It was mid October..the sun shone for 7 days..we saw not one drop of rain.
Ah..when Angels travel...
Three days on the Mosel, 2 in northern Alsace & 2 in the Baden area.
Our first stop was a hotel/restaurant we had discovered in March. A wonderful tranquille hotel with a top restaurant, run by the Rüssel family.
Landhaus Clos St Urban in Naurath..near to Trier. Great food and a winelist to match.
Some wonderful half bottles which gives you the chance to try glasses of the local white before your half bottle of red. Three I tried were all from Baden.
Becker Blauer Spätburgunder 1998
Recommended by the Sommelier..as I was doubtful it had held up. It was labelled 1996 and Friedrich Becker had changed it to 1998 as he had some labels left over. It was superb..like a Musigny.
Points 18
Duijn Spätburgunder 2003
Serious Pinot...great year..will develope
Points 17.5
Huber Spätburgunder Trocken 2002
Softer style..easier drinking
16.5
Next stop was Baerenthal in northern Alsace..in the middle of nowhere..
believe me!!
Here is the three-star restaurant L'Arnsbourg..plenty of photos here
They have built a hotel nearby...
no way you can drive yourself along those roads after a few glasses.
The first evening I had a glass of Alsace Riesling..and followed it with a half bottle of Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieux Telegraph 2003. The sommelier and myself got to chatting..as I dined alone this evening and he had seen all my wine literature on the table. We both agreed..although a very good wine..nothing like the Pape style..more mid Spain!The following evening we took the 'smaller menu' and with all the extras you're going to need all your stamina. After perusing the winelist all day..I decided on a top Burgundy from a weaker year.
Musigny Joseph Drouhin 2000
Good colour; elegant style, softer, fragrant..maybe missing that UMPHF! I enjoy in good Burgundy..but the bottle emptied pretty quickly with all that food.
Points 17.5
Last stop of our trip was a recommendation of a wine friend.We wanted good food and a quiet hotel.
What we got was more...a little gem!
A short trip from the motorway is Kappelrodeck - Waldulm..a mouthful for you non-Germans.
Gasthof Rebstock..run by Karl Hodapp who also has his own vineyards.
Pleasant comfortable rooms, friendly service(open all day!!), great down to earth food and a winelist to die for. As Herr Hodapp is a Spätburgunder lover..the first 4 pages of his list only have red wines from the area..and at prices only a little more expensive than if you bought from the vineyards. A wonderful collection of a top year for reds in Baden...2003..plus an extensive list of whites from Germany. The rest of the world is also worth a look.
* They even had a Cheval Blanc 1962 at only €uros 210,--*
I had narrowed it down to 4..and my choice on the first evening was...
Salwey Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken***Oberrotweiler Kirchberg 2003
Fine colour; nose opened in glass, creamy classic Pinot; full mouthful, warm, soft flavoury and a super long finish
Points 18
The following evening I sent my list into the kitchen and the answer came back..try the Bercher!
Bercher Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken
Burkheimer Feuererg 2003
A different style to the above..which I was told was why it was recommended.a lighter style although by no means easy drinking..needs a few years then should be a very elegant wine.
Points 17
A wonderful week..with long walks in the beautiful countryside...
Heaven is on earth...sometimes!!
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