Friday, October 07, 2011
Top Baden Pinot
My wife and I and friends Volker and Steffi at our local Bistro Mitch. Layla, the owner, is a fine host....and the food is always enjoyable. Volker and Steffi were off to Madeira next morning so needed some German wines before their holiday.
Corkage is reasonable...and there is a good atmosphere.
I had brought the bottles in the morning.....and the white was popped into the fridge having been opened.
I knew it needed airing as the previous time I had tasted over two days and the difference had be noticeable.
Riesling Auf der Mauer 2007
Full aroma of yellow fruits...the smell of petroleum hovering...broad structure...acidity within my health limit...layers of fruit on the palate...lovely weight...but keeping it's dry mineral style...some honey...slightly creamy...very good finish.
The last bottle...and at € 15,-- back then...even more of a bargain for the quality.
The two reds were opened at 10am and left to air in the bottle.
I asked Volker to pour into the large glasses while I left the table so that I could appraise them not knowing which was which.
We sniffed at each glass...and went back again..and again...and it was like watching a tennis match as we took in the intriguing aromas of both. This was going to be a real pleasure...and it was five minutes before we took the next step of sipping.
Enderle & Moll
Spätburgunder Muschelkalk 2009
This new property was founded in 2007 in Münchweier in the Ortenau area of Baden...and I only found out about it after returning from my vacation in August.
Some of the vines date back to 1953. The wines gets to spend time in used barrels from top Burgundy estates Domaines Jayer-Gilles and Dujac.
Creamy vanilla aroma developed into a quite strong smell of eucalyptus...in fact the wine as a whole was herby with leather tones and some nougat toffee. Earthy when compared to the Waßmer....the tannins gentle and dry...and a nice weight to it...12.5% which really is seldom.
The colour became more milky as the evening wore on...and I would tend to give this a lot less airing that I did here...that's not to say it suffered...but just that the wine does not need that much fresh air.
Spätburgunder XXL 2009
While never having tasted anything from the previous property...it was easy to decide that this was the Waßmer. Previous vintages I have found the wine top heavy with oak...
but Fritz Waßmer has learned with every vintage...and has reached his destination of making a 'Burgundy' wine in Baden.
A brownish rim would make you think a little older... the strong raspberry aroma filled the glass..and was intoxicating. A complex wine...meaty and juicy all in one...and a lovely mouthful...well integrated oak...and a glass full of delicious Pinot here...and this got better in the glass...so the 12 hours start did it no harm. Only bought 3 bottles of this...and I could gladly drink this once a week....