Monday, September 14, 2015

Rebstock's Wonderful World

Been here many times...and I needed a break away from work...everyday...and the negative world out there.
What better place than the Rebstock's Wonderful World

Friday 28 August 2015

I arrived at midday...a wreck. No way I could turn off..so went for a stroll into the vineyards. The sun had not yet fought it's way through the clouds.
Owner Karl Hodapp joined me on the terrace for a quick chat.









I browsed the food possibilities.
I struggled down to the restaurant that evening...ordered the wine and food...and was amazed at my recovery.
A greeting from the kitchen...cucumber terrine...which I have grown to love.
My memories of the vegetable had always been food issued by the wives when I had played cricket.
Cucumber Sandwiches. Talk about repeating on you!

The starter was 3 tasters...always a must when you visit the Rebstock. The fish was Dorsch (Hake)





I needed an injection of Riesling tonight...and not too much acidity...as I intended to finish most of what was in the bottle. Karl always get his glass in the kitchen


Robert Weil Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling trocken 2007
Rheingau, Germany

I loved this...floral notes...peaches...perfect time with the minerals and acidity stroking the Rheingau fruit. Exciting wine...harmonious...just my style.
Points 17.75


Saturday 29 August 2015
I have decided not to go to breakfast...as I hardly eat at home at that time of day. A piece of bread and butter and a glass of milk and I was off to Achern for a massage. You would not have guessed how hot it would be later as the forest clung to the clouds.


Strangely...after a massage...I always have an appetite...and was on the terrace for lunch. Forelle(Trout)...from the area...was delicious...and then into Smoker's Corner for a cigar...Leaf...long and satisfying. Then a stroll with the headphones on...at a 5pm I went to refresh.



As on the previous evening...it was warm enough to sit outside. I had asked the service to open the Pichler 5 hours in advance.
The Wachtel(Quail) is with Blood Würst...so I decided on a light salad to prepare myself.




F. X. Pichler Loibner Steinertal Riesling 2012
Wachau, Austria
Peaches...complex....still very young. Thankfully the striking minerals drag back the upfront baby fat.
Points 17.25 at the moment...
 
Sunday 30 August 2015
Slept long...then bread and butter...and off high into the vineyards...through the woods and down to the Zuckerbergschloss. It was hot...and an alcohol free beer and some Reibeküchle. Then down through Kappelrodeck...up the steep hill and back down the vineyards. The sun was beating down...not a complaint...just a fact. A quick shower and change...then coffee and cigar outside with the terrace full of guests.

Again a beautiful evening...
Perlhühn (Guinea-Fowl) was the main course choice...



The evening's drinking...
A bottle I had brought with me...
Polz Sauvignon Blanc Hochgrassnitzberg Vinotheksfüllung 2007
South Styria, Austria
I have the Reserve of this vintage...and thought I had found a couple of bottles of the same from a merchant. On arrival here in Waldulm I saw the label...but as the Vinotheksfüllung can be a step up I had great expectations. This seems to be a little fatter and could have done with more zip. These wines have nothing to do with ripe gooseberries or cat's pee and can be a revelation if you try them for a first time.
Points 17...going to leave the other bottle in the cellar and hope it becomes competition for the 'Reserve'




Monday 31 August 2015
Another gorgeous day.



Warm Goose-Liver and 'Schnittchen' of Pike-Perch & Salmon...were the choices as I sat out again on the terrace.
On the next table were a couple...Karl had placed them there I think as he had been told they knew about wine. They did...something you notice with a few exchanges. They were drinking the Gantenbein Pinot Noir 2009...which was a real coincidence. The previous evening they had drank the Gutedel 10 Hoch 4 and the half of the Gantenbein Riesling 2011. Gantenbein changed the style in 2013 to be dryer...but the 2011 had some rest sweetness...so had been left overnight to try with a dessert. I was offered a glass and the evening ended with us agreeing to meet for dinner the following day. 



Gantenbein Chardonnay 2011
Fläsch, Switzerland
Complex aroma...grapefruit, nougat, candied honey. The palate is full...a touch too much...but I wanted to try it...so cannot blame the wine. As it aired the acidity popped up...and the wine gained length. A wine to share at the moment...
Points 17.25


Tuesday 01 September 2015
I had made an appointment at my favourite Thai massage. The lady has power and 90 minutes later my shoulders and neck were feeling the benefit.
The threatened rain appeared at midday and the temperature fell by 10 degrees. I had been to Achern to buy shoes and found a pleasant eatery to eat a salad with Maultaschle. 
At 5pm I asked Bettina to open and decant another of the bottles I had brought with me. 
Knoll Loibner Riesling Smaragd Vinothekfüllung 2006
Wachau, Austria

The couple arrived...Caroline und Franz-Josef.
I told them one wine was from my cellar...and they told me to choose 2 others for the evening.
As I have happy memories of the Keller Kirchspiel 2011 and it was chosen.
The Knoll was a touch disappointing with an unbalanced sweetness...needs time on this tasting.
The first red of the holiday...Knipser Reserve du Patron 2009 went very well with the Entrecote. See later in the week for a repeat drinking.
No notes were made...we chatted until late and enjoyed food and wines 



Wednesday 02 September 2015
Took me ages to drag myself out of bed...I think the relax mode is finally setting in.
A repeat of the walk through the vines and down to the Zuckerbergschloss...and the pleasant fall in temperature making it an easier version.






Ziereisen Gutedel 10 Hoch 4
Baden, Germany
Had this last year...then in April...and again with our monthly meeting...and it pleases every time. Will be interesting to see how it develops...the balance is perfect...and the fruit lingers...all the components for a fairly long life.
Points 18



Thursday 03 September 2015
A long hike up the opposite side...lunch on the terrace...half portion of Dorsch. A cigar and a Latte...then watched a couple of episodes of an English comedy...'Men Behaving Badly'...so funny.



As I had only 'shared' the bottle of the Knipser on Tuesday...I needed some more...and had actually forgotten to take a photo...as the dinner guests had taken my attention.

Knipser Spätburgunder Reserve du Patron 2009
Pfalz, Germany
Medium deep...and  aromas of cherries and plums from the glass. 
This is not the sweet Pinot...but typical of the Pfalz and very Knipser in style. 
Fine tannins...like veins pumping through the ripe body..and an earthy texture. 
If I had to describe this in a few words...a Pinot for Cabernet Sauvignon lovers.
Points 17.5


As a starter...one of the classics...Schneckenrahmsuppe...Snail Soup. I had noted an addition the evening before...Bauernente...and a perfect match for the red.


Friday 04 September 2015
Sat in the corner...
Tasters from the kitchen...Pfifferling Terrine...Pumpkin Soup...then a Steak with Münster Potatoes....






Huber Hecklinger Schlossberg 2008
was opened...but not in good condition...a sour touch.
The next choice...



Adeneuer Walporzheimer Gärkammer Spätburgunder GG 2009
Ahr, Germany
Medium deep with pale rim...cherries...closed at first...dark vanilla...black fruits...and it enjoyed the steak as much as I did.
Points 17.25


Saturday 05 August 2015
I had asked waitress Claudi if there were any Asia restaurants in the area...having the need for a Thai curry. Bühl had been the answer...so...having dragged myself out of bed...I arrived midday. It was OK...not typically Thai...offerings were from China to Vietnam. The little town was bustling with Market Day. On the way back I collected chocolates from Cafe Glatt in Achern then returned to my 'home' for a Latte.

Familia Nin Ortiz Selma de Nin 2012
Catalonia / Spain
A wine that fascinates...the Rousanne heads you to south France...then the Marsanne to north Spain...this also needs air...I had forgotten that...when last tasted it had been aired. Large glass and then sit back and wait...
It just never reached the heights from a few months ago when Robert had produced it alongside my Gutedel from Ziereisen. Was still evolving when I sent a glass into the kitchen. Karl agreed it was not showing as I had promised.
Points 17
Sunday 06 August 2015
The weather was cool...grey clouds...but there were blue spaces...and I set off for a last walk. Arrived at Zuckerbergschloss and the sun came out.
At about 5pm I met with Karl...he had 30 minutes...and we chatted. We must meet again when he has time...I understand...only something you can associate with when you are self-employed.

Pfifferling Vol-au-Vent as a 'last' greeting from the kitchen.
All 4 'tasters' (hey..last night...so understandable)



Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia 2004
Tuscany, Italy

Just 'Ornellaia' between friends...
Ripe blackcurrants...tobacco, leather and cedar...sounds like an old style Bordeaux...and it is that good. Finessse and elegance.

The first mouthful is again...elegant...dusty silky tannins...perfect balance.
Graphite...and a faint sweetness to tempt you again and again. What a wine to finish my holday with. Sent a LARGE glass into the Kitchen...report came back...very positive.

Points 18.5

Monday 07 September 2015
If you gotta go...then go as soon as possible. No point hanging about. A quick chat with Karl...I had ordered two quail and some Spätzle to take home. See you soon...I said...was not there long enough to see it the sun made it over the hills.








Sunday, August 09, 2015

Home of Riesling

Alsace is where I drank my first Riesling wines...all those long years ago.
Trimbach, Zind-Humbrecht etc...bring back great memories.
Somehow, for me, Alsace was the home of Riesling

On my recent holiday in Rottach-Egern I had drank the 2008 version...and the restaurant kindly sold me a bottle to take away ( thinking it was the same vintage). On arriving home I saw the follow-on vintage...2009
Michel Fonne Riesling Mambourg Grand Cru 2009
Alsace, France
The vines are from a 35 years old vineyard. The soil is sandstone.
Just how I like them...temps you to go and have another glass.Dry, delicately grapey, and has an elegant bouquet with mineral and floral notes.
Points 17




Boxler Riesling Sommerberg JV 2009
Alsace, France

The JV stands for Jeunes Vignes...but no worries...this is delicious.
Citrus aroma...instantly appealing to me...apple pie.
Medium bodied, fresh and rich all in one. Another you look forward to sipping again. I have a couple of the properties flagship wines...and this is a very good 'starter'.
Points 17.25


Across the border into Baden...somewhere I seldom go to for Riesling.

Sven Nieger Riesling Mauerberg 2012
Baden, Germany

Salty...really...the minerals are dosed with it. Closed at first but developed body with airing. Still too young to maybe show all it's muscle. Apricots and apples...and the palate shows honey and soft spicy notes.
If you are tempted to try this...give is a good airing.
I purchased 3 bottles so the other 2 will rest awhile down south in the cellar.
Points 17.25

Thursday, August 06, 2015

Riesling Rules Again!

Time flies...and a month had past since the three of us had last covered up bottles to try at our local eatery.
A table in the garden had been reserved...and thankfully the heavy rain cleared to give us a medium warm summer evening.
I only live round the corner...which as it turned out...was a big plus.

Volker's wine we had opened and tasted by the time Robert arrived.
It had a closed metallic smell and a not too forthcoming flavour.

Domaine Pierre André Chateuaneuf-du-Pape Blanc
Rhone, France

It was better later with the food.
Maybe going through a stage of not wanting to be loved.


Robert arrived and his wine was tasted next.

While doing this I offered to go home and get another bottle as 'substitute'
for the Chateuaneuf-du-Pape Blanc.

Food was a Tapas plate.

Back in 10 minutes...I concentrated on Robert's offering.



Polish Hill Riesling 2013
Clare Valley, Australia

Now...you have to enjoy your moments of success in life...as around the corner...you are usually taken down a notch.

We guess the grape, country and so on.
Riesling I said, Robert nodded.
New World I said, Robert nodded
and I remember trying a version of this wine a few years ago.
Robert's look told me I was on to a winner.
Polish Hill I said and Robert nodded....then I made a guess at 2011 as it was very palatable.
2013 was the answer...you cannot be 100% correct Barry...and I enjoyed the compliments without overdoing it. Already the petrol tones are detectable. This is hovering at the moment...waiting to open and thrill you...minerals and slate. Lively...and not as austere as I remember previous vintages in their youth. Lovely.
Points 17.5 and potentially more...
I had insisted that my wine would be the last of the three whites...
Opened 2 hours before...



Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel 2001
Wachau, Austria

A bargain from Ebay.
What an great smell...creamy stone fruits. Some petrol...and a touch of quince.
The guys just took ages to guess the vintage...which is completely understandable. The mineral veins wrap this up nicely. Without them you would be looking maybe at a dessert-style wine. Citrus acidity...peach palate...long finish. Very lovely.
Points 18.25
The red was also very good.

Kreuzberg Schieferlay Spätburgunder 2011

Ahr, Germany
Earthy, slate...tobacco on the palate.
Points 17.25

Monday, July 27, 2015

Edi And The Gang

Back in the early part of the last century there was a comedian, dancer actor called Eddie Cantor.The spelling is completely different...but the name attracted me.

Edi Kante La Bora di Kante Chardonnay 2006
Friaul, Italy 
Delightful creamy texture...nutty...fresh acidity...lovely balance to this wine...and opened up well in large glass. Almost forgot....smell good as well. Oak not too dominant...very pure. Aged for 24 months in old barrels then aged in bottle 5 years before release.
Points 17.25


 
Ziereisen Gutedel Steingrüble 2012
Baden, Germany

After the '10 hoch 4' 2012...this is a step down of course...but then again...costs only a 10th of the big brother. Salty, a touch bitter...not negative...pears...loads of chunky minerals and some citrus fruit. A little young maybe....but already giving good value.
Points 16


Wittmann Riesling Kirchspiel GG 2012
Rheinhessen, Germany
'Kindermord' you could say...but I am on Wittmann trip.
Citrus dominant...mandarine fruit...really lively acidity. Waxy...bitter-sweet finish.
Points 17.5



    Riesling, Roter And A Red

    Daughter number 3 had a birthday...and she wanted the family to go to our favourite Thai restaurant. She is not a wine drinker...nor is daughter number 2. Daughter number 1 is...and she had made it after having had an operation 2 days before. Her husband makes up the Vino-Trio.
    I packed the two whites in all that was cold...and as a bonus...a red. With the hot weather red would not have been the correct choice...but we have a cooling period at the moment. The food was gorgeous...and I had a starter of Lab Gai. Dangerously spicy...it begs for a Riesling. I knew the Gaisberg would not be as good as the recent Heiligenstein...but was pleasantly surprised.

    Hirsch Riesling Gaisberg 2009
    Wachau, Austria
    Flat is not the correct description...just that is not as lively as it's brother. 
    It was still a delight though..
    Points 16.75


    Wine number two has a story. My first try had been at a local wine Bistro a year ago...where I had taken a bottle along. It had impressed all who had a sip. I decided to purchase 6 bottles...but the delivery turned out to be twelve. Over the last year it has been the 'present' whenever we were guests at friends. The feedback had been very positive. Now...with 3 bottles left it was time to try it again.
    Josef Fritz Roter Veltliner Steinberg Privat 2012
    Wagram, Austria
    The nose has changed...the full fruit instant crowd-pleaser has become a delicate ripe aroma of almonds and honey. Thrilling minerals and a match for my Thai red curry. What a winner. The owner was offered a glass as he is very fair when I take my own wines. He beamed his Thai smile. The other two bottles will not be 'presented' unless of course they open them with me present.
    Points 17.5

    With the curry still available...we tried the Pinot Noir. With the food in mind...I had opted for a softer style...tannins do not harmonise with spices.

    Schubert Pinot Noir Marion’s Vineyard 2010
    Martinborough, New Zealand

    Only a trace of spiky strawberries...otherwise soft, rounded, creamy and silky. Maybe a touch too much....a zip of anger would make this a very good wine...nevertheless...not to be sneezed at.
    Points 17


     

    The Clarity Of Wittmann

      Wittmann Riesling Aulerde GG 2009
      Rheinhessen, Germany
      A 3 bottle offer on Ebay. Drank over a couple of days using the Corovin as there were other wines that needed attention also. This one slipped down beautifully. Easy to taste...all components in harmony. Apples....juicy ones. You may wish for more fruit and less acidity...or vice versa...depending on your love of Riesling...but sometimes it just seems to be exactly what you want on the gorgeous summer evenings. Wittmann's Morstein and Brunnenhauhäuschen would have still been hard work...but Aulerde...simpler, without expecting too much...is perfect now. 
      There is clarity in Wittmann Riesling...and I enjoy them.
      Points 17.25

    Sunday, July 26, 2015

    M Is For Marvelous


    A cooling summer evening and we sat outside at our local Bistro.
    Our guests were Flo, Christiane, Lisa and Merle( my Godchild )
    Food delicious...

    Seafood Salad

    Merle's Favourite

    Two whites from the land of many treasures.



    First up...a wine I saw was still available...so one reason to open the final one from the cellar.
    Hirsch Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein 2009
    Wachau, Austria

    Trace of honey...but no way fat. The veins of youth no longer it's style. Now rounded....soft...even a touch un-riesling like. Palate of yellow apples...minerals of course...you just have to enjoy this...it begs you. Good length and good wine.
    Points 17.5




    F. X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner M 2005
    Wachau, Austria

    A recent purchase from Ebay.
    June is always a good month for 'bargains'  € 60,--
    I always wonder why such great wine is no longer wanted.
    Great! Did I say great? Well for me...certainly a memorable one.
    Just the nose leaves you wide-eyed. Nuts and almonds...fresh bread...honeyed. You worry that the rest will not comply...but dear readers...worry no more. Creamy texture...heaps of fruit...spice and pepper...the usual dose of minerals. Complex and pretty wonderful. Flo had tried the 2010 vintage recently...much too young...so I was glad to share this 10 year at a perfect time. Will hold for many years.
    Now...where do I find another bottle? 
    Points 18.75



    Thursday, July 02, 2015

    The Return of the Trio

    Finally...hot weather...and what a hot!. I am not complaining...but as usual...others are.
    Our monthly meeting at Schaab Louis and I had reserved a table in the shade...in the garden.
    Those who did not...suffered.
    Robert happiliy agreed to let us try his wine first...I was also happy to be first...as I knew Volker would have a ripe Riesling...and we learn by our mistakes.



    Familia Nin Ortiz Selma de Nin 2012
    Catalonia / Spain

    After the first whiff from the glass...I knew I had competition.
    This is a mix of Rousanne, Marsanne and Chenin Blanc.
    Smokey, creamy aroma...you just have to go back again and again.
    Citrus and lime tones...and with airing there were traces of marzipan.
    It reminded me of a Grüner Veltliner. The palate throws up a zingy minerality...which you thank it for...as after the smell you do not want a fruit-cake. Complex and a very good finish make this a real eye-opener.

    Very good indeed.
    Points 18


    Ziereisen Gutedel 10 Hoch 4 2011
    Baden, Germany

    I have had this 3 times...and look forward to drinking it at my holiday haunt.
    A while ago I had ordered...in a frenzy maybe...a bottle from a merchant.

    It is not cheap....but as it had arrived...what better way to empty it than with good wine friends.
    Opened 4 hours before drinking...and served in a large Burgundy glass.
    Close your eyes and you are in Burgundy. Nutty oak...seductive...layed-back style...intense minerality...memories of Puligny Montrachet. 

    The guys gave up guessing what it was...but I can hardly criticise...Gutedel
    extra special.
    Points 17.75



    Clemens Busch Riesling Marienburg Fahrlay
    Grosses Gewächs 2009
    Mosel, Germany

    Instant ripe Riesling...had to be a 2009
    Well-balanced and very much the style of Clemens Busch.
    Quite intense minerals...fine fruit...maybe cpould have asked for more air...

    but we were not listening after the first two.
    Points 16.75








    Wednesday, June 24, 2015

    Hindsight

    Hindsight...which for those who may not know...means being wiser after the event. Yes...I know you may have known...but the SMS gang don't read any more.

    Case 1
    Japanese Food
    This was easy to change...just swill the glass and try them alternatively.

    Erwin Sabathi Sauvignon Blanc Merveilleux 2011
    South Styria, Austria

    Flintstone...salty...crispy structure...spicy minerals...classic gooseberry...still lively.
    Points 17.25





    Ott Grüner Veltliner Stein 2011
    Wagram, Austria
    Known as the King of Grüner Veltliner...I find them MUCH TOO FAT in their youth...but this is the real thing. Stone fruits...again the spicy minerals which make the wines perfect for eastern food. Sweet melons....smokey...delicious fruit layers....even exotic.
    Points 17.25


    Case 2
    Monthly Meeting
    Supposed to be with 3 whites but Robert produced a red.

    Volker offered his blind bottle first and made it all the more difficult for my
    elegant layed-back Chardonnay. Sips of water in between...but the memory cells
    still remind you of the first wine.

    Kühling-Gillot Riesling Niersteiner Ölberg GG 2009
    Rhgeinhessen, Germany

    The up-front fruit and touch of Restsüß was a winner.
    Points 17



    Christian Zündel Chardonnay Dosso 2010
    Tessin, Switzerland

    Delicate...but real potential...complex...racy...creaminess developed.
    Points 16.75
    but more to come...

    Have another bottle of this...will be treated more gently next time.


    Case 3
    La Fattoria

    Meeting with Flo and his family at our favourite Italian Restaurant.
    Flo who was with me in April at the Rebstock.
    The Polz had knocked me out when I tried a lost bottle from my cellar a few months ago. Quite by chance...I found another odd bottle on a merchant's list.
    The Keller Abtserde 2012 vintage in April had been very impressive...so I decided Austria first...then Germany.




    Polz Sauvignon Blanc Hochgrassnitzberg Reserve 2007
    South Styria, Austria

    What can I say...it was perfect. Like a hedgehog dressed up for a glitzy ball...soft spiky minerals with velvety cream...and very silky. The nose threw up raspberries...bananas...the gooseberries showed on the palate. Polz claims his top wines can age for 10 years. At 7 years old it seems he knows what he saying. The fatness of youth has been whittled away.

    Points 18



    Keller Riesling Abtserde 2010
    Rheinhessen, Germany
    Did this suffer after the top Styria...maybe...but I found this full of unreadiness at first.

    We worked on it...citrus and apple fruit...Keller's Riesling wines are very terroir...no dressing up...take me as I should be taken...acidity still quite dominant...layers of hidden delights...you can feel this will be very fine indeed.
    Just not at the moment...tasted before the Polz may have given it a better marking.
    Points 17.5

    Food was, as usual, great.




    Pichler Perfect

    A break in the summer...so a quick walk in case it rained...to a local eatery.
    As it was cool I thought I should be taking a red wine along to drink...but a white it was.
    The starter was some fresh Calamari with salad...followed by some Turbot.

    Not being a big fan of Robert Parker's style of wines...I have to agree with his comments...
    'F.X. Pichler is the Chateau Latour, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Zind-Humbrecht, Sandrone and Helen Turley of the Wachau'

    There was some discussion in certain wine circles in Germany and Austria about the 2011 Pichler wines. Some long-term customers of Weingut F.X. Pichler claimed to have detected some unpleasant notes in the wines recently and have communicated their findings on facebook.
    A tasting with experts and the vineyard owner Lucas...found the wines to be perfect.
    Media madness!

    Franz Xaver passed over the reins to son Lucas in 1999.


    F.X. Pichler Loibner Steinertal Riesling  Smaragd 2011
    Wachau, Austria

    Reined in nose...more elegant than many Smaragd...a touch of honey and a trace of lychees.
    Crunchy minerals...citrus fruits...lovely weight in the mouth...surprisingly ready...complex but easy to please.
    What a delicious wine...and the bottle emptied.
    Points 18