Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Bavaria 2014 - Return to Tegernsee

Our visit last year at the end of April was lucky as to the fact that the weather wasn't 'half bad'. We had left and for the three weeks after there had been storms. Tegernsee is half surrounded by mountains...and the weather has a mind of it's own.
This time we had booked the middle two weeks of May...same apartment in same hotel...Haltmair am See.
Arriving on a sunday...which had meant a pleasant drive down as my wife hates the HG Vehicles. They were all parked at the side of the motorway waiting for the OK to go on the Monday.
I arrived hoping to find a website showing the last soccer game of the season...no luck...but my team, Manchester City, were champions again.
After the tedious chore of unpacking...we hit the sack and tried to recover from the long day.

Monday 12.May 2014


Not being a big eater at breakfast...a light cereal and my 'cuppa tea' and a walk to acclimatise.

We had not booked...but I popped into our favourite restaurant...Kirschner Stube. The waiter said 'our table' was booked...so that evening we ended up on a larger table in the corner. A couple with a large dog joined us...and we had a pleasant evening chatting. However...this blog is not about chit-chat...food and wine is what you want.
My wife and I chose the Carpaccio vom Bayrischen Rindefilet...and she commented we will have to be careful that not ever dish will be given a shot of Balsamico.

Eva-Maria opted for the Jakobsmuschel and Wildfanggarnele auf marinierten Zuckerschoten...and little old me wanted Pasta...so the Spaghettini mit gebratenen Pfifferlingen. This type of mushroom has to be really fresh to please me...and I was pleased.










There are a fair few Austrian whites on the winelist...and to slowly get into things...I CHOSE THE BEST!!!...hey...it's my holiday.

Knoll Riesling Vinotheksfüllung Smaragad 2011
Wachau, Austria
Wow.wow,wow...no...that is not the dog barking...it is my way of commenting on this goodie.
This is the top Riesling from the property...most of it from the Loibenberg vineyard. This is harvested later than the aforementioned. Loads of stones and minerals with honey notes. Yellow melons and yellow apples. Loevley weight andf length
Points 18


Tuesday 13 May 2014
I had my first neck and shoulder massage...and felt so good I set off and ended up doing a 90 minute walk. Visited the hotel/ Restaurant 'Villa am See' in case we decided to give them a visit. Wine-List had a few of interest...then I walked to the 'Überfahrt Hotel'...with the super-rich parking their cars and the bodyguards hovering. I checked the wine-list at the Italian Restaurant 'Il Barcaiolo'....then back in time before the rain came.
We have a reguar visitor who does not seem to be worried that others are sharing the balcony. I nicknamed him 'tattie' as he was not the best dressed.

Across from our residence is a small cafe / bistro...yesterday I had tried the Coconut and Chicken soup...today some Pasta...Penne Arrabiata. No mention of my wife means she is sleeping long. She appeared in time to drink her coffee...and do all the necessaries before going out...and we walked the short distance to the Stube'. Again a large table and a pleasant Swiss couple were our companions.
Tonight we wanted to tried the 'Classiks'. Old sleepy went for the 'Wiener Schnitzel von der Kalbslende'...and I 'Backhendl 'Kirschner-Stuben-Art...but without the Kartoffelnsalat...Bratkartoffol please!


The Vino was another goodie

Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Axpoint Smaragd 2012
Wachau, Austria
The 2011 had been on the list...but readers who read last year's report will know how the system works..
I just drink the stuff.
Super rich with hold-back mineral palate...classic gloss.
Points 17.75


Wednesday 14 May 2014
Weather again 4 seasons...sun, hail, rain, warm, cool....and we went shopping for some food to eat in this evening.

We sat cosily...enjoying our selection.
I had brought a couple of bottles with me for just this moment.

Sabathi Pössnitzberg Chardonnay 2011
Roth Styaria, Austria
Had this at home...and that is why I brought it along...gentle creamy crwod-pleaser.
Points 17

Thursday 15 May 2014
Rain or no rain...we decided to set off in the car and admire the beautiful countryside.
We crossed over the border into Austria for 5 minutes...you knew this as the mobile phone warned you of extra costs.
We could say we were in Austria this holiday...not a lie!

Eva-Maria was staying in tonight...so I walked the short distance left to a restaurant I had eyed last time.
La Dolce Vita. Not much going on...3 tables occupied.
The wine list looked good...and I chose the Donabaum.
The fresh seafood salad (Hausgemachter Meerefrüchtesalat) had been preceded by a greeting from the kitchen.




My main course...the frische Tagliolini with white Truffels.


The elderly 'waiter' was from the old school...and the food was delicious.
A few days later I found out that Ciro Merona was the owner: His son...Carmine helped with service.
Ciro has been around the area over 30 years...and obviously loves the work.
Strangely....I had watched a film the day before...'Good Fellas'...with Robert de Nero and Jo Pesci....all about the Mafia...and the restaurant could have been used as a backdrop. I loved the evening.

Johann Donabaum Grüner Veltliner
Spitzer Point Smaragd 2010

Wachau, Austria
This was just what I needed...no searching for pleasure...just plain 

'smell me drink me and be satisfied'...maybe a touch 'up front' fruit...but as I said...easy to drink
Points 17


Friday 16 May 2014
I was wacked...empty...the holiday was kicking in. Slept until 1 pm...
and not being used to doing nothing...just never recovered to want to go out.
I walked round to the Kirchner Stube...cancelled the table....and asked if they could do a portion of pasta to take away. No problem...so the oven in the apartment had the chance to be involved.
Bed couldn't come soon enough.

Saturday 17 May 2014
Weather much brighter...and we were expecting friends to visit. They were over at the Starnberg Sea...visiting an exhibition in Munich.
We had wanted to take them to Kirchner...but there was a wedding on this evening...so I had booked next door at a small Bistro 'Enothek am See'. It is in a celler and practically only barstools...but they have a round table for 4...so that was reserved. Friends Edgar and Ingrid arrived at 4 pm...we had coffee in the hotel...then we drove around to show them the area. They were very impressed...saying Starnberg was nowhere near as pretty.

We arrived at the Bistro at 7pm...and as we checked the small menu...the place filled up. Then we heard the sound of a TV...and realised that this evening was the German Soccer Cup Final...Munich versus Dortmund.
Luckily...our small alcove meant the ladies did not have to watch the screen. It was also 0-0 after 90 minutes...so no great celebrations (only after we left did they play extra-time...and Munich won 2-0).
The others chose the Spargelsuppe(Asparagus on all menus at the moment) with Shrimps. I opted for the Carpaccio of Rind. The soup was a great success...the Carpaccio overdone with Cheese...but OK.
Edgar and myself went for the Ravioli...while the ladies chose Spaghettini with Pfifferlinge. I had tried the variantion at Kirchener...this one tonight was nowhere near as good...too much oil...and the mushrooms not too lively. The Ravioli...again...with too much Parmesan...was also very filling.



The wine-list was without Vintages...and I have taken notes a few days before. Not an Austrian in sight....largely Italian...and I chose to two best.



Quarz Sauvignon Blanc 2012
South Tyrol, Italy
Highly rated...this is the second time for this property...last year I had the 2009. The 2012 was just too young...potential...but at first fiery acidity...food helped...but we left a third and tried the Manna.
Points 15.5



Franz Haas Manna 2010
South Tyrol, Italy

Thankfully...this was a few years older...and was more acceptable.
Points 16


Both wines not really my style...

I know this is Bistro...and the Wine-list without vintages meant I was not going to be tested when the wine one was brought by the waitress...but...she came to the table with the Quarz...corkscrew half into the bottle...and the Manna was unscrewed without even showing. Poeple!!!!...whatever the style of restaurant...basic rules...show the guest what he ordered.
BUT...the evening was great...two friends who we just get on with...and laugh a lot.
Ingrid...who doesn't drink...drove back to Starnberg that evening.

Sunday 18 May 2014
A week is gone...and only mixed weather...BUT...it is going to improve.
Today...lovely sunny morning...I went down for a swim...and had breakfast on the balcony.




About midday I walked along the sea front.



I arrived at La Dolce Vita for lunch...and with the warmth of the day....sat outside.


I ordered the Jacobsmuschelravioli with truffel Sauce. Light and delicious and decided the world couldstand still at this moment. Hey...wait a minute...I don't drink in the daytime...so the world had better move on.

In the evening we were at the Stube again...this time at our prefered table by the oven...although not required with the temperatures up.










We ordered and shared... 'Sashimi von roten Thunfish' and 'Jakobsmuchel and Wildfanggarnele'.
Main courses were 'Ofenfrischer Krustenbraten vom Bioschwein'...the crust crunchy...the meat tender and I opted finally to try again a dish consumed a few times last year 'Filet vom Almochsen mit gebratener Gänseleber'

The wine...was heaven



Franz Hirtzberger Honivogl Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2011
Wachau, Austria

Not sure if 'Honi' means honey....

Looks like light honey...smells like honey...what a perfect wine.
Intense...what I call 'diamond' fruit...with thrilling minerals...
Intense and massively powerful palate. Great finish. Heaven.

Points 18

Monday 19 May 2014
Sat out on the balcony...and waited for the sun. Midday I ate the 'leftovers' of the meat (Schnitzel) we had taken home from the previous evening.
The sun was HOT...so a snooze in the shade was welcomed.

Mrs. Blogger decided on a night in...and was going to raid the fridge.

I set off to my new 'find'. The sun had come out again at at 7 pm I plonked myself down...felt the warmth...chose the wine...and waited to be pleased by the food.




Papa Ciro Merone confirmed that the Oysters were excellent (it is May) so I ordered three.
They were super.


They were followed by 'Thunfish-Sashimi'...not visually on a par with Kirschner...but none the less...very good.

The half portion of 'Hummertortellin mit Hummerschaum rounded off the evening
Son Carmine had brought the wine...and said I must know something about the stuff!
He knows Konrad Salwey...and showed me a few bottles not on the list.



Salwey Weissburgunder Henkenberg GG 2011
Baden, Germany
Closed at first...but spread itself with the food. It was light and acceptable with the oysters...but blew out it's chest when the Tuna fish and spicy Ginger came along. Citrus, stones, racy delcious acidity.
Ah...the world can stand still again.
Points 17.25
I booked the table again for Thursday and asked Carmine if he could find a bottle of white not on the list.
He was down into his private celler and reappeared with a Trimbach Riseling Cuvee Frederic 2000.
We agreed I should try it...and if it is over the hill...then try another.

Tuesday 20 May 2014
Hardly a cloud in the sky. A massage before breakfast....and then update this article...the sun is warming my right arm...time for a break.











Out shopping...my wife needed flowers in the apartment. A coffee break was required...'Villa Am See'...the Gourmet restaurant and Bistro do not seem to be our style...but they have a Pavillon with a small boat....lovely...and the views are great. Kirschner Stube was full outside....but with a light breeze around...we decided on inside.


Waiter Uwe...always good for a smile


I had the warm 'Gänsleber'...and the Zanderfilet...
My wife repeated the Tuna Sashimi and the Kalbsschnitzel.

Knoll Grüner Veltliner Kreutles 2012
Wachau, Austria
Lighter in style...more stream than sea...more stone than boulder...zippiness about it...
maybe it was me...but I needed more this evening.
Points 17


Wednesday 21 May 2014
It was a day to stay in.

Eva-Maria joined me on the balcony...half asleep...but still beautiful.

My wife loves Spargel (white asparagus) but is wary to eat in Restaurants.

She claims they don't peel them correctly and never get the right texture.

So...do it yourself tonight.
Knowing this would happen I had popped a bottle of Silvaner in the car...supposed to be the 'ideal' grape for the white sticks.


Zehnthof Luckert Silvaner ***2011
Franconia, Germany

Small pearls...like a prosecco at first...they scattered in the warm summer evening...I can see why some like this style...zippy and fresh...me...wanted a bit more with my new potatoes.
Points 16
 

Thursday 22 May 2014
Waether great...'Webers' for lunch...in the garden area.

I wanted to go with my wife to 'La Dolce Vita' again...and with the weather forecast saying 30 degrees..we could sit outside. A wind blew late afternoon...but happily disappeared into the night.








The owner...had found a bottle of Trimbach's Cuvee Fredric Riesling 2000...

but it was over the hill...the first sip was dead grapefruit!
No problem...I took the Donabaum again...

and then we ate outselves through the menu...sashimi...and I had the Soup 'Ciro'...named after the father...he said it was good and he was correct.
Too much dessert...but it was the first time this holiday that we had room for any.


Friday 23 May 2014
Weather a little overcast...
but I was off to the Stube again...


 

I had the Carpaccio von Kalbshaxe...too much really...then some fish...
Steinbutt and Hummer...





I had the 'honivogl' again...the last bottle Uwe said...it went to the best place.

Franz Hirtzberger Honivogl Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2011
Wachau, Austria

Still wow...yellow apple fruit...tobacco spices
Points 18

Saturday 24 May 2014
The couple we had seen a few days before...asked if we would join them for dinner at Kirchner Stube. We guys went across and out favourite waiter Uwe somehow found us a table.




Tegernseerhof Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2011
Wachau, Austria
A ripe year in the Wachau...this smells oaky...but that is not a complaint...creamy and rich. Just a great weight in the mouth....

Points 17.75


Sunday 25 May 2014 
Some random photos...last memories...of this lovely holiday.








First Floor

Back Entrance to Apartment

Relaxed and ready to work agin...



Already booked for next year....






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