Wednesday, November 02, 2011

A Baden Sandwich

A couple of Austrian whites sandwiched between two reds from Baden. Nothing like a light snack to oil the machinery.

There were always rules about wine and food when I started out in the 70's
Fish with white and meat with red was never broken...or you had no idea about wine! I was always prepared to change...but it was on holiday in Portugal in the 80's with my daughter...who prefers red...that we often drank the soft fruity wines with the local fish.
Obviously the preparation plays a role.
Also for the last 30 years I have been pulling corks but more and more we see screw caps...something that has never really been as much a problem as you would think for this old traditionalist.
All this brings us to the wine featured here.
The food....well...a very good Thai Curry.
Now...I once had a 1966 top Red Burgundy with a Chinese curry...perfect.
Obviously an Indian curry would not be suitable....but Thai food is a regular diet for me and the curries lend themselves beautifully to Pinot Noir. The Zalwander (see previous post) would have had too much dry tannin...so I needed something rounder and softer.

Alexander Laible
Spätburgunder *** R trocken 2009

Baden, Germany
Alexander is the son of Andreas Laible a couple of kilometers away in Durbach. Over a short period he has built a modern property and is a 'rising star'
It may not please a few people...as he is buying vineyards as far away as Sinzheim near Baden-Baden...but...needs must. But surely...it is what you do with it all.
His Riesling wines compare favourably to his fathers' property...now run by his brother Andreas Jnr. My recent visit to obtain his reds...particularly the 2009s...was not a success in the fact that all he had were 2010s...just this one bottle of the very fine vintage.
Screw cap...kissed by oak....only the lips...no tongue-kissing here. Quite full and an aromatic smell...some blackberry...and..most important for the food...a rounded feel with soft tannins. The Curry and wine hit it off...rather like a tennis match that ended all square.
Points 16.5

Gross Ratscher Nussberg
Sauvignon Blanc 2009

South Styria, Austria
Probably the most difficult new Sauvignon Blanc I have tasted. It's all wrapped up...but not ready to go. Limes, mint, cassis...and some lively acidity. Two days later it popped it's head out...but then back in again.
Very complex and a cellar occupier for the long haul.

Difficult to mark...as you could look a fool in 12 months time.
Points 16.5........but more to come

Alphart Rotgipfler Rodauner
Top Selektion 2010

Thermen Region, Austria
Don't you just hate it when a wine merchant sends you the 'new' vintage when you ordered the previous one!
After raving about the 2009 I had re-ordered....and down in the cellar putting away a few recent delivers and searching for a white to drink...I saw this.....2010. Oh well..saves you searching anymore...try it I thought.
As I mentioned previously...not a grape type you often see on the label. Rotgipfler sounds red...but is a white...and what a white. The nose throws up aromas of pear...and is very Burgundian...bananas, mangoes...very exotic. It spends some time in new oak...and all the above evolves seamlessly onto the palate....compact bundle of minerals rolling around the mouth...salty even......delicious...and always something new to find. Beautiful harmony here. Leave it open for 24 hours...it will thank you.
So...the merchant won't be getting an earful....
Points 17.75



Jürgen von der Mark
Pinot Noir 2008
'F
or Unto Us A Child Was Born'
Baden, Germany
A property that only started out in 2003.
A soft gentle sweet oak whiff is the first impression...but with air this becomes more raspberry....in fact...the whole is like freshly squeezed raspberries. A real juice to activate the senses. Smoke developed...the wine spread itself but never loses a feel of freshness and minerality. A property to watch.
Points 16.75

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