Barry's Wine Notes & Memories

La Hermitage & Ebay

2012-01-22T12:17:00.034+01:00

The photo shows Paul Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1978
If you think I am going to post a note on this half-bottle...wrong. Why is it here?....read on.
Our wine group met up a couple of weeks ago...and one of the wines I had brought along was the bigger sized normal bottle.
It was good...but we thought not great. I mentioned I had 3 half-bottles still and Robert (with his Wine-Merchant hat on) suggested I sell one.
Ebay...here I come. Seven days later...it was sold...€ 400,--! Thank you Mr. Parker...the phrase ''100 Parker Points'' obviously still has swing.
I mentioned to the group that if I sold it...I would take them out for a meal...and so it was that we ended up at La Fattoria...a Restaurant near Frankfurt.
I ordered a taxi for five people...Steffi, Volker, Robert, my wife & I.
We arrived to be greeted by Chester the owner and the head waiter Agnello.
The restaurant offers a long list of what is available on the day...but there is also the main menu card. Volker wanted to see the menu card....opened his glasses case...to find he had forgotten them. His wife gave him a quick run-down...but then he was forced to concentrate as Chester reeled off the daily goodies.
Needless to say...everything we ate...starters...second starters...and main courses...were all super.

I had taken the wines along the day before...and had asked Agnello to open them all at 6pm.

The white...covered up as were all of them...was to convince Robert that there is a Sylvaner of top class to be had....
Zehnthof Luckert Silvaner * * * 2009
Franken, Germany
Like a mix of Riesling and maybe some Grüner Veltliner. Put some Burgundy in the mix and you will describe this wine perfectly. Just a beautiful nose....a trace of cream...honey...compact...the flavour just melts in the mouth...that 'classy' Burgundy feel again...but...this is Silvaner! And what a Silvaner! There are spices to combat that cream...and a minerality to add to it's pluses. As perfect as it can get with the grape. None better has passed my lips.
Points 18...THE BEST SILVANER EVER TASTED

After choosing the three reds for the evening...I realized that they had all been Ebay purchases! Strange as the wine that was paying for the meal had ended up there.

Heger Ihringer Winklerberg
Spätburgunder *** 2004
Baden, Germany
I had called the property a day before to ask what the wine was tasting like. The lady on the phone said she would go into the cellar and ask Joachim Heger and then call me back. The call came...'Fantastic' was the reply.
Slightly musty at first...but it opened to show roasted aromas...wild red fruit...perfect now...marzipan on the palate...and a lingering acidity of finesse that holds it together.
Will still hold a few years...but we caught this one just right...
Points 17.5

Brunel Chateauneuf-du-Pape,
Les Cailloux 1998
Rhône, France
Animals...wild...smokey...that lovely old sweet musky smell that I have missed over recent years in CdP. Almost pinot-like with strawberry and cherry fruit rising from the glass. Perfect integrated acidity...sweet palate...with some liquorice and those dusty tannins that appeal.
Points 17.5

Antinori Pian delle Vigne
Brunello di Montalcino 1997
Toscana, Italy.
In hindsight we should have drank this before the above two...as it was tighter with dry tannins. The nose was very aromatic...spices...leather...cherries...and the palate craved for food...which it got.
Certainly good but a long decant or a few years more would soften it. We certainly didn't refuse it...just that the first two were more open.
Points 17

Five happy people set off home...thank you Paul Jaboulet!

Austrian Trio

2012-01-14T11:40:00.018+01:00

In a perfect world I would be drinking Austrian whites and German Spätburgunder...so I guess the world is perfect at the moment!

Walter Skoff
Sauvignon Blanc Royal 2009
South Styria, Austria
Exotic aromas...lychees...tobacco and vanilla...sweet biscuits...it defies the 14.5% alcohol...sparkling diamonds....roast nuts...minerals...Walter Skoff is known as Mr. Sauvignon Blanc and one can see, and taste...why. I didn't hurry this...and it helped...this opened and developed over 3 days.
Points 17.75

Erwin Sabathi
Pössnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2009
South Styria, Austria
Smokey...minerals....chalky soil...exotic...good acidity...the Limited 111 is my favourite from this property...but this is very good.
Points 17.5

What I don't miss in most Austrian Sauvignon Blanc...the absence of cat's pee...or extreme gooseberry. A step up from those New Zealand examples of years gone by.

Domaine Wachau Smaragd Axpoint
Grüner Veltliner 2009
Wachau, Austria
Suffered a little after the two Sauvignon Blanc. This has fresh, zippy acidity....dark pepper...some tobacco...and will benefit from bottle age.
Points 17

Great South African Pinot

2012-01-12T13:37:00.008+01:00

I have always steered clear of South African wines...there have been exceptions...but most have been over-done.
As this had been recommended...and my quest for good Pinot Noir is never ending...I searched the net for a German merchant who had the 2009 vintage. I 'found' it....ordered...checked the item number...'2009'...and waited for the 3 bottles.
A few days later and I was pulling open the package to be presented with...yes...you've guessed it...the 2010 vintage!!
I contacted the merchant and was told that they only had the 2010 now...then why oh why...don't you change your website!!!
I was offered a small rebate and decided to keep the wines rather that send them back. Next step...try one...so that I would calm down. And so it was.. a few days later...that I popped the cork on this wine
Crystallum Pinot Noir
Cuvée Cinema 2010
Walker Bay, South Africa
The aroma...well...pure Pinot...and a smile from me. Bingo...there are sometimes positives in negatives. Strawberry and cherry followed...very enticing. The smell dragged me into the glass. There are tannins...but so velvety...and the fruit has a delicious acidity as partner.Juicy fruit...mouth filling...I could have emptied the bottle...but a few sprays from my gas bottle...and in the fridge...it was tasted again next evening. Still all there...even fuller maybe. The wine spends 10 months in barrel...but this is no overdone, overoaked example. It is the future for South Africa,
Points 18
PS. ..I am off to the UK in a few weeks...and checking a merchant there...found he has 5 bottles of the 2009 and a single bottle of 2008. They are ordered and
will be transported back to Germany...personally.

Baden Sun & Vitamin D

2012-01-05T12:29:00.027+01:00

With the wind and the rain and the storms and the cold....I do need to start taking those Vitamin D tablets again....to get me through the winter months without the sun. Three wines from an area of Germany that boast the most hours of sunshine....Baden.

Hofgut Consequence
Blauer Spätburgunder 2007 ***
Baden, Germany
Probably no longer available. When I was there Eva Maria Schmidt explained that the property was now owned by Abril...another property a few doors down...since 1 January 2010. There was a new building being built on the outskirts of Vogtsburg-Bischoffingen. Her husband Manfred was now in charge of the grapes. So the wines with the Hofgut Consequence label were the last. I purchased 3 bottles of the top wine mentioned here. The style is very much easy Pinot that encourages big mouthfuls of the strawberry fruit. Great vintage...and at four years old just about ready to go. Tasty....and one can only hope Manfred Schmidt chooses well for the new project. The winemaking will be done by Sebastian Faber & Armin Süttler.
A snip at € 18,--
Points 17

R & C SchneiderSpätburgunder
Parzelle Schönenberg 2006
Baden, Germany
I purchased a few bottles of this after trying the 2005...and hearing that it was even better in this vintage. Well...I have tried them over a 2 year period...trying to give it all my love in the hope that it will give something back. One bottle is left and I think Ebay calls for this lady. She has never shown a sexy side...no seduction...and I can't see it changing much. The nose is slightly raw...and the fruit just ordinary...a puzzle. If it had been one bottle I would have put it down to a bad-un...but every time I have been left wanting. Next wine please...
Points 16.....

Schloss Staufenberg
Durbacher Schlossberg
Spätburgunder trocken 2009
Baden, Germany
If you want to buy direct from this property...it is up a winding road with room for one vehicle(and you just hope a bus carrying tourists doesn't decided to appear round the corner)...to the top of the hill overlooking Durbach.......park your car...and walk up round to the 'castle'. You will be rewarded with a sensational view...and some good 'Flammenkuchen' in the restaurant. This is the top red...and the 2009 vintage was on offer. Was it worth the trouble?...hey...after the Parzelle I needed reassurance. What the 2009 vintage offers is a perfect package. From start to finish you have the great vintage feel. Ripe and forward...sweet fruit...rounded...a soft bristling tannin layer...which held it up for a day later...nice.
Points 16.75

The Power of Zelt

2011-12-29T16:10:00.007+01:00

Zelt Laumersheimer Kirschgarten
Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken 2009 Pfalz, Germany
Took this along to a local eatery and popped the cork...and an hour later...poured a glass. A little bit shocked...cos if you expect a gentle Pinot then you are going to have to wait. Loads of dark red fruit...intense...brooding even. The Weingut is across the way from the top property Knipser...and is a tip for anyone looking for real value. It remiinded me more of Knipser's Cabernet's than a sultry Pinot. I tried the Großkarlbacher Burgweg Spätburgunder 2008 in May this year...which was very drinkable...but this is a step upwards...and at € 23,-- there is a lot of wine here. Ripe cherries...fine but still firm tannins...quite complex...and has potential
Points 17....but give it time

Leftovers and Favourite Grapes

2011-12-28T12:04:00.010+01:00

Over a couple of days I have been eating the Xmas leftovers...still delicious.
As the year closes...I can only reiterate...my favourite white grape is Grüner Veltliner...and my favourite red...wait for it...yes...you guessed...Pinot Noir.

Emmerich Knoll Smaragd Schütt
Grüner Veltliner 2009
Wachau, Austria
For a Knoll...this is layed-back...I always expect a voluptuous wine. Herby and some tobacco on the nose...yellow fruits...glossy on the palate...velvety... already approchable....
Points 17.25

H.J. Kreuzberg Spätburgunder
Ahrweiler Silberberg GG 2009
Ahr, Germany
The 'first division' group of properties in the Ahr are Adeneuer, Deutzerhof, Meyer-Näkel and Stodden. The 'second division' probably comprises Burggarten, Nelles and Kreuzberg. There are a few more that could make a name for themselves....but unlike Baden & Pfalz...there seems to be very few 'finds' in this area. Surely in one of the best red wine areas in Germany there should be a whole host of new growers making a name for themselves. We will see... This is practically a 100% red wine property...with Spätburgunder comprising of 70%...and Ludwig Kreuzberg is improving year by year. Heading for the first division maybe. They have plots in Neuenahrer Schieferlay und Sonnenberg, Ahrweiler Silberberg und Dernauer Pfarrwingert. The 2009 vintage promises to maybe even surpass 2004 & 2006...so I was excited about trying this GG...albeit very young. Hoppla...as I caught the first whiff...a bit special. New oak...creamy...ripe forest fruit, cherry...tannins firm but approachable. Very good. After an hour the wine closed up...showing it's youth...so...best tip for anyone here...pop in the cork...and try next evening. Twenty-four hours later...out with the cork and it all started over again... but now the palate was rounder...quite thick cherry fruit with a minerality that made a package to enjoy. I like this...and will try to keep the other bottle hidden...very enticing though.
Points 17.75

Magic Magnum

2011-12-26T17:55:00.006+01:00

The Germans celebrate Christmas Eve...and this year...my wife had offered to prepare the evening's delights...and our daughters offered to help.
I had purchased the planned red from Ebay...hoping that a Magnum would still be drinkable after 12 years. How to be sure?...just call the property. Werner Näkel's daughter, Meike, answered and informed me the wine would be just perfect in the Magnum. Extra information was that the Magnums were hand-written back then. Not nowadays as they would probably get wrist sprains as this is one of the top properties in Germany and sell all over the world.

Meyer-Näkel Spätburgunder S
Magnum 1999
Ahr, Germany
Light colour....and a mature brown rim. Soft burnt smoke on the nose...this is a beautiful aged Pinot...with some pepper. Smell of forest undergrowth...just perfect on the palate...nice layer of mature strawberry fruit...and
a touch of age...which the magnum carries well...a bottle may have been too late!
Points 17.5

Old Wines

2011-12-24T08:25:00.013+01:00

A few days before Christmas and Volker, Robert and myself met up to try Volker's cooking....but also some hopefully 'great' wines.
I had thought about some aged Brunello di Montalcino and also some top Pinot Noir....but decided to raid the older part of the cellar.

F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner M 2000
Wachau, Austria
Rich, power...no sign of any downhill turn...the 'M' is always built to last. This had me thinking dry d'Yquem. Strong smell of honey...rich and intense...perfect balance....amazing for it's age...slight touch of boytritis.
Points 18

Chateau Trotanoy 1978
Pomerol, Bordeaux, France
Of all the wines I chose...this had me worrying that it would not stand up and be counted after 30 years. I have opened a few vintages over the years and Volker is a big fan. He had no dea what was in the decanter...but was saying 'Merlot' and 'Bordeaux'. Still deep red...farmyard nose...meaty...earthy...holding up very well and a delightful old Bordeaux.
Points 17.5 although Volker rated it higher

Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1978
Rhone, France
Ah....Mr. Parker...rated this with 100 points. I had given it 7 hours in the decanter. This is still full of blood, smoked meat...loads of herbs. The palate is still firm and there is no danger that this is anywhere near it's end.
It was not the blockbuster one would expect...and although the bottle has been in my cellar 30 years...there could be bottle variation. Certainly very good.
Points 17.75

Fonseca Vintage Port 1977
Douro, Portugal
Quite light surprisingly...and a reserved nose. Strawberry fruit....and some chocolate. Not a big port but nice finish to the evening.
Points 17.25

The Christmas Scrooge

2011-12-23T15:48:00.003+01:00

Ah...Christmas...what used to be 2 days has become almost 2 months. All the stress...the buying of food in case of an emergency...like the Third World War or a famine! Well...if one of those does happen...then my cellar is full as well...and we could live through the winter. Joking aside....or am I?...my wife still wants to buy me something...and what do you buy someone who is only happy when he gets a good bottle?....you buy wine of course. Influenced by our local merchant....these are the 5 which proudly stand in front of the tree (another stress with 200 lights and 150 balls). They will lie themselves down in my cellar after the Xmas evening celebrations are over and wait for the owner to pop the corks in the future. I guess Christmas ain't so bad after all....the liquids swung it for me. Merry Christmas from Scrooge...

Two Recommendations from the Pfalz

2011-12-19T13:48:00.007+01:00

Two properties practically unknown...not only all over the world...but in Germany as well
Jakob Pfleger Pinot Noir 2009
Edition Curator
Pfalz, Germany
A property that is not mentioned in Gault Millau...which is down to the politics that pops it's head up regarding mass tastings. Eichelmann rate it highly though. Roland Pfleger is a Pinot Noir man...he knows how to entice you with his style of wine. The 2007 version has been regularly drank over the last year... and I had ordered this vintage on my visit to the property a year ago. Six bottles of this...and 6 of the top wine 'R'****'. Cream pure on the nose...cool fruit....ripe fruit as well...this is another sexy vintage for Spätburgunder. A gentle bite...perfect balance...and a snip at € 16,--. The top wine must be pretty special methinks...
Points 17

Joachim Hollerith Maikammer Heiligenberg Maximus Pinot Noir 2008
Pfalz, Germany
The property is in Neustadt / Hambach. Joachim Hollerith returned to Germany in 1999 after 20 years learning his 'trade' in Virginia / U.S.A. His son Jonathan has taken over the reins since 2006. Maximus contains grapes from the vineyards in Heiligenberg in Maikammer. The recently tried 2007 had reminded me to ask when the 2009 would be available. In the Spring of 2012 was the answer...but they had the 2008. As I think the vintage is underrated I had no hesitation in ordering and no hesitation in opening a bottle with some friends. It knocked them out... they were very impressed. Whereas the previous vintage was all ripe and upfront...this is more typical...a touch reserved in comparison. Roasted aromas...prickly cream...expansive...liquorice...marzipan...and fine grip. Like it now...or love it in a couple of years. Priced has remained to same since the first vintage of 2005...€ 25,--
Points 17.75

Worlds Apart...A Tale of Two Chardonnays

2011-12-16T17:42:00.012+01:00

Worlds apart...in distance and in style.
A Tale Of Two Chardonnays.
The first...a wine I 'discovered' about 6 months ago. Ordered it after reading high praise in a Decanter tasting...and willing to try the 'new' Australia...it has taken that long for the wine to come from Australia via Belgium to Germany. Left to 'relax' after that trip...it needed to be tried to see how good it really is.
Bird In Hand Nest Egg Chardonnay 2008
Adelaide Hills, South Australia
Smokey oak...a real old fashioned Chardonnay smell...nutty. The palate shows a creamy texture...very crème brûlée...with some refreshing minerality. Drinking over two days..the oak is fairly dominant on the lips...and needs a year or two to integrate. Potential...
Points 17.5

Very little white Austrian in the cellar...after a warm Autumn...so I needed to replenish. Lots of Grüner Veltliner...and this Chardonnay. As different again as two wines could be...
Johann Topf Strasser Chardonnay
Ried Hasel 2008
Kamptal, Austria
Minerals dominate here...the grape is masked at first but slowly developed. Exotic fruit...and compared to the Aussie...a reserved vanilla aroma. Green apple flavour...this begs you to leave this a year or two...but for different reasons again to the above...zippy acidity this time.
Points 17

My wife makes the best Hamburgers...
Impossible to eat with the hands though...

Great Wines

2011-11-25T12:05:00.011+01:00

I love going to our local Bistro and taking along wines that I hope will impress friends.
What is a great wine?....one that is world wide known or a wine that few have tasted and only known to the few.
Cuilleron's top Condrieu and Guigal's La Doriane are both great wines....so it was good to hear my fellow tasters compare the first wine with the aforementioned.
They tried to nail it down...but the exotic feel had them struggling.
Erwin Sabathi Limited 111
Sauvignon Blanc 2008
South Styria, Austria
Quite full...but in no way fat. I can see this aging well...but the general consensus of opinion was...why wait?
What an aroma...cassis and top class gooseberries with a touch of lychees.
After all that...you would expect a fruit bomb maybe...nope...this is elegant classy fruit...tropical with a dash of citrus... a hedonistic juice...and
worth
Points 18.25
A great wine.

The first red was a property I had only just found after returning from Baden and checking out a wine forum.
Enderle & Moll have 3 reds...a Villages...the Muschelkalk...which I tried a couple of weeks ago....and this one which has had people raving about it.
Did it live up to the hype?
Enderle & Moll
Buntsandstein Pinot Noir 2009
Baden, Germany
We concentrated on this one...as we ate...as it told us it needed nourishment...and the Hollerith was a completely different animal.
Opened 24 hours in advance but left in the bottle to air.
A whiff of glue at first...and a general feel of minerals and reserved fruit. It had the guys guessing...New World...Rhone...Syrah...but not a German Pinot...and it does not
taste like one. Earthy...and changing it's spots as it evolved in the glass. At the moment the Muschelkalk 2009 is the easier....but I bow to those on the net who think this will evolve into a GREAT wine....
A reserved marking here...a wine in it's infancy
Points 17

We had had a quick smell of the next wine...and a sip...the unanimously decided not to compare it with the Enderle & Moll.
It would be drank and enjoyed all on it's own.
Joachim Hollerith Maikammer Heiligenberg
Maximus Pinot Noir 2007
Pfalz, Germany
Opened only one hour before drinking.
Instant appeal...no messing around sticking your nose deep into the glass...the bouquet came out to greet you. Classy smokiness with smells of cherries & forest berries. The fruit just so perfect... and rolled over the tongue. Just a touch earthy...and with a length and elegance that says...GREAT wine. The guys were getting close to saying Gerrman....but I kept telling them the bottle was heavy with a large punt....ha ha...and they opted for U.S.A. Jim Clendenen. Now that is a compliment!
Points 18

German Victory

2011-11-25T09:25:00.027+01:00

Five of us in all at Volker's place...with his usual delicious food.
Robert offered us a 3 Glas Gamberro Rosso Prosecco...not for me...spend my money elsewhere.
Two Rieslings tasted blind...the first we thought was definitely a 2010 with extreme acidity.
The second...much more like it...had to be 2009.
Wrong!
The first turned out to be
Karl Schäfer Forster Pechstein
Riesling GG 2009
Pfalz, Germany
Had to be a 2010...but no...a 2009 and not a style that appeals to a non lover of stomach burning acidity.
Points 14.5

The second was from a top Nahe property..
Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle
Riesling GG 2010
Nahe, Germany
I presumed this to be the 2009...this is very good...and showed very well in it's youth with a perfect balance. A couple more years and you have gem.
Points 16.5

The five Pinot bottles had been decanted by Steffi...I had to choose the order...and am now obviously the king of blind tasting arranging. The way the wines turned out in quality was the order I chose them. You just can't plan any better! The first two did not please...

Albert Bichot Domaine Adelie
Champs Martin Premier Cru 2005
Mercury, Burgundy, France
No character...dry fruit...in disorder
Points 13.5

Domaine Joblot Clos Marole
Premier Cru 2006 Givry,
Burgundy, France
A shade better that the above...but nothing to write home about
Points 14

OK..these are not from the medium to top level in Burgundy....but the prices should ensure you get something worth the effort.

Cortijo Los Aguilares
Pinot Noir 2009
Ronda, Sierras de Malaga, Spain
Some cassis here...and I guessed it was maybe from an unknown area...but I never knew they were planting the sexy grape down on the south coast of Spain.
Points 15.5

Studach Malanser
Pinot Noir 2009
Graubünden, Switzerland
Finally a smell of the grape I love....fine balance...soft raspberry fruit...the oak just noticeable...give it a year or two...delightful.
Points 17

Adeneuer Walporzheimer Gärkammer
Spätburgunger GG 2009
Ahr, Germany
Who planned this to be served last? Oh...yes...it was me...and it blew everything away. A full Pinot nose...cassis and cherry...with gentle biting tannins and a wonderful 'feel' on the palate. Length and style. This is what it is all about!
Points 17.75
We were then shown a list of the five wines and asked to correctly call them. I was on a role...but it was not difficult. The Ahr wine was the most expensive...with the two French wines costing maybe € 20,-- less. Money well spent if you choose the Adeneuer....and for the prices of the French wines I will list a 100 German reds that would knock them sideways.

La Fattoria

2011-11-19T11:54:00.024+01:00

Over the last 30 years we have visited La Fattoria...an Italian Restaurant in Mörfelden, near Frankfurt...more times than we can remember. Due to various circumstances it had been a year since our last visit! Our loss....but we rectified this with a visit on a Friday evening. We were greeted by the, always buoyant, Agnello...who has been running the service for a long time. He looked slimmer and we complimented him (his answer...'my wife said lose weight or I will divorce you...so I decided a diet was cheaper'). Owner Chester appeared without the menu card...which is fine by us. Now you gotta concentrate. The first 10 dishes I could have eaten there and then....then about 8 fish possibilities and 6 meat. Some of the selections were the trio which included some very fine Squid....a Carpaccio with white truffle...Scallops...warm Goose Liver...some Pasta dishes...and an old favourite of mine...the Duck with dates and almonds.

My wife had requested I took no wine with me...so I quickly checked the wine-list and chose the following...
Lageder Löwengang Chardonnay 2007
Alto Adige, South Tirol, Italy
100% Chardonnay...I remember earlier vintages were more oak influenced...so pleasantly surprised by this more delicate style. Alto Adige is a cool climate area... Yellow gold colour with a tinge of green...and a soft buttery aroma which opened nicely in the glass. There is a fresh acidity that lifts the fruit and it was a perfect match with all the starters. Good finish. Very enjoyable.
Points 17

The choice of red could have been a Barbera d'Asti “Bricco dell' Uccellone 2007...but fellow Blogger Alex who lives near to La Fattoria had enthused about a Barolo on a previous visit...so that was decanted.

Burlotto Barolo Cannubi 2005
Piedmont, Italy
Intriguing aroma...leather and spice and cherries...and dark roses. The mix of acidity and tannins is just about right...and the palate welcomed red berry fruit. A good choice...and perfect again with the food.
Points 16.75

A great evening...and we won't leave it so long until the next time.

A Baden Sandwich

2011-11-02T11:13:00.031+01:00

A couple of Austrian whites sandwiched between two reds from Baden. Nothing like a light snack to oil the machinery.

There were always rules about wine and food when I started out in the 70's
Fish with white and meat with red was never broken...or you had no idea about wine! I was always prepared to change...but it was on holiday in Portugal in the 80's with my daughter...who prefers red...that we often drank the soft fruity wines with the local fish.
Obviously the preparation plays a role.
Also for the last 30 years I have been pulling corks but more and more we see screw caps...something that has never really been as much a problem as you would think for this old traditionalist.
All this brings us to the wine featured here.
The food....well...a very good Thai Curry.
Now...I once had a 1966 top Red Burgundy with a Chinese curry...perfect.
Obviously an Indian curry would not be suitable....but Thai food is a regular diet for me and the curries lend themselves beautifully to Pinot Noir. The Zalwander (see previous post) would have had too much dry tannin...so I needed something rounder and softer.

Alexander Laible
Spätburgunder *** R trocken 2009
Baden, Germany
Alexander is the son of Andreas Laible a couple of kilometers away in Durbach. Over a short period he has built a modern property and is a 'rising star'
It may not please a few people...as he is buying vineyards as far away as Sinzheim near Baden-Baden...but...needs must. But surely...it is what you do with it all.
His Riesling wines compare favourably to his fathers' property...now run by his brother Andreas Jnr. My recent visit to obtain his reds...particularly the 2009s...was not a success in the fact that all he had were 2010s...just this one bottle of the very fine vintage.
Screw cap...kissed by oak....only the lips...no tongue-kissing here. Quite full and an aromatic smell...some blackberry...and..most important for the food...a rounded feel with soft tannins. The Curry and wine hit it off...rather like a tennis match that ended all square.
Points 16.5

Gross Ratscher Nussberg
Sauvignon Blanc 2009
South Styria, Austria
Probably the most difficult new Sauvignon Blanc I have tasted. It's all wrapped up...but not ready to go. Limes, mint, cassis...and some lively acidity. Two days later it popped it's head out...but then back in again.
Very complex and a cellar occupier for the long haul.

Difficult to mark...as you could look a fool in 12 months time.
Points 16.5........but more to come

Alphart Rotgipfler Rodauner
Top Selektion 2010
Thermen Region, Austria
Don't you just hate it when a wine merchant sends you the 'new' vintage when you ordered the previous one!
After raving about the 2009 I had re-ordered....and down in the cellar putting away a few recent delivers and searching for a white to drink...I saw this.....2010. Oh well..saves you searching anymore...try it I thought.
As I mentioned previously...not a grape type you often see on the label. Rotgipfler sounds red...but is a white...and what a white. The nose throws up aromas of pear...and is very Burgundian...bananas, mangoes...very exotic. It spends some time in new oak...and all the above evolves seamlessly onto the palate....compact bundle of minerals rolling around the mouth...salty even......delicious...and always something new to find. Beautiful harmony here. Leave it open for 24 hours...it will thank you.
So...the merchant won't be getting an earful....
Points 17.75

Jürgen von der Mark
Pinot Noir 2008
'For Unto Us A Child Was Born'
Baden, Germany
A property that only started out in 2003.
A soft gentle sweet oak whiff is the first impression...but with air this becomes more raspberry....in fact...the whole is like freshly squeezed raspberries. A real juice to activate the senses. Smoke developed...the wine spread itself but never loses a feel of freshness and minerality. A property to watch.
Points 16.75

Two Zalwander

2011-10-25T14:23:00.028+02:00

Odin Bauer is a 'Schwabe'...which locates him being born round the Stuttgart area...his partner Elmar Lehmann from Baden. The name Zalwander is Alemannic for 'the two of us'...and the two of them started out in 2002 with 1.3 hectares. More than half of the vines are Spätburgunder and a third Lemberger. A small amount of Grau Burgunder makes up the rest. I first 'found' the property when in Freiburg a few years ago and a wine merchant recommended the 2005 Spätburgunder. It aged beautifully...and the property was noted for future tries. I purchased these two on offer here on my recent visit to Köndringen...both from the underrated 2008 vintage. Both spend time in small oak barrels and are unfiltered.

Zalwander Lemberger 2008
Baden, Germany
This 'speciality' of the Württemberg area is no doubt down to Herr Bauer. He may be in Baden but his roots are in Württemberg. Grown on clay soil...the vines are now 9 years old. The initial aroma is of juniper berries...and develops a lively peppery smell. This is a 'terroir' wine...with the earth playing a large part in the style and feel. A juicy palate, very natural in the mouth....rounded tannins...nice dose of acidity...and a general all-round well made wine... and already easy to drink. At € 15,-- it is a bargain.
Points 16.25

Zalwander Spätburgunder Harte Erde 2008
Baden, Germany
This used to be labeled 'EEE' (Einzigartiger Erstklassiger Erdenhard)...and comes from 30 year-old vines. There is around 600 bottles available in each vintage. A delicate, elegant whiff of oak here...again the juniper berries...again the 'terroir' feel...sour cherries on the palate....herbs and dark Pinot....a signature wine if you like...with the stamp of the winemaker. As it developed the pepper evolved....and although approachable now I would put it away for a couple of years.
Points 16.5

Both wines will benefit from cellaring and could be rated more with aging.

Pasta, Pur and Vorgrimmler

2011-10-22T08:10:00.020+02:00

The last 10 days...staff on holiday...cars in and out of the repair shop...and the business filling every day...it has meant dashing down into the cellar at the last moment. No real preparation barring the one time we had guests. Just hoping for a liquid payment for the daily stress.

Fred Loimer Grüner Veltiner
Langenlois Spiegel Reserve 2009
Kamptal, Austria
Medium green-yellow....apple fruit on the nose...and with a few hours this softened to show pears and cream. Developed even more yellow fruit over a longer period. Infantile to drink now...but needs must on the last warm evening of a beautiful autumn.
Points 17

Weingut Schlör Spätburgunder
Barrique 'R 2008
Baden, Germany
After the pleasure of this property's basic 2008...this was more aloof...not ready to show itself...like a shy girl hiding behind the curtain. Young puppy fat and a fine dose of tannins means the second bottle remains untouched for a few years.
Points 16.5

Enderle & Moll
Spätburgunder Villages 2009
Baden, Germany
After the recent Muschelkalk 2009...which was very good...this was a slight disappointment. Not very 2009 at all...brawny...spiky fruit...and dry tannins... not sexy at all...so hope the second bottle will reveal more in a year or two. Points 16

Vorgrimmler
Spätburgunder 'SR' 2007
Baden, Germany
This I found on a merchant's list when tracking another wine. Good reports..so I ordered two bottles. A visit from my god child with her parents and we finished off the Schlurr which was still covering it's face and I opened the new find. Intriguing nose...raspberry...smoke...and then I thought of a drink from back in my youth...Ribena...same smell. I remember a wine from the south of France...back in the 80's...Chateau Vignalaure...which also had this enticing blackberry aroma. Our dinner guests were very impressed...and we sniffed and sniffed. A trace of vanilla and some nicely balanced tannins... and a light style(13% alcohol). A real treat....recommended. The price on the Merchant's list(N & M Wines in Mönchengladbach) was € 19,-- but the invoice arrived and I had only been charged € 15,- I inquired why (honest that I am) and was told they were now 'Restposten'...bin-ends.
Points 16.75

Weingut Konstanzer Pur 2009
Baden, Germany
I recently recommended this property to friends and ordered a few cases. Herr Konstanzer kindly popped this bottle in for free as a thank you. I had to ask him for information as it is nowhere to be found. His reply:
Die Trauben für die Spätburgunder Spätlese -pur- stammen aus einem Ertragreduzierten (ca. 30 hl/ha) Weinberg im Winklerberg Die Trauben wurden voll reif gelesen mit 106° Oe. kaltmazeriert (5 Tg) und Spontan angegoren. Maischestandzeit 19 Tage , Lagerung nur in neuen Barriques 20 Monate. Im Juli 2011 abgefüllt Ohne Filtration und Pumpe (Falldruck). Wie schon der Name sagt " pur " keine Technik od. sonstige Geschichen angewendet.
And so to the wine....just a delicious glass full...and just what the 2009's should be offering you. Pure...as it says...Pinot Noir...silky, soft, but not a pushover...plenty of backbone...this will give pleasure from day one and over the next five years. Recommended.
Price by the way...€ 22.50,--
Points..by the way 16.75

Some delicious Pasta...which I had for dinner three nights running.
Needs must...but no complaints from myself.
Yummy!

Top Baden Pinot

2011-10-07T17:37:00.013+02:00

My wife and I and friends Volker and Steffi at our local Bistro Mitch. Layla, the owner, is a fine host....and the food is always enjoyable. Volker and Steffi were off to Madeira next morning so needed some German wines before their holiday.
Corkage is reasonable...and there is a good atmosphere.

I had brought the bottles in the morning.....and the white was popped into the fridge having been opened.
I knew it needed airing as the previous time I had tasted over two days and the difference had be noticeable.

Bassermann Jordan
Riesling Auf der Mauer 2007
Pfalz, Germany
Full aroma of yellow fruits...the smell of petroleum hovering...broad structure...acidity within my health limit...layers of fruit on the palate...lovely weight...but keeping it's dry mineral style...some honey...slightly creamy...very good finish.
The last bottle...and at € 15,-- back then...even more of a bargain for the quality.
Points 17.25

The two reds were opened at 10am and left to air in the bottle.
I asked Volker to pour into the large glasses while I left the table so that I could appraise them not knowing which was which.
We sniffed at each glass...and went back again..and again...and it was like watching a tennis match as we took in the intriguing aromas of both. This was going to be a real pleasure...and it was five minutes before we took the next step of sipping.

Enderle & Moll
Spätburgunder Muschelkalk 2009
Baden, Germany
This new property was founded in 2007 in Münchweier in the Ortenau area of Baden...and I only found out about it after returning from my vacation in August.
Some of the vines date back to 1953. The wines gets to spend time in used barrels from top Burgundy estates Domaines Jayer-Gilles and Dujac.
Creamy vanilla aroma developed into a quite strong smell of eucalyptus...in fact the wine as a whole was herby with leather tones and some nougat toffee. Earthy when compared to the Waßmer....the tannins gentle and dry...and a nice weight to it...12.5% which really is seldom.
The colour became more milky as the evening wore on...and I would tend to give this a lot less airing that I did here...that's not to say it suffered...but just that the wine does not need that much fresh air.
Points 17.25
Fritz Wassmer
Spätburgunder XXL 2009
Baden, Germany
While never having tasted anything from the previous property...it was easy to decide that this was the Waßmer. Previous vintages I have found the wine top heavy with oak...
but Fritz Waßmer has learned with every vintage...and has reached his destination of making a 'Burgundy' wine in Baden.
A brownish rim would make you think a little older... the strong raspberry aroma filled the glass..and was intoxicating. A complex wine...meaty and juicy all in one...and a lovely mouthful...well integrated oak...and a glass full of delicious Pinot here...and this got better in the glass...so the 12 hours start did it no harm. Only bought 3 bottles of this...and I could gladly drink this once a week....
Points 18

A Week In The Life Of A Juice Junkie!

2011-10-03T17:23:00.033+02:00

The week in the life of a wine freak / fan / aficionado. Call me what you will...even a juice junkie!
A Monday evening...and I was expecting a visit from David Stephensen...a fellow Spätburgunder lover....over in Germany on holiday...packing the car with the wine and visiting friends. He took my advice and visited the Gasthof Rebstock in Waldulm and stayed 3 days. His favourite wine one evening had been Gantenbein 2007...the cult wine from Switzerland. We had never met...and he called when he arrived at the railway station...and I was on my bike and found him and we were off to the local Bistro. Two bottles had been deposited at midday and I had covered them up.

Willi Sattler
Sauvignon Blanc Privat 2006
South Styria, Austria
He got South Styria correct but was thinking Chardonnay...and it is hardly surprising....as my recent notes stated: This is not so much your 'green green grass' SB...more a soft butterball, If I had tasted this blind I would have been uncertain at first. Super complex aroma of exotic fruit...with a gentle creaminess. As it opens only then do you get a shot of the grape's natural character. A super length of flavour and I was putting this in the top 10 SB's that I have ever tried. Judge it as white wine maybe and not as a typical Sauvignon Blanc...but whatever you do...get to try it!
Points 18

The red was to be a surprise. I had purchased 6 bottles of the Gantenbein Pinot Noir 2005 and 4 had already gone to the great lake...and had been delicious. So...surprise him with the 2005...or that was the plan. Nada...cork...just a whiff...but no way could you force yourself to enjoy it. To quote a good old English saying... 'ON YA BIKE MATE'....and within 7 minutes I was back from my wine cellar with a substitute.

Meyer-Nakel Spätburgunder S 2005
Ahr, Germany
We were chatting away...so I hardly made any notes...but David sent an email to say it hit the spot. A nice evening and I left David at the station to head off back to Frankfurt. He told me later he had gotten into a conversation with a guy on the train about whether Irish Whiskey or Scottish Whisky were the best. As David is from Edinburgh... I'm sure he put over his point!

September is Pumpkin month...here is one we brought back from Baden...and I love the soup my wife makes...with a few chilis in there...I eat it for days...well...there is enough there!

Wenzel Kleiner Wald
Pinot Noir 2007
Neusiedlersee, Austria
This is a new property in Austria...the first vintage was 2004...and does not yet even appear in the Falstaff Wine Guide.. Aromatic spices and sweet tannins...like a Cote de Beaune if you are into French Pinot. Work meant I made no other notes
Points 16.25

The evenings are getting shorter...but September has been gorgeous. What a sunset!

Lackner-Tinnacher
Sauvignon Blanc Welles STK 2008
South Styria, Austria
Gooseberry confit with some pineapple....and remember...a year ago I would not have touched a SB after all the cat's pee I had been offered. These South Styria wines are another level though...where were we?..ah yes...blood oranges...like as silky snake slithering down the gullet...
Points 17.5

Erwin Sabathi Sauvignon Blanc
Pössnitzberg Limited 111 2008
South Styria, Austria
WOW!...get used to this. What an aroma...WOW. Cassis and top class gooseberries with a touch of lychees. Like inhaling Cleopatra's bath water. And what a mouthful...WOW! After all that...you would expect a fruit bomb maybe...nope...this is elegant classy fruit...tropical with a dash of citrus... a hedonistic juice....and I can't say any more than... I give it
Points 18.25
I bought some more...and will 'maybe' let it lie....only maybe

Baden Miles Apart

2011-09-29T12:08:00.011+02:00

I am trying to taste / try every German property producing (good) Spätburgunder...and if I made a list of Baden...there would be very few that have not passed my lips over the last few years. On my recent trip...Rebstock owner Karl Hodapp had mentioned Bimmerle...in nearby Renchen. The wine was on his list. I drove past the property...did not visit...but a couple of days later at a local Supermarket...as I hate to leave any place without a bottle( smile)... I purchased a Bimmerle wine..the basic Spätburgunder 2009. My 'goodbye' present from Karl, however, was the wine tasted here.
Siegbert Bimmerle
Spätburgunder trocken Holzfass 2009
Baden, Germany
My guess is that quite a few properties will take a step forward with the very rewarding 2009 vintage. This was a gold medal winner...which..as a warning anywhere...says you are only as good as the competition. However...the competition in Baden is strong...so any prize winner is worth taking notice of. A delicate aroma...and with soft, sweet fruit. You say sweet fruit to some drinkers and they cringe...thinking...I want it dry...but that is what it is...but you can't stop a ripe vintage showing it's best side. This filled out with some airing...spicy..a good bite...and certainly easy to drink.
Points 16

The next wine would fool you tasted blind....not your typical Badener. But checking the label...and you see Tauberfranken. So...it belongs to Baden but is a whole lot nearer to Würzburg than say...to Freiburg. And it shows in style...

Weingut Schlör
Spätburgunder Barrique 2008
Baden, Germany
Not a property I would then get to visit when in Baden..as this is so way off the beaten track...I just am not going to be ever near the place. Quite by accident...when ordering another wine from a merchant...up popped this one and the top of range version. As a basic wine always shows the craft and knowledge of any property this got my attention at once. More chirpy cherry than strawberry fool...smoke on the nose...and I love the gentle tannins that accompany the medium weighted fruit...and the way it never lost my interest.
Points 16.5

I need to make a list to see what properties I have not tried yet....and there are a few in the cellar which I will try over the next few weeks.
What a lovely obsession!

The Top Konstanzer

2011-09-22T14:48:00.010+02:00

Two 'brothers'...an interesting tasting from my new 'find'....

Konstanzer Ihringer Winkleberg Spätburgunder Spätlese Barrique 2008
Baden, Germany
What a fine wine. The oak is layed-back...lingers in the background and draws you into the glass to find traces of almonds and bay leaves. Enticing juicy flavour...mild and natural... very 2008...so terroir plays a role here...and the price only adds to it's plusses.
Points 17.5......€ 20,--

Konstanzer Ihringer Winkleberg Spätburgunder Spätlese Barrique 2009 Baden, Germany
Nose at first reserved....dark berry fruits...much fuller on the palate...I doubt the 2008 ever had this weight...this is a rose waiting to bloom. A few hours in the glass helped...intense richness of this great vintage in Baden...drink the 2008 now and tuck this one away for 2 years
Points 17.25....again...€ 20,--

Vintage 2009 A World Apart

2011-09-19T17:15:00.012+02:00

Across the world...2009 is a Pinot Noir vintage. Two wines miles apart....
Craggy Range Te Muna
Pinot Noir 2009
Martinborough, New Zealand
Medium light in colour....instant cherry on the nose...and some raspberry follows...complex...and the youthfulness appeals at the moment...but this will develop with a few years...so a second bottle needs to be left alone.
Although earthy at the moment...satin smooth tannins...a touch of tar...rose petals...violets...difficult to fully appraise fully and be fair...
Points 17.25...but I am maybe being a little mean as we have a very good wine here

And so to another wine purchased on my recent trip to Baden...

Horst and Petra Konstanzer bottled their first wine in 1983, and in the initial stages from then on considered their winery to be a part-time occupation. However, the success of their products encouraged them to take over the operation of their parents in 1989, which had until then supplied grapes to the local co-operative, and to make a full-time job of winemaking from then on. Today they tend 9 hectares of vineyards. A vineyard to watch....

Konstanzer Ihringer Winkleberg
Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken 2009
Baden, Germany
This has more instant appeal...very juicy...but with a good backbone and perfect balance. Full of ripe fruit...these 2009 reds from Baden are going to be essential buys...but back to this one...and as Herr Konstanzer said...a real glass full of wine..
Points 16.75..and a good value at € 15,--

Wachau + Baden = Pleasure

2011-09-16T14:17:00.006+02:00

Jamek Grüner Veltliner
Smaragd Ried Achleiten 2009
Wachau, Austria
Green tinges to the medium yellow colour...yellow fruits on the nose...yellow apples...that's enough yellow...quite full...and a touch exotic...and thanked me for the 2 days in the fridge...the aformentioned weight is no problem as it dances over the palate...a terroir wine...Jamek wines always seem to show this...a pleasure to drink.
Points 17.75

Konstanzer Pinot Noir 2008
Baden, Germany
Konstanzer owns vines in the well-known Winklerberg vineyards. He recommended I try this and as the 'basic' wines of any property are a sign what the big boys can do....I took his advice and on opening said 'I Like This'. Why?....just because from start to finish it is a real enjoyable wine. Honest red fruit...fresh and soft and juicy...but with a character that makes you sit up as it only cost € 12,--!!! Smokey and a good soft tannic grip...slips down nicely...looking forward to the top wines that I bought.
Points 16.5

Liquid Wages

2011-09-13T17:20:00.021+02:00

I have been back just over a week...and the body is slowly realising it has to work to pay for the wines it is given. Here a few of the 'liquid' wages I have been paid this week.

Schloss Gobelsburg
Grüner Veltliner Lamm 2009
Kamptal, Austria
No way a layed-back wine...this has power...lots of 'up-front' fruit...a little awkward...definite caramel aroma...and some toast...nutty...ripe yellow apples...hidden minerals...which showed better 2 days later. Give this a couple of years and you will be rewarded.
Points 17...with a definite upward tendence.

Gut Nägelsförst Pinot Noir 2005
Baden, Germany
The „Gut Nägelsförst” estate is located in Varnhalt, on the outskirts of Baden-Baden (Ortenau area) in the Baden wine-growing region in Germany. The red wines are all sourced from the Waldulmer Pfarrberg site, which is where our Gasthaus Rebstock is situated....and from the neighbouring Bühlertal valley, which is particularly suited for red wines, as the mountain formation collects the heat. In order to make the most of the tremendous potential of these sites, yields for the top red wines, are kept, where possible, to a level below 20 hectolitres per hectare. The Pinot Noir wines are matured in barriques, mostly of French oak, with 50 to 60% of the barriques being new. The first of many reds I bought on the recent holiday. From the north and there is a more earthy style to it. Dark berry and cherry is what you get from the glass...a touch of oak...cool in character...juicy...cedar...dry smoke..this improved well in the glass...the initial empty middle palate filled with soft strawberry fruit. Will improve surprisingly...
Points 16.5

Off to the local Bistro to meet up with the children... and took along 2 recent buys ...again from Baden. It was going to be a fairly rowdy meeting...we ain't quiet when we meet...so a Bistro who know us is the best place. Good fun was had by all. I don't take any BIG wines along...and the two I chose had both been given 88 points by Gault Millau. If I had the chance...try to compare them.
It turned out to be not that easy...as...as I said...we laugh a lot and wine becomes secondry. Just a few notes I made...and remember...both these wines under € 10,--

Hofgut Consequence
Blauer Burgunder 2008
Baden, Germany
Dry, eathy, spicy...liquorice in the mouth with a nice gentle tannin bite. Perfect Pizza wine or with the kids (all in their 40's) in a Bistro!
Points 16

Hermann Spätburgunder 2008
Baden, Germany
This was softer and more rounded....and really completely different to the above. Maybe not too much going on...was nevertheless real value for money.
Points 16

Alphart Rotgipfler Rodauner
Top Selektion 2009
Thermen Region, Austria
Never had the grape?...me neither. Rotgipfler sounds red...but is a white...and what a white. The nose throws up aromas of pear...and is very Burgundian...bananas, mangoes...very exotic. It spends some time in new oak...and all the above evolves seamlessly onto the palate....compact bundle of minerals rolling around the mouth...salty even......delicious...and always something new to find. Beautiful harmony here. Am I getting to easy to please?...or all my recent white wines just hitting the 'spot?
Points 18....buy this if you see it

Zenhthof Luckert
Grand Noir *** 2007
Franken, Germany
It is what is says on the label....BLACK...and I remembered I had the 2005 a few years ago...and scared a baby when I grinned. This leaves it's colour in the system for 24 hours. A Cuvée of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. This is a BIG wine...meaning complex and not a heavyweight. One thing remains throughout...a coolness. Cassis, of course, dominates the nose.. and there are super layers of dark fruit...dark chocolate...tobacco...and can be enjoyed now, maybe with a juicy steak...but the second bottle will be put away for 5 years.
Points 17.5....more to come

Rebstock Report

2011-09-04T15:28:00.067+02:00

Rebstock Waldum, Baden August/September 2011
It has been a hard year...and our twice a year visit to the Rebstock had not been possible back in May...due to my wife losing her gallbladder...and not being in any state to enjoy a holiday. I, myself, was as empty as I had ever been. I needed a break.

Tuesday 23 August 2011
We arrived early afternoon...the Gasthaus Rebstock is closed Monday and Tuesday midday and we were met by a new addition to the staff, Verena. She kindly helped to carry all our luggage the 3 floors to our room at the top. A lift or elevator will never be built here but my soccer training stands me in good stead. After a car journey then 4 times up and down....you have go to be fit!
Karl Hodapp was in the kitchen and I gave him a bottle of wine. We have this ritual now...and at the end of the holiday he gives me a bottle.
Unpacked...I sat out on the balcony to take in MY view. I have seen it many times but it never fails to move me. A tear and a smile. I decided then & there...every second of this holiday I was going to enjoy. After 9 months of illnesses and up and downs generally...My wife & I have earned this holiday.
We already had the menu and wine list. It was 32 degrees on this day....so we both decided on a light dinner...and as I had abstained from wine for a week...a white would be a good choice.
A brisk walk into the vineyards...where the Spätburgunder grapes were looking healthy...then got ready for dinner.
We, of course, sat outside on the beautiful terrace.We sat under the covered part as my wife does not want the sun when she is eating. It was a wise decision in hindsight...as at 9pm a 10 minutes shower arrived which had everyone heading for cover.

A 'Grüß aus der Küche' arrived from Herr Hodapp...
A Paprika Terrine...light and refreshing.
My wife chose three of a possible 5 'Tasters'.
Tartare von Freilandrind mit Salätchen in der Knuspertüte, Carpaccio von Thunfish mit Melonenperle and kaltes, erfrischedes Gurkensüppchen mit Shrimps.
All very tasty...the only one I would not go back to was the Cucumber Soup....I was once 'overfed' on Cucumber sandwiches in my youth...maybe that is why it is one thing I will try...but never enthuse about.
I decided on the Carpaccio vom Rinderfilet mit kleinem Sommersalätchen und gebackem Strudel vom Ziegenfrischkaäse. Deliciously light again...just a perfect start to a gastronomic adventure.
My wife chose gebratenes Zanderfilet auf hausgemachten Nudeln mit einem Sössle vom gelben Paprika and I opted for Filet vom Steinbeisser unter der Heukruste, angerichtet auf einem 'Gitter' von grünem Spargel mit Pfifferlingsrisotto.

As I mentioned...I had had a short chat with owner Herr Hodapp...and mentioned I was very impressed with the Sauvignon Blancs from South Styria.
Therefore... I was particularly pleased to see an addition the wine-list. My choice on the very warm evening was...
Tement Sauvignon Blanc
Zieregg Barrique 2008
South Styria, Austria
It only confirmed what I already knew...these wines shoud rule the world if you love this grape....or, as in my case...you did not love because you tried those with extreme tarty cat's pee. This has gooseberry but with such a class and style...incisive...steely minerals...a gentle sweetness from the barrique...smokey...I sent the usual glass into the kitchen and was told 'delicious'. I heartily agreed
Points 17.75

Wednesday 24 August 2011
I dragged myself out of bed...the sun was already beating the right drum...it was going to be another hot one. A good breakfast…eaten alone…the usual ritual being that I take coffee and bread roll to wifey who is still sleeping!
A visit to the Mummelsee on the Black Forest High Road. This is a lake high into the hills, frequented by tourists who buy masses of Black Forest ham and Mummelsee bottled water. It is, however, a pleasant walk around the lake.
Back at Rebstock and we sat on the terrace at around 3.30pm...with a couple of tables still eating from lunchtime!
My first Havana...a Siglo 11 and a Latte...and as usually happens...I ended up chatting to a couple who had just arrived. ..friendly fellow that I am!
Around 5 pm the rain came down...and how...and the staff had to clear all the tables not covered on the terrace.
Our usual table undercover is where we chose for this evening. My wife had enjoyed the Gurkensüppchen taster from the day before...so took two portions...maybe tomorrow three!
I decided to try one of the delicious soups as well...Schaumsüppchen von gelben Paprika, mit einem leichtem badischen Klösschen aus Weck, Rahmkäs und Sommerkräutern.
Eva chose the im Ofen geschmorte Tomate mit einer Fülle von Badischen Rahmkäse und Oliven, angerichtet auf grünem Spargel dazu leichte Klösschen mit Sommerkräuten.
I needed Duck for the red I was going to try.
Gebratenes Brüstchen von der Bauerente mit Blütenhonig glasiert, angerichtet mitBühler Zwetschgenmaultäschle- und Kompott, dazu Kartoffel-Quark-Rädle.
The gentle sweetness of the plums and the perfect roast Duck needed something special.

On our last visit the Molitor had been on the wine-list.
Not yet delivered I was told then...and every day I waited in vain. Two days after we got back home...I got an email that is had arrived. Too late to try in 2010.
One year on...was it worth the wait?
Markus Molitor
Graacher Himmelreich *** Pinot Noir 2007
Mosel, Germany
Mosel? Red? Are you crazy?...we'll discuss the answer to the last part another time.
If the world climate keeps changing there will be more Pinot Noir wines coming out of this, primarily Riesling, area in maybe 10 years. And if the Molitor is anything to go by...we are in for a treat.
The bottle has what would have Jim Clenenden in California smiling...a large punt.
But what's inside...the answer here...is heaven. PPC...Perfect Pinot Colour...and a gorgeous ripe nose.The palate throws up gentle spices...toast and smoke...clear incisive fruit...a youthful bitter note which is positive...tannin present but woven into the whole....14% would scare me usually but nothing scary about this top wine. Very drinkable now...which I did...sending the usual glass into the kitchen for the boss to try.
Points 18....no other choice...Mosel Red Rules!

Thursday 25 August 2011
Checking the weather forecast before we left...it seemed the first 4 days were going to be hot. We may have to change that outlook as there are some clouds still hanging over the vineyards at 11 am. Some rain later I have been told...we will see.
I bought a headset for Eva.She watches TV until late....has to turn up the volume as I usually snore after red wine.
Just lazed really all day and around midday it was very humid...and the body is not quite sure why it does not have appointments or has to answer a phone.
Dinner out on the terrace and the weather was cooler.

My wife opted for only two portions of the cucumber soup...and I remembered the day in Burgundy eating snails by the dozen...and ordered the Schneckenrahhsüppchen.
A kross gebratener Spanferkelrücken mit cremigen Wirsing, Pfifferlingen und Kartoffelgratin was the plate that Mrs Fowden received.
A last minute decision had been made regarding the wine...I was going to drink white...but the Schitzel vom Kalbrücken mit einem Rahmsössle von Pfifferlingen und Kässpätzle swayed me to a red.

Aldinger Fellbacher Lämmler
Lemberger G.G. 2007
Württemberg, Germany
On a previous visit I had asked Herr Hodapp if he had considered putting a wine from Wurttemberg on his list. I didn't get exactly a shocked look...but he wasn't instantly responsive.
The whole area is Baden-Württemberg...but 2 completely different wine areas and I guessed you didn't talk about the 'other side'.
Therefore...on opening the wine-list this time I was pleased to see additions from other areas...and...would you believe it...one from over the 'border'
A top property...Aldinger makes Lemberger in the style I like. A medium deep colour...and 'tears' streaming down the glass. Cool was my first impression...a lazy easy style...soft but earthy...and as it aired the fruit sweetened...was there some cinnamon in there?...definitely some spices...and it slips down without any pain at all. Ready now but would hold 10 years.
Points 17.5

Friday 26 August 2011
My wife joined me for breakfast...which meant we could make an early start. We set off along a small back road and ended up driving on VERY narrow lanes for about 30 minutes. Impressive countryside...although my wife closed her eyes a few times...and I had to concentrate on the driving. We hit Ottenhöfen and set off up to the Schwarzwaldhochstrasse continuing on the highest point where there is a single Wind Machine. Wild and impressive views abound. On the way back we entered Oberkirch. I have a stamp album about 100 years old and wanted someone at a Auction House to have a browse. They sent an unsympathetic person who quickly turned a few pages and then said it was worth nothing. So the 6 course lunch with a bottle of Krug was cancelled!
Seriously though...it has been in the family so long...I guess it deserves to remain with us. Lunch in Oberkirch was a light salad and a glass of Apfelschorle.
The weather was still holding...32 degrees...but there was something in the air. I had the daily Latte and cigar on the terrace...then went up to the room where my wife was relaxing. We had met a couple from Ravensburg the previous day and had asked them to join us for dinner. A table on the terrace had been reserved. No way was that going to happen.
At 6pm as we saw the dark clouds roll over the vineyards...all hell broke loose. It was as if someone was throwing golf balls right and left. After the initial onslaught...the size lessened but was no less intensive. Scary and amazing....and no way could we sit outside tonight.
This was confirmed when we went down to the restaurant...and so a large table in the corner had been reserved.
Herr & Frau Reiff appeared and after the few exchanges of what had been done all day...they both agreed that they had complete trust in me choosing the wines.

My wife chose the Klares Süppchen vom Tafelspitzbmit Markklöschen und Pfifferlingsmaultäschle and I finally got round to trying the gebratene Jakobmuschel auf Lauch und Pfifferlingen.
The wine I had had a few times on previous visits...it remains on the list because not many people would know much about Grüner Veltliner in Baden. I found out a few days later that this was the last bottle.
Hirschberger Rotes Tor
Grüner Veltliner 2003
Wachau, Austria
Perfect now...and it impressed our dinner guests.
Points 17.75
It seems the American market has found Grüner Veltliner giving it a 'modern name 'Groovy' (a play with words...Grü-Ve)
As long as they don't take too much of it and spoil it for us GV lovers.

The main course for my wife had been decided the previous evening...as I had enjoyed the Schnitzel vom Kalbrücken very much. My choice for the planned red was Medaillon vom Kaninchenrücken im Achtertäler Salamimantel, Rosette vom Sommergemüse und Thymianröstkartoffele.

Dr. Heger Achkarrer Schlossberg
Spätburgunder 2007
Baden, Germany.
Heger is one of the top properties and I can't ever remember tasting a disappointing wine from him. This was not exception. While the 2007 vintage has always been accessible...only now are the top wines leveling out and showing real class. Burnt caramel and marzipan...which involved into Strawberry. My description of Marzipan is more an impression than a definite aroma...it is just something that I associate with fine Pinot Noir from Baden.
Points 18

The rain was still coming down and never seemed to stop all night. What would tomorrow bring...read on dear readers.

Saturday 27 August 2011
The sun crawled over the hills...and is was definitely 10 degrees colder than the previous morning. My wife had the usual appointment at the hairdressers....at midday.
A light lunch in the restaurant (soup) then we set of for Sinzheim, a small village south of Baden-Baden...for no particular reason...just to have a short drive. The aray of clouds above were impressive if disturbing. Hanging over the hills...the sun trying to fight it's way through...and the woods on the hills showing why they call the area The Black Forest.
A short visit to the church in Sinzheim...the third one in a couple of days...and the same as before...riches beyond belief. The Catholics of a few hundred years ago certainly put plenty in the collection box!
Checking my Gault Millau I saw that the property of Bürg Nägelsförst was situated nearby in the village of Varnhalt. I've learned not to always trust the Sat-Nav in the car when surrounded by vineyards...and even though I asked directions...the instructions from the lady in the dashboard were good. The property is up on the hill....and we drove into the courtyard shortly before 4pm...just making it before closing time. A delightful small shop was where the friendly lady greeted us. As I knew what awaited me in the evening...I said I would not try anything...and purchased 3 Spätburgunder. There was a offer of some 2002...and after trying a 'small' glass bought 3 bottles. It was holding well...and would find it's way to a couple of friends.

Back to the Rebstock...the weather somewhat calmer...but we chose our usual table inside the Gasthof.
Earlier that day Herr Hodapp had taken me down the cellar and said he had a wine that I could drink that evening...on the house. Hardly the house wine...but a top Huber. He hadn't tried it yet..and the usual ritual when I drink in the evening is to send a glass into the kitchen. As my intake is around 0.5 liter it is the perfect solution.
The bottle, decanted, was waiting for me on arrival. Some warm soup for the cool skin....even after a shower to warm you up...it's inside where the most warmth is needed.
The Quail was on the menu for the first time....on arrival we had search for it. Last year's version had been with a Blood Sausage filling. This time....aus dem Ofen: gefüllte Wachtel (entbeint) mit cremigen Wirsing, Pfifferlingen & Kartoffelgratin.
Huber Hecklinger Schlossberg R
Spätburgunder 2008
Baden, Germany
I had purchased the 2007 from the property last May and am tryint to leave it alone...so I didn't expect anything to spring out of the glass. Cool, spicy aromas...definite violets....very savoury...a touch of polish at first but the airing released a cherry flavour...the tannins are medium soft and there are traces of the silky texture. This is not a brooder needing time...a more delicate style but still requiring some years to sprout it's buds.
Points 17.5

Sunday 28 August 2011
My wife was going to sleep long....so I was down for breakfast at 9 am. If the weather is fine...I sneak out onto the terrace to finish off my cup of tea and read. Claudi is out there today....wiping down the tables after all the rain...and the heavens are blue and the sun is warm. Typing these notes , glancing up to see the surrounding beauty of the area, stretching the legs, breathing in the clean air....this is still our little Heaven On Earth.
With the sky still very blue I set off up the hill at the back of the hotel...the view seen from our hotel balcony...and wandered through the vineyards for an hour. The grapes are looking healthy although a few corners had been affected by the storm on Friday.

Then out on the terrace for some lunch...the Filet von der Rotbarbe auf einer Art Bauerngröstl (mit Bratkatoffel, Parmaschinken, Kräuter und Tomatensalsa) and a non-alcoholic cocktail. The restaurant is usually packed on Sunday...and with the fine weather was bursting at the seams. Then over to the smoker's corner for a Siglo 1 Cigar and a Latte. The suntan had been improved as I had been out in it for 3 hours...perfect temperature though and again...the world was at peace.Typing this as I sit on the balcony...must decide what to drink tonight...there is a Riesling Smaragd 2006 from F.X. Pichler that needs trying....and a Adeneuer Walporzheimer Gärkammer Spätburgunder G.G. from the Ahr...although it is a 2008 and may be still too beefy. Maybe try the Becker St Paul Spätburgunder 2007...which I have in my celler back home or the Fürst Bürgstadter Centengrafberg Frühburgunder R Reserve 2007. There are some 'foreign' red wines from France, Italy and the New World...but I have been there before...and drinking them alone leaves you gasping for someone to share....whereas the Pinot grape just lends itself to the food and the single drinker.
We had been warned it could be a little cool later on the terrace but it was so inviting...and everyone was out there. One thing that suffers with a cool evening later...is a red wine...I usually end up with the bottle between my legs. So I decided it would be the Riesling and chose appropriately.
Zander und Jakobsmuschel im Parmaschinkenmäntele, angerichtet mit Achtäler Steinpilzsössle, und selbstgemachter Spaghettinudeln.

F.X. Pichler Smaragd Steinertal 2006
Wachau, Austria
As with the GV...I found out late this was also the last bottle again...perfect at 5 years old...a beautiful ripe Riesling with a light sprinkling of minerals keeping it lively.
Points 17.5
With the addition of a light pullover...we enjoyed a delightful summer evening.

Monday 29 August 2011
My wife was up early...I knew there was something brewing. 'Can we drive to the town where they sell the chocolate?' Kenzingen is about 70 kms away and the shops close at midday...so we set of just before 11 and got there with 20 minutes to spare. One of the shops had gone 'bust'...it was no more...but my Eva found some fine chocolate at the other one. They had a couple of Huber reds so the 'taxi driver' was paid very well.
Nothing else was planned...my wife said the rest of the day I could plan. I had most of my notes and books in the car....so I decided to visit a few properties. The larger ones have their wines generally available on most good lists...and I do enjoy searching out the 'lesser known' Weinguts.
It is better to call in advance as with small properties you may find the doors closed as they are out in the vineyards,
First up was a short drive to Köndringen...and I had first tried
the wine 4 years ago when a merchant in Freiburg had recommended the 2005 Spätburgunder.
Weingut Zalwander
While the wines were being collected the lady told us to walk around the garden. There was everything in there...but the 'highlight' were the Wasp Spiders.

Lunch over Bötzingen
We had made a couple of sandwices from the breakfast buffet...and on arriving in Kaiserstuhl found a bench in Bötzingen overlooking the beautiful countryside. I called the three properties I had chosen and all agreed I could come....100% success!

Weingut Konstanzer
Ihringen is where Dr. Heger is situated...and I was tempted...but wanted to take in Herr Konstanzer. His wife greeted us and her husband led us into the tasting room. I hardly ever taste...I know what I want and will try it at home...and then order.
Six bottles found their way into the car....even some from the 2009 vintage.

Weingut Hermann
Next stop was Vogtsburg...
No 2009 available yet...late September was Frau Hermann's reply...
Another 6 bottles in the boot.

Hofgut Consequence
Last on the list was a property I had tried to visit last year...Hofgut Consequence in Vogtsburg-Bischoffingen...so I was particularly pleased to get the chance today. Frau Schmidt met me and I asked what vintages were available. She gave me a list and explained they were the last in the name Consequence. Their future grapes would be going into a new project. A few houses along is another Weingut 'Abril' and there is building going on as you leave the village.

We set off back to the Rebstock...which is closed on Monday. It had been a long day...and my wife was having second thoughts about driving again that evening. I had searched for a good Thai restaurant in Baden- Baden...so I was pleased my wife agreed. It is a 30 minute drive into a town of wealth. Our restaurant was, however, down a side street and on entering only confirmed what I had heard. There were tables, a bar, one of the staff looking after her baby, a Karaoke bar downstairs...and nobody in there. I knew all this so was prepared. A mixture of guests started to arrive...and the food was VERY Thai which is why I was happy to ignore the surroundings. If you are ever in Baden-baden...it is called An An Restaurant.
I had parked in a side street and needed to find the main road to the autobahn and we set off with the navigation system on the car telling us to turn left, right, left....all within a few hundred meters....so I decided to do what I have done in 45 years of driving...follow my nose....and we arrived back in Waldulm still discussing exactly what the restaurant really was!

Tuesday 30 August 2011
After breakfast I asked Verena to open the terrace door ( the restaurant opens again this evening)....and here I am typing away with another fine day of weather ahead.
Three hours later, after listening to some music on the Notebook ( Ben. E. King....perfect), my suntan even better...(People will think I have been to Spain) my Sleeping Beauty awoke and asked to be driven to the Mummelsee to buy some Ham....and this done...and ANOTHER walk round the sea...we returned for dinner.
Obviously after a week there will be repeats from the menu...but the Wachtel tasted even better this time around.

In May 2009 I had tried the Gantenbein 2007...it had been completely uninterested in being drunk.
Time to try it again.
Gantenbein Pinot Noir 2007
Switzerland
What an improvement! Very fine classy nose...more dry wood than wet moss...soft earthy elegance...one moment the medium tannins are there...then you brush them aside with the next swallow and you can feel the gentle fruit emerging. Cool wild raspberries seemed to fit nicely.What a cracker of a wine..and it is not finished yet. Next year...try again.
Points 18.25

Wednesday 31 August 2011
A drive to Durlach...The Andreas Laible property is situated at the back of the village on the right...up a hill...and this is where the two sons grew up and learned their trade. Five years ago the younger, Alexander, decided he wanted to go it alone leaving elder brother Andreas to take the reins at their father's Weingut.
When I tasted Alexander's Riesling wines a couple of years ago it was obvious he was a talented winemaker. For a short time he used an old bakery as H.Q. then started to build a permanent place to rest.
This is where we headed for...and I had called in advance as Alexander Laible is not always around.
Two miles further on from his elder brother's property we found it in Durbach-Unterweiler...and very impressive it looks. We entered the shop and he greeted us...and I knew then that we had an instant rapport. He knows what he is doing, what he wants, and where he is going. He has already been voted one of the young rising stars in Germany.
He is 32 and his pretty wife is expecting a baby. I asked about 2009 reds...and was told they were all sold!!!! See what I mean...he is going places...and he asked about whites...but it was the darker colour I was after. The 2010 vintage was available and although I had my doubts...I have the feeling I will be happy with the purchase. He asked if I could help to get contact in the UK...and I said I would try and get back to him.

The weather was hot...and if you are in Durbach at lunchtime...the place to go is Schloss Staufenberg...the castle on the hill overlooking miles of countryside. It can be cool up there...but today it was perfect. They serve Flammenkuchen...and have a basic menu card....lots of hikers & walkers appear...and the place if full in no time. Breathtaking view.

I popped into the shop and bought some 2009 then back to Waldulm....parked by the soccer field and we walked along a pathway we know well...where every tree and bush has a sign explaining what it is. At the end of the path is the duck pond...with the birds going about their business...great viewing.

My wife needed a break from eating...so I dined alone...catching up on some reading I had wanted to do all holiday.
I chose the Steak...Entrecote vom Weidenrind mit Kruste von Senf, Thymian und etwas grünem Pfeffer, angerichtet mit Bohnenröllchen und Bratkartoffelpüree...
and chose a wine that Herr Hodapp had warned me not to try last time. However...he had tried it again in December...and in the FINE Magazine...it is given a postive tasting note.

Dr.Heger Ihringer Winklerberg 2003
Baden, Germany
The vintage had been VERY hot...and many wines are now showing the heat...but it seems the Winklerberg managed to deal with it. It has certainly held well and is still in fine balance...defying it's age with it juicy feel...acidity and tannin nicely intact and well-balanced.
Points 17.25

Thursday 1 September 2011
Medium deep clouds hanging over the hills...then at 11.30 the fruit burst through and expanded onto the palate. By midday it was a beautiful day again...and a lunch on the terrace and a final cigar. After lunch we went to a VERY good local supermarket in Achern to stock up for the coming weekend at home. A refreshing drink on the terrace then a short rest before going down to dinner.Thankfully the heat of the day meant we could spend our last evening outside.
A taster curtesy of Herr Hodapp was the Gooseliver on sweet Sauerkraut...something we had missed this time...I guess next week it would be on the menu somewhere. I opted for the gebratene Jakobmuschel auf Lauch und Pfifferlingen again and as a main course the Medaillon vom Lammrücken im Mantel aus Thymian-Ziegenkäse, dazu eine Garnitur von Tomaten und Ratatouille, mit Olivenplätzchen.

It is rare that I order a wine in a restaurant if I have it in my cellar...but the Becker is good...and not overpriced on the wine-list.
Weingut Friedrich Becker Spätburgunder trocken
'St. Paul' Grosses Gewächs 2007
Pfalz, Germany
Great nose!...intense dry strawberry...gentle rippling tannins...man is this good...it just lies so beautiful on the palate...
The normal procedure every evening...is to send a glass to Karl Hodapp in the kitchen. Same again this evening...BUT...with difficulty***!
Points 18

Friday 2 September 2011
Those clouds were there again...and this time there was rain...making it easier to pack and leave. We said goodbye to all the staff....Karl Hodapp gave me a bottle of wine...his wife Sandra Stark wished us well...and we were gone.
We have to say many thanks to Karl & Sandra...and their team in the restaurant.
Bettina, Claudi, Ina, Jeanette, Moritz, Simone & Verena...and to all the unseen ones who perform in the kitchen...Bettina's husband Oliver Vogel is now joint Chef de Cuisine. He is a Manchester United fan (I am a Manchester City fan)...but we still eat what he cooks (smile).
We look forward to our next visit.

Best Silvaner Ever Tasted!

2011-08-19T13:21:00.016+02:00

Volker said a few months ago...I would like to try a top Silvaner! I phoned him and said I had a couple of wines that needed tasting...and he offered to cook dinner. Some delicious Pasta as a first course and then some tender Guinea Fowl. I always enjoy Volker's cooking...good quality products and so I had to work for my dinner.
Sauvingon Blanc I said....2006....Sabathi. Now...you may think...wow...that was good...but on seeing the label I noticed it wasn't the Sabithi (Erwin) that I tipped...but Sabathi (Hannes). Still...not bad...2 out of 3!

Hannes Sabathi
Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2006
South Styria, Austria
Aromas of citrus fruit and gooseberries...with some toast. This spends 3 years in Barrique. Creamy texture with a spicy mineral feel...and a good finish. Lots to enjoy here.
Points 17.25

And so to the reason for the meeting of friends and serves blind so that Volker would not be influenced.

Zehnthof Luckert
Silvaner * * * 2009
Franconia, Germany
Volker said a touch of Riesling and maybe some Grüner Veltliner...and he is right. Put some Burgundy in the mix and you will describe this wine perfectly. Just a beautiful nose....a trace of cream...honey...compact...the flavour just melts in the mouth...that 'classy' Burgundy feel again...but...this is Silvaner! And what a Silvaner! There are spices to combat that cream...and a minerality to add to it's pluses. As perfect as it can get with the grape. None better has passed my lips. We both agreed...
Points 18...THE BEST SILVANER EVER TASTED

Uwe Schiefer
Blaufränkisch 'Szapary' 2008
Südburgenland, Austria
I am still trying to fall in love with Austrian Blaufränkisch...and have decided they need more time than say...Lemberger in Germany. They are chunky at times...needing food. This has a cherry nose...and a red berry flavour...salty, spicy with a good backbone of acidity.
Points 16.25

Austrian Journey Continues

2011-08-09T17:23:00.008+02:00

Some more Austrian wines...this time from three different areas...it is a pleasant journey...
Bründlmayer Chardonnay 2007
Kamptal, Austria
Now this is how to make Chardonnay!
As long as I can remember Bründlmayer has been making great wines. I think the first Chardonnay I tried from Austria was over 20 years ago...and his name was on the bottle.
This is bristling with minerals...not something you can say about all Chardonnay wines...but it still offers that delicious layer of soft vanilla. The man uses his oak correctly!There is not a trace of flabbiness...just a yellow apple fruit....and some pearls of acidity...and as you may have guessed...I like this and will buy more.
Points 17.25

Muhr von der Niepoort
Spitzerberg 2008
Carnuntum, Austria
This wine is 100% Blaufraenkisch. Half of the wine is made by fermenting whole bunches with the stems, and then pressing off at just the right time to get the extraction right. The other half is made with an extended maceration on the skins of three months.
You'd think Pinot Noir is you had tasted blind. The colour is medium deep with a watering rim. Semi-sweet nose of ripe cherries....very enticing...this creeps up on you and developed well...the palate then shows some raspberry confit...all in all...a very impressive wine. I used a new 'pump' which claims it preserves whatever is left in the bottle to help keep it overnight...it seemed to work...the wine had softened even more.
Points 17.5

Krutzler Blaufränkisch Reserve 2008
Südburgenland, Austria
After the Spitzerberg I was quite hopeful of getting a repeat here. This was cherry chunky...firm tannins...liquorice traces...and needing air. We sat outside in a nearby restaurant...one of our guests had Hungarian roots....and I explained that the grape is called Lemberger in German....and Kékfrankos in Hungary. I can be very informative at times!
Points 16

Silvaner Surprise

2011-08-05T17:37:00.006+02:00

Zehnthof Luckert
Silvaner Gelbkalk 2009
Franconia, Germany
A nose I am not familiar with...due to the fact that I have HARDLY EVER tried Silvaner wines...due to the fact that they had never impressed. However...they are appearing all over the place...making a comeback, so to speak....and so I thought I would try a couple. This property is highly rated in Franconia...and the area has always been associated with the grape. Back to the nose...yellow fruits...a mix of apples and pears...and the fatness of previous examples was not evident here. Minerality...lovely lively stuff...cinammon on the palate and a gentle steeliness making a wine at the price...€ 15,-- that is worth testing folks.
Points 16.5...
Yes I know it's 16.5 again...purely coincidence....all the wines tried recently have pleased...but just missing hitting the 17 point mark

Red Austrians

2011-08-05T14:15:00.016+02:00

Rough notes made over a few days...I have invested in a few more Austrians...this time of the colour red.

Christian Fischer
Cuvée Grandenthal 2008
Thermenregion, Austria
Zwiegelt, Cabernet & Merlot. An easy, delightful wine, goes down without a hitch...sour cherry fruit...and decent length...which makes it well worth the price.
Points 16.5 € 20,--

Jagini Zagersdorf 2007
Neusiedlersee-Hügelland
A new project from Robert Velich and Hannes Schuster...this being the first vintage. Now...while I am not adverse to some softness in wines...there has always to be a bite. This 100% Blaufränkisch has a whiff of violets...and some cherry notes....and an elegance that makes it very easy to drink now... methinks this may go into shell...and maybe reappear with the bite I was asking for.
Points 16.5 € 33,--

K +K Kirnbauer Das Phantom 2008
Mittelburgenland, Austria
Blaufränkisch...also known as Lemberger here in Germany...usually has an earthy character...and that is the first impression here...although the Cabernet Sauvignon is well to the fore. This is a Cuvée from the two aforementioned grapes...plus some Merlot and Syrah. Deep garnet red colour...cassis(CS)...cherry and a whiff of vanilla. This is aged for 18 months in small oak barrel...there is a fresh acidity throughout... a useful wine with food.
Points 16.5 € 24,--

Red Vintage 2009

2011-07-30T14:35:00.006+02:00

The vintage 2009....wherever you hear or read...a red wine vintage...definitely in Germany...and I am on the lookout now as the mid to top wines are released. New Zealand Pinot is being highly talked about for the vintage...and even Beaujolais is to be searched out. The U.S.A. not to be left behind, are saying it is the best Pinot year ever!
Jim Clendenen was destined to be a lawyer when a holiday trip to Burgundy infused him with the idea of becoming a wine grower instead. He returned to California, rejected all notions of a career in the law and established Au Bon Climat Winery in 1982. The vines he planted lie at the foot of the Bien Nacido vineyard, one of the finest sites in California, ideal for the production of the refined, Burgundian style of Pinot Noir to which Jim so aspires. He has always been a favourite of mine...and I have rarely had a poor bottle...no matter what vintage!
Au Bon Climat Santa Maria Valley
Pinot Noir 2009
California, U.S.A.
Dark smokey nose...cherries...juicy and velvety...cinnamon flavour...cool...no fat & sweet style here...Jim is a master of his trade. A fruity dancer with all ingredients perfectly shared.
Points 17.25

and after all the above... I was tempted to open this 'baby'

Ata Rangi
Pinot Noir 2009
Martinborough, New Zealand
Nose was very tight....and at first seems green...loads of dark fruits hidden behind the mask...cherries and rose petals with airing. Surprisingly more attractive on the palate...very fine tannins....soft earthy flavour....but again...a lot of it is guessing at the moment. Glad I tried it now...but the second bottle gets left in the cellar a while.
Points 17.5...but with a point more in 5 years

Big Can Be Beautiful

2011-07-23T12:10:00.004+02:00

In this world of obesity, big is not always beautiful.
A few months again, on Ebay, I purchased a magnum.
Now, Magnums are rare in my cellar as when I have wine friends over we like to have variety.
So there it lay...waiting for the moment to be let loose.
Daughter Number 1 and her hubby came to visit and we had Sushi.
Now was the moment...but would we be bored after half of it?
The answer is....NO!

Kurt Angerer Spies
Grüner Veltliner 2003
Kamptal, Austria
Perfect now...in a Magnum...although it showed so well... I suspect the normal size would please.
Cream throughout...the nose very attractive with it's soft vanilla, it has some spice and pepper but less so now with age. Precise...with a fine thread of minerality. Just lovely on the palate....caramel tones...and an intense soft 'burnt' finish. It has a high 14.5% alcohol but hardly noticeable now it has 8 years in the bottle. Perfect with the Sushi which was very fresh...and as we had not had any for a while...was particularly enjoyed. Sometimes simple things just give perfect moments (although Sushi and GV may not to exactly simple to some)
Points 17.25

Best Home for Sauvignon Blanc?

2011-07-23T08:48:00.012+02:00

Sauvignon Blanc was never a grape that was constantly passing my lips...and don't expect me to suck on a gooseberry if you offered me one!.
However, I am being convinced more and more that in Austria...there are great wines made from the grape and, more importantly, wines made in a style that suit me.
The two below are obviously from the top end...but were worth every penny.

Neumeister Sauvignon Blanc
Moarfeitl 2009
South East Styria, Austria
Not a well-known property....More gloss than glass if you get my drift...but that is not a complaint...just the way the wine comes over. A luxurious Sauuvignon Blanc aroma...large barrels are used but the oak comes over so well integrated...there are exotic fruits and yellow peppers...and a trace of vanilla. Even at this age it is very drinkable and very harmonious. Soft and mild even....but on the second day it broadened it's shoulders and there was a gentle explosion of fruit on the palate. A solid wine with mild acidity...and as do many of the Smaragd wines of Austria...they remind me a lot of excellent Condrieu...which gets me every time.
Points 17.75

Tement Sauvignon Blanc
Zieregg 2008
South Styria, Austria
Manfred Tement is more well-known however....Glass Stopper...Purists...get used to it! A spiky diamond...intense lychees and grapefruit...very fine acidity pushing the fruit upwards and onwards...elegant and good use of oak...will improve even more
Points 17.5 - 17.75

Classic Whites

2011-07-16T11:34:00.012+02:00

Volker had returned from Austria and called to say the usual 'trio'...Robert, our wine-merchant friend and the two of us should meet at his place. Each person bringing a bottle of white. Ah ha I thought....Volker's wine will be something he bought in South Styria. It had been a warm day and we sat under the veranda which was a good idea as the heavens opened about the same time we opened the three whites. All were covered up and we drew lots to decide the order. My wine was first up
F.X. Pichler
Riesling Smaragd von der Terrassen 1998
Wachau, Austria
White wine at this age is a risk so I had taken along another bottle of wine in case. Thankfully...no worries...it was holding up well. Golden colour and a very ripe Riesling smell.
Points 17.25

Robert's choice was next.
Gantenbein Chardonnay 2009
Fläsch, Switzerland
I guessed a top Chardonnay but no idea from where. What a lovely surprise when I saw what it was. A week earlier I had been chatting with Robert and casually mentioned that, although I had tried a few of the property's great Pinot Noir, I had never tasted the Chardonnay. It is rare...and costs around € 90,--. Is it worth it.? Almost...if you are tasting it today...which we were....but this will improve to be a great white wine. The first impression is intense minerals, citrus fruit. Classy and elegant...and a gorgeous middle palate. Classic Chardonnay
Points 18

And so to Volker's choice.
Wittmann Westhofener
Morstein Riesling G G 2009
Rheinhessen, Germany
Fresh, steely, so very drinkable...which had us thinking it was a few years older. Austrian Riesling I said...and Volker grinning said no. He had actually gone out that day and purchased the wine....knowing we would think Austria after his holiday. Great balance...creamy...apricots...juicy acidity...very good.
Points 17.25

Volker had bought a lot of wine back and was particularly happy about a wine he had been offered at knock-down price of € 13,--
Sighardt Donabaum
Grüner Veltliner Zornberg Smaragd 2007
Wachau, Austria
Spicy and peppery with a glossy feel. Yellow fruit on the nose. A bargain indeed.
Points 16.25

Sandwich Surprise

2011-07-09T17:38:00.025+02:00

Life is full of ups and downs. I guess my experience with the business maybe hardens you...or prepares you better for the surprises in life. I have maybe more 'problems' to solve with the business in one month that most people have in a whole year.
So...where are we going with this?
The post heading is a Sandwich Surprise.
Top layer of this sandwich was another visit to Restaurant Ambiente. We had been very busy so decided to do a 'business dinner' inviting out my secretary and her husband. Both are lovers of fine wine....so it was a pleasure to choose and take along three favourites of mine from over the last year. It was a warm evening...and we sat out in the garden area...the restaurant was quiet so the evening was very relaxed with owner Riccardo and Chef de Cuisine Fernando having plenty of time to please us.

Wieninger Chardonnay
Grand Select 2007
Vienna, Austria
What an aroma...Coconut, Nougat Toffee...the oak very much in the background... Creamy texture...complete harmony...lemon flavoured...and a complete success.
Points 18

Drautz-Able Jodokus 2001
Württemberg, Germany
Medium colour with a pale orange rim..danger if I hadn't gotten that pre-smell. OK..nose...delicate...sweet cream...this spends 3 years in oak. The palate showed almost no tannins...although there was a holding spice that strokes the soft 'fruity' fruit...fine gentle earthiness...dry cigar....there is Cabernet Sauvignon in this Cuvée. Perfect maturity
Points 17.25

Köhler-Ruprecht 'Philippi' '
RR' Spätburgunder 1998
Pfalz, Germany
Bernd Philippi is an individualist....not everything turns out right that he releases...BUT...when it does work..his wines are a revelation. His Riesling both 'R' and 'RR' are not to be missed...as are also his Spätburgunder. He releases them when he thinks they are ready...
Here the cork was fully moist..and difficult to extract. I had taken along my 'Butler's Friend' and it was needed.This is lighter in colour than the 1999...and it also a more delicate example. Sweet strawberries spring from the glass..a gentle rippling flavour..mineral and tobacco..it slowly opened up...but remained a layed-back lady...nice earthiness..more than any other area in German..the Pfalz displays it's 'terroir'..a pleasure to drink
Points 17.5

The filling to this sandwich is the surprise.
The day before we went out to dinner on Tuesday I had noticed, in the dark, a flashing light to the left of my left eye. I called the eye doctor next day and made an appointment for Thursday morning at 8.am. First in to see him...we chatted about food and restaurants first...then some drops in the eye to enlarge the pupils...then a good look. 'You have a small hole in your eye' he said!!! Needs to be operated on quickly. He explained that his laser machine was being repaired...so he started to phone around and found a doctor in nearby Mainz. He informed them that the pupils were prepared and gave me the address. With my sunglasses on (those drops make it impossible to drive..I was on my bike back to the office. My secretary insisted on driving me to Mainz and I arrived at 9.45am
The doctor there checked the eye...'You have a big hole' he stated. I thought....one hour ago it was small! He explained what would be done and that I must not move. So...chin on a ledge...gripping onto the apparatus...I awaited the laser shots. Some were painful...others were just blinding lights. If you are cringing by now...join the queue! It seemed like 10 minutes but was probably only two....then it was over. He patted me on the hand and said...'well done..you were very still'. 244 Shots he said!!!
I got a taxi home and was sat in the office at 11.am, Three hours...amazing. Instruction were...no football and stay off the PC...the movement from keyboard to monitor was not good for a few days.
I tried until the evening...but our international business relies heavily on emails...so sat with my left hand over my eye. There was bleeding from the op....which means you see like a black eyelash moving about. It is slowly getting better day by day. That is normal my eye doctor tells me.

As so to the bottom part of the sandwich.
We had promised 2 friends we would take them out to dinner.
We decided again on Restaurant Ambiente. The lady was a wine drinker but her hubby was happy to drink beer. I took along two bottles.
It was Friday and as the weather had improved the restaurant was full. This meant waiting to order and we ate later than planned. Made a note...go midweek next time. Riccardo apologized as many customers had arrived without ordering a table and, as can happen, everybody arrived at once.
It was, however, a very enjoyable evening as I was on top form and we laughed a lot.
The white wine was very good.
Chateau Tuilerie Eole Blanc 2007
Languedoc, France
A cuvee of 40% Rolle, 20% Viognier, 10% Grenache Blanc..with Rousanne, Marsanne & Clairette making up the rest...grown on sandstone soil..only 4000 bottles were produced..so there will be 3999 that can be enjoyed as much as we did. Fresh sparkling colour..green tinges...a wild aroma...you can feel the countryside...reserved nutty bouquet...and some citrus fruit...but it's the taste that wins it points...it fairly explodes onto the palate..loads of minerals bouncing about..and an intense creaminess..and a good long finish. Excellent wine.
Points 17.5
　

Diel Pinot Noir Caroline 2008
Nahe Germany
The red I will refrain from writing notes....the evening had cooled and, although showing all it's qualities, needed a more focused
investigation.

Drinking South Styria

2011-07-09T17:00:00.010+02:00

Friend Volker and his wife Steffi had gone on holiday for 10 days....their destination?...Austria Südsteiermark (South Styria).
A postcard arrived with Volker looking more like an evangelist preacher than someone who wrote that food,wine and views were superb.

Not to be outdone...and it was planned anyway...I went into my wine cellar and pulled out two recent purchases. The Südsteiermark, as I have noted before on the blog, is the place to buy very good...great even, Sauvignon Blanc.

Polz Sauvignon Blanc
Hochgrassnitzberg 2008
South Styria, Austria
Aromas of cassis and ripe gooseberries...loads of minerals here...and a real explosion on the palate. LET IT AIR!
What an exciting and complex jungle of exotischism. Wild herbs...just the right balance of zippy citrus acidity and a lingering finish of perfection.. Top SB!
Points 17.75

Willi Sattler Sauvignon Blanc
Privat 2006
South Styria, Austria
This is not so much your 'green green grass' SB...more a soft butterball, If I had tasted this blind I would have been uncertain at first. Super complex aroma of exotic fruit...with a gentle creaminess. As it opens only then do you get a shot of the grape's natural character. A super length of flavour and I was putting this in the top 10 SB's that I have ever tried. Judge it as white wine maybe and not as a typical Sauvignon Blanc...but whatever you do...get to try it!
Points 18
Perfect with Antipasti

Not sure what wines Volker tried on holiday...we are meeting up in a couple of days. While he had the real Südsteiermark...my liquid Virtual Reality was a very fine second.

Sausages, Thai Food and Good Wines

2011-06-25T14:59:00.049+02:00

Steffi & Volker are off to the Steiermark in Austria...Kitty(photo) is over from the U.S.A. and Robert...well...he brought some wine. We decided it was time to meet up and enjoy good wines. I was asked to bring a white and a red...and along with my wife...we set of to find Volker grilling various sausages.
Now...you may think otherwise...but as far as I know know...neither America, Britain or any other country...do great sausages like the Germans. And if to prove a point...the three variations we were offered were very good indeed.

All the wines were covered up...and Robert's first offering I had to guess at. I got the first part right...Weissburgunder...thought maybe 2008...but was in Baden. It turned out to be from the Nahe and from the very top property in that area..

Dönnhoff Significa Weissburgunger
Stückfass 2009
Nane, Germany
With every new experience I can see that German growers are getting to grips with the grape. The 'fatness' of old seems to be disappearing presenting a more balanced style.
The bouquet shows a cocktail of yellow fruit. Developed well in the mouth...lots of finesse...a great example of the grape.
Points 16.5

The second wine was from my cellar...and I checked and saw I had last tasted it in June 2008..three years ago!. Not that the wine was going downhill...what hit me more was the time that had flown by!
The estate is located in the town of Bacharach in the Mittelrhein wine-growing region in Germany. It was founded in 1982 by Dr. Randolf Kauer and Martina Kauer. The vineyard area totals slightly more than three hectares, mostly on steep slopes, spread over the communes Bacharach (Kloster Fürstental, Wolfshöhle), Oberdiebach (Fürstenberg), Oberwesel (Oelsberg) and Urbar (Beulsberg).

Kauer Oberweseler Oelsberg
Riesling Spätlese trocken 2007
Mittelrhein, Germany
Aromas of apricots and juicy apples...lazy, hazy citrus fruits...minerals and some intensity...smells like a winner. More apricots on the palate, some peach. Herbs and a gentle sweetness tie this one up..and the 13% alcohol you just never notice. I wrote back then 'A teenager without spots that will develope into a tasty young lady!'...I was right!
Points 17.5

On to three reds...the first up was not easy...the colour was dark...but seemed to be Pinot Noir. As Robert said...always trust your first guess...and I was thinking U.S.A. but was off down other roads before it was revealed.
A bottle from the States...brought over by Kitty.
Domaine Serene
Pinot Noir
Evenstade Reserve 2005
Oregon, U.S.A.
As I mentioned...the colour was dark...black cherry aroma and toasty oak..quite full on the palate...with blackcurrant and raspberry to the fore...very good.
Points 17.25

My red wine was not happy to follow the Serene.....
Meyer-Näkel 'S' 2004
Ahr, Germany
Completely different to the above..and having drank it a few times...I know it shows better but seemed light compared to the Serene. Still...it was delightfully well-balanced with soft sweet fruit...and a slight trace of age.
Points 16.75....

Herman Story
On The Road Grenache 2008
California, U.S.A.
Robert had brought this...and Volker & I had no idea.....
Dark colour...bacon and smoke...velvety...ripe berries...good acidity...which was needed...it has 16% Alcohol as we found out when the covers came off...liquorice and cocoa...we really should have guessed Grenache...but we didn't.
Points 17

The Kauer white leads me into the next report very well.
Bacharach is in the Mittelrhein area...and as you leave the Autobahn between Bingen and Koblenz and drive downhill through the woods...then you reach this picturesque town.
Take the ferry across the Rhine on a sunny day...something I never tire of....then you on the Rheingau side...and will reach Rüdesheim...where you can take photos of Japanese tourists taking photos of this much visited town. Carry on for a few miles or kilometers and you reach Wiesbaden. The city was not touched with destruction in the war...so the beautiful old buildings still stand...and even though they say there is a financial crisis...drive along the Wilhelmstrasse of an evening and the parked vehicles will be full of Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, Audi and other elite cars. Our reason for a visit was to get the family together...and my wife & I love GOOD Asian food. All too often though...the oil is overdone...and there are 'added' ingredients....but a year ago our daughter (who lives there) recommended a Thai Restaurant...Erawan. Every visit has been a pleasure...but I usually end up driving so can't drink too much. This time I was being driven...so took 2 bottles of red along. My daughter says that the owner hardly ever visits tables...but whenever I had been there...I had always asked for a good white...and it seems to have got his interest.
The wine list is a 'catastrophe'...it hasn't changed for years...the vintages are 2001, 2002, 2003...none of which they still have...and on our first visit when I inquired about a Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2001...I was told they had one but from a younger vintage. Needless to say I ended up behind the bar checking the bottles of white they had in the fridge or the reds which the owner brought up from the cellar. This visit I asked for a Rully 2007...which was adequate...but not worth taking notes. The food was excellent again...although a long break between starters and main course meant that by the time we had finished...the restaurant was empty. The owner had asked what reds we were drinking...and I sent a glass for him to try...which brought him happily to our table to join in the banter (there is always laughter when our family are out together).
The two reds were last bottles from the cellar...the Michel had cost € 11,-- and the Johner € 17,-- and with a Thai curry these wines make great marriages

Michel Spätburgurgunder
Alte Reben 2007
Baden, Germany
An aroma of strawberry and sour cherries...a really attractive palate...with a soft...slightly sweet fruit without being overdone...the tannins just hovering...and a trace of acidity means this is delicious now...but could hold for 5 years.
Points 16.5

Weingut Karl Johner
Spätburgunder trocken 2007
Baden, Germany
Screw cap...instant opening...instant pleasure...just a delicious aromatic smell of sweet cherry fruit...a touch of 'aged' smokiness...and some extra herbaceous aromas...along with the well-used oak. There is a lively acidity that drags the fruit around the palate.
Points 17

Lamb without Wine

2011-06-20T08:43:00.012+02:00

One of my favourite foods....lamb carré...and it looks good before and after.
The wines I chose...what can I say?....was it a full moon?...or a change in the weather?...whatever...they did not please.

Bodegas Muga Rioja
Reserva 2004
Rioja, Spain
Dark purple in colour...blackberry on the nose...and onto the palate, smoky meats, leather & tobacco...medium tannins...2004 is a very fine vintage in Spain....but this seems brawny...not a trace of charm.
Points 16

Bodegas Muga Rioja Gran Reserva
Prado Enea 2001, Rioja, Spain
In desperation after the Muga...I opened this...and expected a creamy vanilla old style Rioja smell...but this seemed dry and plain...even left overnight it gained no plus points. Has the oak drained it of it's fruit? Very strange....I'll blame it on the moon.
Points 15

Cru Beaujolais 2

2011-06-17T17:24:00.014+02:00

Repetition can be boring! Just think...if I had to watch a Britney Spears or Lady Gaga concert every night...how bored I would be. With tongue in cheek...ONE concert would put me to sleep .
These concerts would keep me awake: James Carr Sam Moore & David Ruffin.
Now....that is music!
Repetition can be boring if you only drink the same wine...I have never understood people who buy cases of their 'favourite' white and drink it until the next vintage. How boring is that!
Repetition in the case of this post...happened without planning. The previous post had me drinking a Grüner Veltliner 2009 from Wachau, Austria over a few day....and is repeated here....followed by a Cru Beaujolais 2009.
Repetition it was...with part two improving on part one. The post is titled Cru Beaujolais but the star was a Grüner Veltliner!!!

Leo Alzinger
Grüner Veltliner Reserve 2009
Wachau, Austria
Nobody gets more minerality into his wines than Leo Alzinger. Super nose...pears...touch of Botrytis...14.5% Alcohol which is swept under the carpet...tried this over 4 days!!! and it did not stop giving enormous pleasure. Liquid broken glass on day one...a crystallized diamond...slick elegant palate...perfect balance...and a large glass on day four had me thinking....if you don't buy any other GV 2009....make sure you get this one.
Points 18

Dom des Terres Dorées Morgon 2009
Beajolais, France
This domaine is located in Charnay, a village just north of Lyons in Southern Beaujolais. Jean-Paul Brun is the owner and winemaker at this 40-acre family estate. The intent is to make old style Beaujolais using traditional techniques and the use of the grapes indigenous yeasts.
Dark colour...with dark cherry throughout...very forward but this disguises the fact that it will develope well. Scented nose...lots of ripeness...earthy...the tannins are hidden...a touch more to it than the Fleurie...but we are splitting hairs here.
Points 16.75

Cru Beaujolais

2011-06-13T14:27:00.010+02:00

Not a bad opener before trying the Beaujolais!
Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner
Smaragd Hochrain 2009
Wachau, Austria
This was very good on day 1...although not given much air. Until day 3 it spent lounging in the fridge and it met me with intense aromatic honey and peaches....it had held them back initially.
Thankfully the taste is clean and fresh...cool minerals...creamy texture...and as the 3 day improvement usually means...plenty of time to improve in bottle.
Points 17.25

Who remembers those balmy days...or should it be barmy days...when people used to queue in November for Beaujolais Nouveau? Did we really enjoy it? Only in the VERY best years did it seem worthwhile.
Maybe 2009 would have been one of those years.

Jean-Paul Brun
Terres Dorees Fleurie 2009
Beaujolais, France
Every few years I try a top Cru Beaujolais...then leave them a while. What made me decide to try again? Well...something red to drink on a summer evening?...maybe...and also fellow Blogger Alex had mentioned he had recently tried one from the vintage 2009 which had impressed.
Jean Paul Brun seemed a good way to start so I bought a bottle of his Morgon and the one tried here.
Deep ruby...even a touch black...so you know you are not going to get the normal stuff here. Intense violets and roasted meats hit the nose...tart cherries...earthy tannins...good grip...and next day it was even better...pure and clean...no Gamey grapiness here...this veers more to big brother Pinot.
Points 16.5
PS....
and very good value at
€ 12.50....
mind you....
they saved some money on the label!

Hysteria in South Styria

2011-06-11T09:32:00.016+02:00

Maybe not that dramatic...but headlines sell papers.
It is certainly worth getting excited about...the Südsteiermark (South Styria) is making some excellent wines with the Sauvignon Blanc grape. If you are looking for the tart, green style...look away now...cos you ain't gonna find it in SS.
My first experience of Sauvignon Blanc...like many back then in the 70's...was Sancerre. Then New Zealand burst onto the scene and it became very 'in'. Many were green and too tarty for me....something I don't like in my wine (and never had liked in my choice of women!...meaning those before I married...phew...good job I added that or my wife would hit me with the frying pan!). Vie de Romans Piere 2004 from Italy was memorable...and the aforementioned Sancerre...François Cotat's wines are very special. Recently a couple of German versions have impressed...and many properties , especially in the Pfalz, are producing good SB. But...the place to get the best right now...is Austria. Prove it you say! Read on...

Jaunegg Muri Sauvignon Blanc 2007
South Styria, Austria
Large oak barrels...I was getting excited about this one...yellow-green colour...An explosion of ripe gooseberry and lychees really make you sit up...elegant, juicy...cassis even...and very fine acidity....got me thinking I should purchase this.
Didn't enjoy being left overnight...not it's fault. Buy it maybe...and share it with someone...or drink a whole bottle at once and dream of the fairies!
Points 17.25

Sattlerhof Sauvignon Blanc
Kranachberg 2007
South Styria, Austria
Top property...Willi Sattler in the saddle (I like that description)...
Glass Stopper...so...Cork Screw back in the drawer...
Barrique...This is top cinema...a slick slider...a smooth operator. A nose that appealed and evolved over 2 days....oily stones....mango...and gooseberry...but if you are looking for the razor sharp kind...please leave the room now.
You won't find them in the 'Steiermark'...and that's why I am here. This has low residual sugar levels...it is a middle-weight boxer with a light-weight's dancing feet. 'Don't dare call me fat' it says....and then defies your criticism by bouncing over the palate...great feel in the mouth...and if you only gave me one word to describe it...'glossy'.
Points 17.5 -17.75...don't nail me down....cos this will get even better.
PS...I also bought the 'Private 2007' which is supposed to be even better that this wine!

Green Grows The Garden & Veltliner

2011-06-04T12:14:00.029+02:00

I hate the cold....and, even though I am English, I hate rain. I hate snow (in Germany...we have to daily clear away any that lies outside our house)... and I hate bad wines. OK...now...what do I love. The warmth of summer, sitting in the garden with the flowers in full bloom, sipping on a glass of wine as the last rays caress the body (very exotic I know...but it really is the best part of a hot day).

My mixed case of Austrian whites is disappearing. Grüner Veltliner notes can sometimes sound so similar...but trying various properties over a period of days...watching them develop with airing, smelling and feeling the individuality of the grower....yes...I love it!

Holzapfel Achleiten Grüner Veltliner 2009
Wachau, Austria
Ripe yellow apple smell...this seems light & fluffy...and there is a 'spritz' feel to it...developed the usual pepper...
Points 16

Nigl Grüner Veltliner Reserve 2009
Kremstal, Austria
Flowery nose...this reminded me of a Condrieu...sweet apples flavour...and some lemon acidity...super minerals...ripe fruit...complex...exotic fruit and good finish.
Points 17

Cheeses were...Brie, Swiss Mountain(forget to ask), Brillat Savarin and one of those that a cheese lover would frown on.

Salomon Undhof Grüner Veltliner Lindberg Reserve 2009
Kremstal, Austria
Honeyed melons, yellow apple aroma, tobacco, white pepper palate, spices...although the palate slightly contradicts the bouquet...minerals and vibrant acidity...two days later...the palate catches up...
Points 16.75

Tegernseerhof Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Höhereck 2009
Wachau, Austria
Best of the four...and another I could compare to a fine Condrieu....my style of GV...opulent...pear and apple aromas...a layer of fruit treats the palate...could not stop drinking this...bottle almost empty....sun gone down...tomorrow soccer...love that as well...life is hard sometimes...but you get rewards like this...anyone listening?
Points 17.25

Syrah, Soccer & Shikarpur

2011-06-03T11:24:00.019+02:00

Last Saturday I went to a Syrah tasting...arranged by fellow Blogger Alex.
As I mentioned...in a previous post...Sunday morning is holy...not church-wise....but soccer-wise. I play football...and at my age...need to have a gentle evening beforehand in order to keep up with the 30-40 year olds!
Alex had said we would be around 9 people with 11-12 wines. I had given him my contribution a few days before...and early Saturday evening set off by taxi to his place. Nearly all our taxi drivers are from Pakistan....and to complete this story up-front...I had to guide him there...and, on the return journey...help him out of a dead end back on the the road. Alex....if you lived in Shikarpur...it would have been easier for one of us in that taxi!
On arriving...I was met by Alex and his parents...and chatted until the other 6 arrived. I took a photo of the 12 !!! wines. I might just make that lot I thought....but a couple of the new arrivals brought bottles...so the starting total was 15 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
A friendly bunch...we started with the first 4...one of which was from India...not bad at all...and one from Australia. The only 'clean' comment I will make about this winemaker is...What is the ****** point of having a wine with 17% Alcohol????. This 'Boxer' had lead in it's gloves!!!
A short break while we ate Alex's prepared meal...then on to the next four, one of which was my bottle Cayuse...which showed well. Phew....made it to 8....and had made some sort of notes....but had by then told Alex that his blog would have to report extensively on the tasting. Wines 9-12 were tasted (I think) then I was outta there. My palate was crying out for help. Alex is a lot younger and I am...and seemed to have it all under control. Check out his blog...there were wines 13 - 15 but they never passed my lips.
At football next morning...it took me 20 minutes to run off the alcohol...but then somehow played a decent game.

Crowd Pleaser

2011-06-03T09:00:00.006+02:00

Following the post about Prosecco...I guess I could add this style of wine. I'm sure there is an Argentinian wine that doesn't hit you with both fists...but I am yet to taste it. I bought this from a supermarket in England....seeing the Decanter award label.
Bodega Norton Privada 2006
Mendoza, Argentina
This won a trophy at last year's Decanter Wine Awards...and I can see why. Can I say before we go on...this is not for me. Can I also say...it is not bad...it's just not my style...it is just a 'one glass wine' for me...that can win prizes...but for someone who likes to drink maybe two-thirds of a bottle some evenings...it is just TOO much of what it is!

Now we have cleared that up...on to the notes.
Malbec, Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep garnet red...black cherry, dark spicy fruit...smooth, soft mid-palate...sweet, savoury...I know...it all sounds fine...but someone wrote...a little tedious...and this is how I find this type of wine...I gave the half of what was left to my secretary...she agreed...A one glass wine!. A 'crowd pleaser'...but maybe I don't belong to the crowd!
Points 16

Prosecco Substitute

2011-06-02T16:29:00.022+02:00

As the summer evenings are with us...there are magazines full of Prosecco tastings and the best Rosé wines. Er...no...not for me! OK...there are cheaper wines than what I drank below...but if you get at least double the pleasure...why opt for something that has never really turned me on.
What is Morillon you may ask?...well...the Austrians have their own language at times...and in the South Styria...where they make great Sauvignon Blanc by the way...they call Chardonnay 'Morillon'
Manfred Tement is a top property here...so I decided to try two of his examples.

Manfred Tement Sulz Morillon 2008
South Styria, Austria
Glass-stopper...Medium yellow green...stoned fruit, green apples, nose-watering smells...perfect for a hot summer evening...but it doesn't end there....soft toffee flavour which carried the two days in bottle with ease. The intense minerals just bounced back every time you asked for them...lively acidity...a real living wine. A lovely wine with which to watch the sun go down....
Points 16.5

Prosecco...no chance. Oh yes...around € 20,--...but Prosecco...still no chance.

Tement's top wine...and to be fair...not exactly a wine for daily drinking....unless you win the lottery. At € 35,-- this is serious.
Manfred Tement Zieregg Morillon 2007
South Styria, Austria
To quote 'The part of the Zieregg site on which Morillon is grown varies in composition from shell limestone to limestone marl, a soil type that has even greater potential for retaining heat, and which is therefore particularly suitable for the production of a fine Burgundy-style wine. Longish maturation in small new oak barrels is also necessary, though, in order to bring out the full complexity of the vineyard and grape variety once the wine is in bottle'

Natural Cork...A step up from the Sulz...there is an instant soft kiss of oak...this broadens showing tobacco and nuttiness. The positive is...it remains faithful to the style of Tement...showing elegance, fine balance...even a shot of citrus...
and a constantly changing wine over two days.
Points 17

The New Ambiente

2011-05-26T12:27:00.040+02:00

The Ambiente in Bauscheim has moved....Riccardo Re and Pedro Fernandes have taken over the renovated Alte Oberförsterei in Kelsterbach.
There is the Gourmet Restaurant in the Wintergarten, the Trattoria and a Summer Terrace.
I was invited to the opening 6 weeks ago...and finally had the chance to eat there. Alex, who is organizing the Syrah tasting in a few days time, contacted me and we decided to meet up for dinner.
The two wines I delivered the day before. Alex likes Riesling...and you all know what turns me on!
I had reserved a table in the Wintergarten...but it was such a lovely evening that we ate outside.

Emrich-Schönleber
Monzinger Halenberg,
Riesling Spätlese, 2006
Nahe, Germany

This had some petroleum on the nose...I love it...beautifully balanced...the delicate fruit making this perfect at the moment.
Points 17.5

HE Dausch 'the gurus'
Pinot Noir 2006
Pfalz, Germany
Medium colour...with an orange rim...looks older than it is...very French nose...touch of smoke...the palate shows compact fruit...classy...lovely balance...
Points 17.5

Good to meet fellow blogger Alex.
He seemed happy as well with all that was on offer.

Syrah Blind Tasting

2011-05-23T18:21:00.008+02:00

I have been invited to a tasting...organized by fellow wine-blogger Alex....this Saturday.
Am I going?....three reasons that would 'maybe' stop me
1. No PINOT NOIR!...it is a blind Syrah tasting....but I'll risk it!
2. I play soccer on Sunday mornings...then have my radio show later...so Saturday evening is usually a gentle one...so if I get complaints about my performance on the field...I will blame Alex....but..still gonna risk it!
3. This Saturday is the final of the Champions League (Soccer for you lot over the water)...and essential for all lovers of the round ball game....
BUT...I'll still risk it!
I love wine as much as soccer.

Joking aside...I am looking forward to the tasting.

My choice of bottle is already covered up...I had a few others in mind...but decanting would maybe have been necessary and therefore would not lend itself to a blind tasting.

Wess versus Moser

2011-05-21T14:27:00.016+02:00

Delving into the array of Austrian whites received recently...and choosing the 'simpler' bottles first.
The Wess was priced at € 19,-- and the Sepp Moser at € 16,-- although checking the invoice I saw that the Merchant had not charged for this bottle. A nice touch!
Both tried over 3 days...the Wess on day 1, then the Moser, and on day three a re-try to see how they had developed.

Rainer Wess
Grüner Veltliner Pfaffenberg 2009
Wachau, Austria
To quote "Some of the grapes come from plantings located in Kremstal (even though they are situated right next to Loibenberg) and the rest are from Wachau vineyards that almost reach the Danube (where Loibenberg is about 300 m from the river). The soils are mostly sandy clay with underlying primary gneiss. The warm southeast facing provides enough fruit to make it accessible, but Pfaffenberg's steeply terraced rocky plantings dominate the wine."

Relaxed smell...soft pears...really very smooth, soft & oily...good concentration and ready now...and only with plenty of airing do you get any minerals...not much pepper is this one. On day three I tried it after the Moser...and it seemed flat compared.
Points 16

Sepp Moser
Grüner Veltliner Breiter Rain 2009
Kremstal, Austria
To quote "The Sepp Moser Estate was founded by the famous Austrian wine producing pioneer, Lenz Moser. Lenz Moser's son, Sepp Moser, began operating under his own name in 1987 and handed over the direction of this family-owned estate to his own son Nikolaus in the year 2000. The Sepp Moser Estate comprises of 50 acres of vineyards in two prominent wine regions; Kremstal (22 ha) and Neusiedlersee (28 ha). The name ”Breiter Rain” means broad (Breiter) uncultivated piece of land (rain, old german word) and is one of the best sites of the Kremstal region!"

A bouncy nose...herby citrus, sour apples (better than it sounds)...a constant interest...delicious palate...honeyed, waxy fruit...lively acidity...good finish...and on day 3 was still hitting the spots...never boring...and at the price (oh..I forgot..I got it free)
Points 16.5

Restaurant Einhauser

2011-05-19T14:53:00.023+02:00

You reach a certain age...and the children have no idea what to give you for a Birthday present...so I now receive an invite to a restaurant. The one chosen by our eldest is somewhere we have been meaning to visit but something has always meant us cancelling our plans. Birthday was in March but it was late April and we finally booked a table at Einhauser in Wiesbaden. Bianca, our daughter, and her husband Jochen, had been there a few times but... as I always do...I checked for reports, photos, anything to be informed. Nothing! Did it exist? It does now...and this is probably the first review.

Friday evening...and the four of us arrived...it is situated in one of the side streets...in an area full of eating houses. Bianca had ordered her favourite table by the window...a good choice...as some tables are very close to each other. The restaurant itself...is very 'homely'...and has a busy feel to it. Seating about 30...it is recommended to book in advance.
The menu is hand written...and there is a board with a few dishes of the day. As a starter we chose the selection of Tapas...two for four people was just perfect....and anyone who knows us...we like to share when we eat. I still was not sure what the wine-list would be like...and when asked...was told it was at the back of the menu. This can mean a list of wines without vintages and growers usually....but thankfully...what was there...was an interesting choice. Mostly Italian...which I would have tried....BUT...and here we have to go back to our trip to the Pfalz last October. At lunch the Sommelier asked where we were going next on our visit to vineyards. We told him Knipser in Laumersheim...and he suggested a visit to Zelt which was very close. To cut a long story short...we visited Knipser...but it was so busy...we just didn't make it to Mario Zelt's Weingut. Our loss I think.
So...back to the wine-list...and we needed a white for the Tapas. What do I see? Zelt Cuvée 'S 2009..and a bottle was duly ordered. Now...if they had the white...could it be they would have a red?. I flipped over a couple of pages of Italia and... there it was...Zelt's Grosskarlbacher Burgweg Spätburgunder 2008. Perfect.

The starters were delicious...very imaginative. The white...
Zelt Cuvée 'S 2009 Pfalz, Germany
This Cuvée is fully developed in stainless steel tanks...Weißburgunder & Chardonnay is the mix. Decent acidity so no flabbiness...a creamy texture...and a good finish.
Points 15

The main courses were good....I had Lamb...no photos...I was concentrating on the bottle or red.

Zelt Großkarlbacher Burgweg
Spätburgunder 2008
Pfalz, Germany
Smells good, tastes good...and by golly!...it does you good. An old advertising slogan from years ago...but so appropriate...and a perfect wine to go with all the foods. Cherry red...berry fruit aroma...rounded...no edges...spicy...soft earth on the palate...forest berries...and a delicious finish. We are not talking about a BIG wine here...just a perfect moment with a wine that promises all you could expect.
Points 16.75
In the restaurant priced at € 34,--...very fair...about twice what it costs at the property. However...no longer available...and no merchant has it...the property informs that the 2009 will be on offer from July this year. I can only recommend that you buy some. I will.
I also recommend a visit to Einhauser...good, honest food... a pleasant atmosphere...no pretensions...a good time was enjoyed by all.

Notes 2

2011-05-19T08:40:00.021+02:00

Claus Schneider Weiler Schlipf
Spätburgunder trocken *** CS 2007
Baden, Germany
This is starting to settle down...the oak is singing in the background thankfully...and the cherry fruit is taking over the lead... very savoury....earthy & minerals...3 bottles left....
Points 17.25

Weingut Huber Hecklinger Schlossberg Spätburgunder 'R' 2007
Baden, Germany
I should have been on holiday at the moment...but as previously posted...my wife had an operation and a tour of Baden would not have been possible. Occassionally I think about our little heaven in Waldulm and a touch of sadness appears....we have re-booked for August though...but I decided to open a wine that Rebstock have on their list. I enjoyed it so much on a previous visit that I drove to the property to buy 3 bottles...which turned into 6...strike while the iron is hot...or maybe don't regret not buying more...whatever...half a dozen were put into my cellar. One has gone...and to compensate my vacation loss...another was to be opened on a Monday evening. Sweetish nose...with a juicy zip...traces of marzipan...a furry tannin covers the dark cherry fruit. Having had the pleasure of drinking a few Huber top wines...this is really very forward and drinkable...but methinks that disguises the fact that it will get better. It spends 18 months in new oak...but this is so well balanced...with minerals bouncing off the fruit...and a fine length of flavour. A perfect House Wine for Monday evenings...if I win the Lottery. Stick with this wine if you have it...I know my Hubers!
Points 17.75

Roc d'Anglade 'Clos de La Belle' 2004
Vin de pays du Gard, Languedoc
I last tried this 3 years ago and bought a couple of bottles. It had REALLY impressed and showed it would develop more. Well..that WOW nose is a little less WOW...still Eucalyptus and minty...but reserved. A cool aroma nowadays...and the palate has also mellowed. Still reminds one of the Languedoc wild countryside...and there is a lively acidity...black olives...but I have to admit...the youthful version remains in the memory. Let's see how it develops.
Points 17

Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner
Smaragd Honivogl 2009
Wachau, Austria
An exotic bundle of fruit...Grapefruit, Orange....smokey tobacco....oriental spices. The honeyed fruit covers the lips...but hey...this is still young...a few years in the cellar will help. A beautiful balance to this wine...exotic has to be repeated...very ripe fruit...and intense minerals.
Points 17.5
but much more to come....