Wine & Water

Hotel Restaurants are usually a no-no! The reason for our visit to Favorite in Mainz was on the recommendation of fellow blogger Alex.
There was a new wind blowing....with Tim Meierhans now in charge of all things edible.

Six of us arrived on a Sunday evening....My wife & I, our eldest daughter and husband-to-be and the parents of my godchild. The photo is my daughter & I...yes...I know it is hard to believe...but we are not the same age!
Weather outside...slightly cloudy skies...so the chance of sitting out on the terrace were null. Frau Abend is in charge of the restaurant and the staff were well drilled. We ordered menus and A La Carte...but it was no problem for Frau Abend....very flexible.

I had received the wine-list per email...2 days in advance....this saves me getting impatient looks from fellow guests...although....they know it is worth the wait. So....the Sommelier arrived...and I showed her my list...and the four wines were decided. Now...the whole evening the general consensus of opinion was...really excellent food....across the board...it is not cheap here...but quality abounds...and it was a complete success.
Why am I giving kudos up front.....?....well....here we go.
Two things always annoy me in top restaurants. Firstly...the constant filling up of water glasses...even when they are 2/3 full...we know why of course....at € 8,-- a bottle...there is profit to make. I have learned to live with this. My problem this evening was....I said to Frau Kantwerk...the Sommelier … as were were finished ordering...'I have 2 wishes...please don't fill the white wine glasses with too much wine..as it is warm here in the restaurant..and..only fill them when the glass is empty'. It makes sense...and all seemed clear. You think so?....The second part was managed...BUT....the first wine arrived...I was given a small drop to taste...then on to our guests...and guess what...mighty drops into the glass...and even after the first...I said..not so much...but it seemed it was something strange for them. The second bottle of white had been decanted...and the same procedure....it got to the point where we passed the glass from guest to guest to share out. Now...I'm not saying they filled to the brim...let's make that clear...BUT...it was a warm evening...and 5 minutes in the glass...etc. As one guest said...'it seems the learning curve of the lady is low'. Maybe the 'water system' was in use.....fill up the glasses in the hope we sell more. At first it was annoying...then irritating...and as we left..I pointed it out to Frau Abend. Next time....bottle next to the table...I will serve the wines. Which brings me to marks for the whole evening. Food, wine-list etc. 8 out of 10....so you see...we enjoyed it...just that some people have 'cloth ears' as the saying goes...and don't listen.
And so to the wines...not too much noted as the conversation was priority.

Eric & Walter Polz Hochgrassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Steiermark, Austria
It had been a choice between Sabathi's Pössnitzberg 2007 or this one. The 2007 was now the 2008...so that decided it. With all the New World SB's around...I have to admit I am wary ordering the grape. That 'over-done' gooseberry is not what appeals. The other question here was....too young?...and therefore not a good opening for our guest. No worries though...an aromatic opening...intense grassy smell...pineapples....yes...and gooseberry...but nicely done...juicy with good filling....it was just lovely...and has loads of things telling you this will also age.
Points 16.75



Keller Westhofen Kirchspiel Riesling trocken GG 2008
Rheinhessen, Germany
This had been decanted...which was just as well...because otherwise it would have been more closed. Potential...and maybe should have been tried before the Polz. A layer of smells and flavours....grapefruit, citrus....and the palate shows minerality extreme. At the moment ...a racy youth...and bound for a long mature future...but not easy at the moment. Alex had tried the 2007 and commented very positively...but...he is a lover of young Riesling. Difficult to appraise with the meal...At the moment....
Points 16.75
Maybe the lesser wine 'Von der Fels' 2008 would have been a better choice for the evening.




Kuhn Mandelberg Spätburgunder trocken Barrique2006
Pfalz, Germany
There were a few wines on the list that I had already tried...and this was one of them.
I knew what I was getting here. So full of aroma...strwaberry and marzipan...still a touch firm...but good Pinot needs that tannin to
show it's very best. Creamy..and it evolves in
the glass...exciting wine.
Points 17.75









Karl Johner Spätburgunder SJ trocken 2002
Baden, Germany
The memory of a memorable 2003 drank a couple of years ago...urged me to try this...although...at the back of my mind I was a little tentative. I maybe should have listened to that little guy back there. Not dead yet...but the sweet fruit is becoming a little 'mouldy'...no doubt a decent drink a couple of year ago...
Points 15








Those were the four wines...but the poor showing of the Johner meant a quick decision...
and there was a very good selection of cheeses....and we tried all of them.
They cried out for a Bordeaux....so I chose the German version.
Knipser Cuvee X 2005
Pfalz, Germany
A year ago with friends...I opened my last bottle of the 2003 vintage...which was suberb.
Talking to them recently..they told me they had purchased a double magnum and had drank it at Christmas. It was ages away from maturity....which...is normal in a large bottle. This 2005 in the usual size....is very good indeed...but needs maybe 2 years to attain the 2003 standard. Deep opaque colour...power...sweet cassis nose...packed with fruit...long...and with substance. The cheese needed this...and this needed the cheese.
Points 17.25

A Birthday Bash

And so to another Birthday.....I've been a '60 something' for a few years now...my mispent youth was in the Beatles' years...they even wrote a song about my age....'When I grow older, losing my hair (still got plenty)...many years from now....will I still be drinking German Pinot Noir'...or at least...that should have been the lyric!
Family & Friends...we met up to eat, drink, be merry...and in my case...suffer the next day.
The wines...well...a white of my favourite grape nowadays...another white from Italy...my favourite Sauvignon Blanc...and then 4 German Pinots from the excellent 2007 Vintage
Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Rebe 2005
Niederösterreich, Austria
Rich 'old vine' nose...white melon...ripe apples..still steely...grew in glass...even 2 hours after opening
Points 16.25






Vie di Romans Piere Sauvignon 2005
Friaul, Italy
Showing age I thought...but it can't be...then the reason...not a definite 'cork'...but most definitely 'tainted'. Something had fallen into this one...and ruined any total enjoyment. Strangely...if I had pulled the only other bottle I have from my cellar...we would no doubt we waxing lyrically about it.
Points...not scored




The block of four reds were planned...the first 3 had all received the same 'marks' in Gault Millau...
Hartmut Schlumberger Spätburgunder S 2007
Baden, Germany
I had tried the top wine a few days ago....this was slightly jammy...not a negative in these basic wines...smokey...lots of juice...and backbone...
Points 16







Weingut Schumacher Garten Spätburgunder 2007
Pfalz, Germany
Medium deep...gentle sweet strawberry...and the earthy style of the Pfalz. Some tasters rated this one higher...other prefered the Schlumberger. The price would swing it...this costs € 19,--
Points 16





Weingut Michel Achkarrer Schlossberg Spätburgunder *** 2007
Baden, Germany
At €19,-- this was the winner of the three...complex nose...elegant...touch of vanilla...and a good backbone...I have tried this before and it was no surprise to see it do well.
Points 16.75




The last wine was a Großes Gewächs.
Phillip Kuhn Steinbuckel Grosses Gewächs Pinot Noir 2007
Pfalz, Germany
Cherry fruit...a slab of marzipan on the palate...backward, compared to all the others...but give it a year or two...real pedigree
Points 17.25

Buchholz 2

A second visit to this highly rated restaurant..Buchholz....the four of us enjoying a fine evening.... Short notes on the 2 wines....the other 3 enjoyed the food...as did I...but I am still waiting to be wowed here...and a small potato addition to the main course would be a plus.
Philipp Kuhn Chardonnay 2008
Pfalz, Germany
This used to be the 'Mandelpfad'.I smelled pear...our guest thought kiwi fruit..fresh acidity of youth..plenty of minerals here..and the fruit filled out with a swirl or two..good structure...leave it a year...
Points 16.25











Meyer-Näkel Walporzheimer Kräuterberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2006 Ahr, Germany
After trying the Pfarrwingert on my last visit...this seemed to be more backward...a wild style..dry earth fruit...this spends 16 months in 70% new oak...it had been decanted on the advice of the waiter...sometimes with young wines it can be advisable to open and drink...a dry smoke feel..some hidden layers of marzipan...better with food at the moment...the tannins and structure suggest this will see better days in 3-4 years.
Points 17.5
Some photos of the food for all the foodies...

Drinking Between Phone Calls

As the business has been taking most of my time recently....the daily ritual has been to go into the cellar shortly before dinner...choose a bottle I deserved for my efforts that day...and just try to enjoy and relax.
The 3 that follow were welcome 'payment'....and as the phone inevitably rings during a meal...only sparse notes of the wines....
Weinmanufaktur Untertürkheimer Lemberger Barrique *** trocken 2004
Württemberg, Germany
Dumb nose at first....not too forthcoming....but was better after the first phone call. Thick juice..intense...berry bomb with chewy topping..built to last.....earthy ..reminded me of old style Bordeaux.
Points 16.5






Sirloin Tips in a creamy sauce with Pasta.....can't remember which day...but I remember how good it was.

Sometime in between all these wines..I opened a bargain. I say that as it was a gift with the case of Spanish wines I purchased. Even if you had to pay for this..it still gives you plenty for your dollar..price was about € 4,-- Cepunto..no vintage visible..100% Tempranillo...furry tannins....raspberry fruit...liquorice...and my wife used some in a sauce..commenting..'Perfect for cooking'


Kuhn Kirschgarten PinotNoir G.G. trocken 2006
Pfalz, Germany
I like Kuhn's wines.....his Sauvignon Blanc had impressed..as had the other Spätburgunder of this vintage. First impression...class...Pfalzer terroir..excellent balance..lovely weight in the mouth..and a fine even finish. This held up over 2 days which says a lot for this fine grower.
Points 17.5




Reinhold & Cornelia Scheider
Spätburgunder *** C trocken 2006
Baden, Germany
Priced at € 20,--.......this offers a perfumed wine. Fruit driven..elegant..small strawberries..but no softy..plenty of grip...which gave pleasure a day later. Another property you can rely on.
Points 17

Three Oohs, Three Ahhs, & An 18 Pointer

Our regular meeting at the local Bistro...I had to try some of the newer additions to the cellar....the usual 'mob' was with me...

Kuhn Sauvignon Blanc Mandelpfad trocken 2008
Pfalz, Germany
I had the 2007 in March..any was very impressed...but no more available....so when this 2008 came onto the market I snapped up 3 bottles. Open and sniffed...and the SB is very dominant...but with airing and an octopus salad as partner..it lost the extreme smell and showed spices, a good weight...trace of the melons...thinking back..the 2007 was opened well in advance..and was a great vintage..so I should not be too critical and try this again in 2-3 months with maybe a decant (don't hold me to the decant....it all seems hard work with white wine..and is a devil to keep cool)
Points 16.5

R & C Schneider Spätburgunder 2006' Parzelle Schönenberg'
Baden, Germany
Ah...regulars will know I have tried the 2005 a few times at 'Rebstock' in Waldulm....and had heard that the 2006 was better!!!! Tried to find some...nada...but as it is with us vino-nuts..the wine gods look down on us...and reward us for good choices...I was checking a wine-list on the net...finding nothing that really appealed...and there in the middle..was this wine. I went mad..and ordered 6 bottles..and this evening wanted to share it with Volker & Robert. So..how was it...well firstly...I had decided we would try this..then the Rioja...which was the correct order....but as you will read...we should have maybe finished this bottle first...ah..hindsight..that's not to say this was not very good...and could well attain the heights of the 2005...certainly tighter and reined in...lovely strawberry fruit..and soft tannin coating..more 'serious' than the voluptuous '05..so I am not worried that the other 5 are down below.
Points 17.25...but let's try this again..on it's own-some..
Óscar Tobía Reserva 2004
Rioja, Spain
...and so to the Spanish Sinner...that left us in awe....opened and smelled...man..this is good..intense minerals...sour cherries and plums...a trace of the oak...the worry I had that this was gonna be a 'Blockbuster Fruit Monster' (14%) was foundless..a wonderful easy feeling on the palate..fills the mouth..roasted tones...this is 90% Tempranillo and 10% Otras and spends 21 months in French and Hungarian oak...but no worries about soft sweet woodiness..this is 'new Spain'..we kept oohing and ahhing..and comparing it to Roda and the likes...wonderful texture and a long finish....which I had better do now.
Points 18....without reservation.
and the price...€ 23,--!!!!!



The evening finished with some cigars and banter....ain't life good?

Birthday Burgunders

As I had a birthday..I decided to hold a comparative tasting of 2006 Spätburgunder wines from Germany...all from the 2006 Vintage. They are 60 years younger than the birthday boy (which should make it easy to calculate my age..although nowadays TOO many folk need a gadget to add up....whatever happened to that organ between the ears?).....anyway..your 49-year old Blogger chose 4 different areas...the wines from the lower to middle price range..and..by a strange coincident (it had to be..my Birthday always falls at the same time)..Lyle, a fellow blogger had been at a tasting..where the 1st and last flights had been excellent..but he had been disappointed by the middle flight of a range of Germany wines. My 4 would have wiped the floor with them. There are some excellent wines and values for this type of Spätburgunder..but, of course, they are not available to those across the waters.
As a starter with Calamares and Gambas...a real gem of an Sauvignon Blanc.
Kuhn Sauvignon Blanc
Mandelpfad trocken 2007
Pfalz, Germany
Green fruit aroma..and some Kiwi..and almons..a trace of gooseberry..but 'my type'...I am not a lover of the overdone type of Sauvignon Blanc....as it opened..it became intense..sweet melons and ended with a lingering finish..this was very good..and at € 12,--..a real snip
Points 17.25

Except for a few growers..Rheinhessen was never really known for good wines..but that is all changing. The property Kühling-Gillot is one of the up & coming ones..founded in it's prese& Gabi Kühling..and since 2002..has been run by daughter Caroline..along with her husband Hans Oliver Spanier..

Kühling-Gillot Spätburgunder trocken 2006
Rheinhessen, Germany
Pale colour..cool..elegant smell of soft marzipan..enticing red fruits...agreeable burnt smoke..as it opened..there was cream..ripe fruits...not a BIG wine..this costs € 10,--
and it's worth every cent...a great start to the tasting
Points 16.5

Jacob Duijn used to be a 'sommelier'..he worked for the top cook Eckart Witzigmann in Munich..and he is from Holland..and was rated highly in Baden...but the recent vintages 2004 & 2005 were maybe not up to standard. However, with 2006, everything seems to be back in order. Duijn produces only Pinot Noir..and they all spend time in new oak barrels.
Duijn Alsenhof
Spätburgunder trocken 2006
Baden, Germany
Good red colour..more serious..
aroma of raspberry fruit..bitter almonds..
mushrooms..earthy..smoke..
nicely integrated oak..
this needed a little time in the glass..
then showed character and depth.
Points 16.75

The wines from Rudolf Fürst do make it abroad...his top wines are available..but highly priced. His 'R' Spät & Frühburgunder wines are not to be missed...but I chose his 'simpler' Centgrafenberg...of which the 2006 was better that 2005.

Fürst Spätburgunder Centgrafenberg 2006
Franken, Germany
Centgrafenberg’s success derives from its limestone soil (similar to parts of Burgundy) and its south-facing slopes, enabling the vines to soak up the maximum heat from Franken’s hot, dry summers. Always intriguiging comparing areas like this..Franken..of course.. has another style..and this was aged in mostly French oak..40% of which is new..for 16 months..soft spices..and the appeal of marzipan and sour cherry..fine balance and freshness..elegant..
Points 17

The final wine is a Grosses Gewächs (First Growth)...and from the property we started with..book-ends to a fascinating evening.
Kuhn Mandelberg Spätburgunder 2006
Pfalz, Germany
At € 25,--and the most expensive wine of the flight..but here is real class...perfect..just perfect...medium deep colour...thick fruit on the nose..dark berries..cream..and this followed onto the palate..a light peppery touch..perfect balance....mmmm....tasty.
Points 17.75


Back home...my youngest daughter presented me with a 'birthday cake'...