England Visit 2014

My annual visit to England to visit my mum

Monday 27.01.2014

Set of mid-morning...and arrived at the port in Rotterdam with over two hours to spare before boarding at 5 pm. As the food generally is not good I had thought about a snack, a good cigar somewhere and an early night. There is no smoker's bar other than a room for those wanting a quick puff of a cigarette...so it was into the brasserie for a sirloin steak...and my first alcohol for 2 weeks...a small beer.

Managed to get to sleep at 10 pm and the trip to Hull was calm.

Tuesday 28.01.2014
Arrived at destination, my mum's home, at 11.00 am.
No great plans for the evening...and I fancied a Thai curry. There is an excellent restaurant nearby...the 'Mews' in Poulton.
I ordered a 'Jungle Curry'  and asked for  more spice. Boy did I get it!
Actually...if you took care not to bite into the many chilis...it became less of an adventure. A cold beer relieved any gasping moments.

Wednesday 29.01.2014
Our first visit to the 'Twelve' restaurant...which is 50 metres from my mum's apartment.
As I wanted to break myself in gently after the long period without wine...something good but not over the top.

Greeting from the Kitchen

Artichoke Soup

Becker Spätburgunder 'B' 2010
Pfalz, Germany
Great start...spicy earthy...gentle sweetness..always reliable.
Points 16.5

Thursday 30.01.2014
Needing to wind down and get some rest has not been easy...so I visited a Chiro Practice. Wonderful...the 'No Hands Massage'...plus the Reflexoligy really helped. I got back to Mum's at 6 pm...and díd not want to get a taxi anywhere...so we stumbled across the courtyard for another visit to Twelve.
The white wine I had planned to take on the taxi journey was with me.

Gemischter Satz Alte Rebe 2012
Vienna, Austria
Gentle pear fruit, filled out with airing...smokey...elegenat acidity...good food wine
Points 17.25

The food was great. A delicious Haggis Burger was a perfect match...and the fish course...Brill...was fine as well.



Friday 31.01.2014
Twelve...third day running.

Quail Sausage

Loin of Venison

Fromm Clayvin Vineyards Pinot Noir 2009
Marlborough, New Zealand
The palate shows  spicy cherry flavours with mocha notes and deliciously earthy tannins,...complex and silky textured wine...good balance and plenty of substance for aging, but is approachable now.
Points 17

Saturday 01.02.2014
Farmer's Arms...a recently renovated Gastro-Pub.

Fish of the Day

Fresh Crab

Salt and Pepper Squid

King Prawn Curry

Domaine Régis Rossignol-Changarnier
Beaune 1er Cru Les Theurons, 2009
Really enjoyed this...and been a while since I have gone back to Burgundy for my Pinot Noir. Strawberry and juicy black cherry with some dried herbs.
Grainy tannins...very fruit driven...still youthful...but softening and enticing.
Points 17.25

Sunday 02.02.2014
Twelve Restaurant

Greeting

Goat's Cheese Mousse

Poached Halibut

Oakridge Chardonnay 864 2008
Yarra Valley, Australia
A touch 'too much' for me...fig and toast...quite complex...but I was yearning for some minerality.
Points 16.75

Monday 03.02.2014 
Britain has been battered by rain and more rain. The rivers have never been so high.

Most restaurants are closed on Monday...but I had heard good things about 'Thai Delicious' in Cleveleys. It was great. Really good clean typical Thai food.


Tuesday 04.02.2014

Mum studies the Menu

Another visit to the Farmer's Arms was planned...and I had seen a decent 2010 white Burgundy on the list...

Bouton Gilles St.Aubin En Remilly 2010

We arrived at 7pm...and I said if they had the wine we would order the food apropriately. The answer was positive so the food was ordered with fish being dominant. Now...pubs...no matter how upmarket they are...they do not teach their staff the general rules of wine.

The young lady appeared round the corner...bottle in hand...corkscrew half in the cork...the foil cap not cleanly removed. All this before she hadreached the table! She proudly showed the bottle as she held on to the corkscrew...and I checked the neck. 2011 Vintage. 'That's all we have' she said. Even when I am nearly ready to burst I am understanding...and as we had ordered the food...I told her we would try it. The cork was removed and the wine poured...and as I had expected...was full of youthful acidity. No way we were going to enjoy this.
Order the next best white on the list...

Blanco de Guarda Finca de la Reñana 2010 Luis Alegre Rioja.
The poor girl left and returned with a bottle...and...you've guessed it...Vintage 2011.
Nothing for it...change the main course to meat...and order the bottle of Beaune tried on Saturday.
A male colleague appeared and took my order and returned with the wine.
I had evidently scared the young woman to such an effect that she made detours round our table for the next 30 minutes...until I called her over and said 'Could I order a smile?'...which seemed to please.
The other waitress on Saturday had told us she was taking a basic wine course and now knew that Champagne had to be 'shaken' (remuage) before leaving the cellars. All very commendable...but after this evening...surely the basic rules of showing a bottle to make sure it is correct ...and removing the foil so as the wine does not pour over the leaded stuff. Such basics...so please...all upmarket Gastro-Pubs...give as much time to the wines as you do to the beer. Strangely...another pub of the same style has a wine list without vintages...maybe the answer!!!( only joking)
The marinated fish salad  was delicious and very fresh.

Marinated Fish Salad

Sirloin Steak

The steak partnered the wine well....



Wednesday 05.02.2014
Twelve Restaurant

Hash Brown Burger

Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir 2007
Central Otego, New Zealand
Bold flavours...sweet pure Pinot...dark plums...spicy...silky mouthful.
Points 17.25
As much as I enjoy the 'Twelve'...the glasses are not ideal for a wine freak....to thick...and it does affect your taste.
BUT...
As owner Caroline says...the cost of a glass breaking.....
I always take my own wines to the restauarnt...maybe I should also take my own glass...now that is 'wine-snobbery'...but I don't care...so there! Ha!

Thursday 06.02.2014
Waether was bright and sunny...and mum and I just drove around all day.
Food..takeaway from the excellent Thai Delicious restaurant.

Friday 07.02.2014
Twelve Restauarnt....final visit

Mum...great at 89

Knuckle of Ham andFoie Gras Terrine

Forest of Bowland aged Beef Filet

Schubert Pinot Noir Block B 2010
Wairarapa, New Zealand
Tried quite a few from this property...my style...maybe the German winemaker is the reason!
Intense black cherry and floral notes. Meaty...with smoke and tobacco...quite full-bodied...but then again...a shade of elegance...asking to be kept.
Points 17.25

Barry & Mum

Saturday 08.02.2014
Sunday 09.02.2014
Spent relaxing, watching TV, doing nothing.
I was supposed to take the boat back on Tuesday...but as the weather was predicting sun for ONE day...I took the Monday ferry...and arrived home Tuesday early afternoon.
I ate in the cabin on the way back...buying some nice food at Mark's & Spencers before boarding. Very enjoyable.
A day later the winds were force 9...and a day afterwards...12!!!

Man, was I glad to be back home

Pleasing A Friend

A week later...and we were back at the Restaurant Madrid...this time with close friends...one of whom drinks wine.
He remembers the days when he was drinking half bottles of La Rioja Alta 904...so on reserving a table ..I asked if I could bring a bottle and pay corkage. The owner remembered me...not many people drink his Lan Reserva 2005!
The surprise for Edgar was perfect...his eyes lit up...not at a 904...but a step up at the top wine of the estate...the 890.

La Rioja Alta 890 1995
Rioja, Spain
Opened a couple of hours in advance....before we left home...and instantly impressed the restaurant owner.
This is 95% Tempranillo and aged in American Oak...with 12.5% alcohol.
The nose show traces of the 6 years in oak...classic old-style...cedar, vanilla and toffee....pipe tobacco. The palate struggles to keep up...and needed food. The tannins are quite silky...and the sour acidity lifts it as we eat. Edgar loved it...and it certainly is a fine wine...although the mid-palate is slightly oxidised. I would guess it is at a difficult age. Not sure I would go back for this again though...
Points 17

Good Koching

A Rising Star...and GaultMillau have just awarded Bernhard Koch with the 'Collection Of The Year'. I headed for the Pinot Noirs...but could not resist the Chardonnays...hoping the Pfalz mix would be to my liking.

Both wines tasted over two days....

The 'lesser' wines...always show better in their youth compared to the top versions...due to their approachability.
 

Bernhard Koch Chardonnay Réserve Trocken
Hainfelder Letten 2012
Pfalz, Germany
Apples and Pears with some traces of caramlized almonds. What pleases with this wine is the lovely and lively minerals. Citrus fruits....leaves the palate ready to go for the next sip. There is hidden power...but the overall zippiness makes this a wine for today...but a few bottles will be put away.
Points 17.25

Bernhard Koch Chardonnay Grande Réserve Trocken
Hainfelder Letten 2012
Pfalz, Germany
Fuller nose...some brioche...fuller wine throughout...but still with the overall perfect balance found in the sibling above. Power and Finesse...ripe pears...needs a year or two...
Points 17.25...but with some more to come

So...as I said...the lesser wine is equal today...but both a must buy...and the reds are great as well. Collection Of The Year?...oh yes.

Back to Spain

Years ago....the many visits to Spain had been pleasurable with fresh seafood, Paella and Rioja. Finding a good 'Spanier' is not easy...so a tip about this restaurant a few miles away was eagerly accepted...and a table on a Saturday evening  was reserved. 'Madrid' had moved from Rüsselsheim to Groß-Gerau...which won't interest anyone abroad...but the fact that they had been in business 20 years boded well.

A dark winter evening meant the first view from a distance were the lights in the middle of nowhere. We wre greeted by the friendly waiter and shown our table. The aroma was enough to get me smiling...and if you did not know it...you would be back in Spain.

Grilled Squid

The aioli with fresh bread kept us occupied while we studied the menu.
I convinced my brother-in-law that we should try the 'Paella Valenciana'. 
I asked about the grilled Squid and was informed it was fresh.
It was...and what pleased me...was the natural taste had not been bombarded by spices.

Paella Valenciana

The Paella for 2 arrived...and it was the best I have had for a long time. All ingredients fresh...and the rice...which needs to be perfect or you can forget the rest...was perfect. It was more than enough for 2 people...so next time...no starter. I even took a portion home for next day.
No wine list...but I informed the waiter that I was a wine freak...and I NEEDED a good bottle.

Lan Reserva 2005
Rioja, Spain
Dark, full bodied with a nose of plum, cherry, graphite, spice and creamy vanilla, well structured and balanced, complex, dusty, off dry on the palate with good length. Restaurant price € 32,-- and well worth it.
Points 17

The son of the owner told me his father (72) is still in the kitchen.
He also said they did not have a wine-list becuase the vintages changed, wines were not available etc...so always ask. A few whites to try next time...3 different Albariños...and maybe I can convince him to drink one of the 'rarities' he showed me.
Somewhere to return to...and soon.

Cercle du Vin

The idea was born one evening on my recent holiday in the Black Forest.
Rebstock owner Karl Hodapp and myself were drinking some wines on his free evening and the conversation included having time to drink wines with a few friends.
I suggested we start something...a group...and I would raid my cellar for the first meeting. It had been planned for the 11th November but 2 days beforehand Karl had been hit by a virus and we had to postpone.
Monday 9th December is now the proposed date.
The idea for the group name arises from something I started in the 80's...drinking great wines with like-minded friends and aquaintances. We are 8 people in all...the rooms are reserved at the Gasthaus...Karl is free to relax and enjoy the wines as the kitchen staff will be there for another private function.
Ten days after the event...here the report.

On Monday 9th December....Volker, Robert,Thorsten and myself set off for Waldulm.
It was a cold but sunny day...and we arrived at 1 pm. Karl greeted us with son Basti....I was told where the wines were...just look at them.

We opened the two Madeira wines...I chose the 1863....opened carefully with my Butler's Friend...cork intakt. Volker was handed the 1864...that's life...he only has a stopper cork to remove.. Both wines looked and smelled good...and were decanted.
Robert...our wine merchant...had made an appointment in Kappelrodeck...to visit a Brennerei...makers of 'fire-water'. We arrived at 2 pm....and were met by a guy who was going to show him round the premises. After 10 minutes listening to him...I excused myself...I knew this was going to be a long process.  I sat in the car...and an hour later!!!...the other 3 emerged...smelling of Schnapps.
Back to the Rebstock...I was down in the restaurant to prepare the other bottles. Karl's wife Sandra Stark was there...she was preparing the table for the evening. The planned other 'private function' of politicians...had been postponed until next day...which meant Karl would be preparing the food after all.
Back upstairs to freshen up...Volker said he could drink a coffee...and a cup of tea for me would be good as well...so down into the Gasthof. We sat there...and the first of Karl's guests...Wolfgang....arrived...and we chatted.
Now...the meeting for all was planned for 5.30- 6 pm...but at 4.15 pm...the other two...Joachim and Robert Stark(Karl's father-in-Law) arrived.
Karl appeared with a bottle of Dom Perignon 2003. I quickly jogged upstairs and told my other two that we were all there...and at 4.30pm ( it was dark outside...so we were allowed to drink...haha)...we were sipping Champagne.

No points for the wines below...a serious meeting of wine lovers...but I just wanted to take it all in.
At 5 pm...we were at the table...and the first wine was tried

1. Bird In Hand Nest Egg 
Chardonnay 2008
Adelaide Hills, Australia
Rich, aromatic smoky oak...nutty palate...zippy wine...creamy...now perfectly balanced. Fine starter wine...

2. F. X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner 
'M' 2003    
Wachau, Austria
I love the aged versions of this wine...recent ones have been 2000/1/2...and this hot vintage version was no exception. Sweet fruit but so finely balanced. No sign of heat...long. Impressed the group.

The food was a Risotto with truffel....delicious.

Risotto

Karl then said he had prepared Pumpkin soup...for the next white wine. I said we had none...but Robert...being Robert...had brought a white Hermitage with him...and good it was.

Pumpkin Soup

Wolfgang & Joachim

Robert & Thorsten

and so to the reds....
3. Chateau Leoville Lascases 1961
St. Julian, Bordeaux
Opened shortly before drinking...and decanted.
This was the only wine that I thought may not be up to par...as I had read varying reports. It was, however, Karl and Volker's birth year. They are holding up slightly better...thank goodness.
The wine was not bad...just a little tired. Cedar wood aroma....dry tobacco...cigar box...all the well known 'ingredients'...but lacking in any power...from such a wonderful vintage

4. Chateau Latour 1966
 Pauillac, Bordeaux
This was to be the saviour...for the Lascases...but on first smell...there was just a trace of an off-odour. It disappeared with swirling...but it had gotten to the wine. You could feel the power and complexity...but we had been unlucky....

The French were to be saved by an Aussie.... 
5. Penfold Grange Hermitage 1982
South Australia
This had by now been in the decanter for 4 hours...and was an instant success with the group. Still dark colour...complex aromas...it could have been a wine from this century...blackberry fruit...well integrated tannins...fully matured but no signs of collapse...and a perfect match with the Rinderbacken (Beef Cheeks)

Rinderbäckchen

No dessert had been planned...as the next wine is not exactly a 'sweetie'6. Moulin Touchais 1959
Anjou, Loire  
An aquired taste for many...but a wine that keeps you involved and grips you to investigate.
Still very lively...with a dry nutty character...some honey...and walnuts...this was a wine that a magazine said belonged to '100 wines to try before you die'   
Certainly a fascinating experience.   

Robert Stark & Volker

Barry & Karl

A solera wine is basically a wine that is 'topped up' in the cask with similar quality...and at some point put into the bottle. Nowadays a Solera Madeira has to be bottled after the 10th time...but back in the days of old...it was bottled at various times...so no way to check how long this had been in the bottle.
The mere thought that these wines started their lives when the American Civil War was taking place...leaves you in awe.

7. Blandy Madeira Solera 
Malmsey 1863
 Madeira, Portugal
Beautiful tawny colour...mahogony...green-gold....sweet tangy aromas of figs and dry fruit...super wine...and as we sat there and tasted...I looked at the group...and I just wanted the world to stand still for a little longer.
I marked this
Points 18.5

 8. Blandy Madeira Solera 
Gran Cama de Lobos 1864    
Madeira, Portugal
Suffered a touch after it's 'older sister'...not quite as 'sweet'...more bitter sweet...figs and dried tobacco.
Points 17.5

In the Kitchen

We had...as a group...been in and out of the kitchen...clearing the tables...and Volker had helped Karl with the food. A truly memorable evening...was called to a halt at 11pm.
The next morning we breakfasted...and by 10 am were ready to leave. As it was another beautiful day...I convinced the guys that we should make a detour before heading home.

Robert & Volker in Disguise

Thorsten the Snowman

Volker in a Mummelsee Hat

We set off to the Black Forest High Road...stopped off at the Mummelsee...where there was snow and some people were skiing. Wonderful views over the countryside...and we set off for home.
The Cercle du Vin...first meeting...will hopefully be the first of many...