation of Tegernseerhof owners. Since the 1970s, they have been continuously running the Tegernseerhof as a family business. Today, Martin Mittelbach, the son of Franz and Mathilde, has carried on this tradition. This only sees steel tanks...green tinged in colour...blood oranges...and orange peel...along with peaches are the aromas that greet you. The first sip purses your lips...there is a dollop (try Googling that word) of acidity...a mineral structure...stone fruits...light styled...I am finding it hard to find any instant appeal...it is certainly a well made wine...maybe the word Smaragd mislead me to think I would have more dominant fruit...even at this young age. This is a Riesling for Riesling Fanatics...but regular readers know that I have trouble enjoying wines with an overdose of acidity. This needs food just now...which it got...although probably with an afterthought...the Königsberger Klopse (cooked meatballs in a white sauce with capers) would have enjoyed a slightly fuller wine.
Points 16.5

but certainly more if you are in the Fanatics Club...I prefer my Austrian Rieslings in the
Hirsch style.
The Königsberger Klopse!!!







Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner
Smaragd Kollmütz 2009

Wachau, Austria

This was purchased along with the 2009
Hochrain.
Tobacco notes...smoke...typical GV...spicy and exotic.
Complex flavour of apples and some lemon...my kind of acidity...and although a Smaragd it still has a light feel to it. Intense white peppery aftertaste and very fine minerals. Sweet & Sour would be a good general description. I gave this 16.75...but drank the rest 2 days later.
Points 17.25




PS...I like the comparisons quoted by Rudi Pichler 'If you prefer Pinot Noir you'll like Kollmütz, if you like Bordeaux you'll like Hochrain'. Remind me to open the latter a day in advance.

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