Friday, March 29, 2013

Missing Meursault

Why don't I drink more Meursault? I used to in the 70's and 80's...it was my favourite white. It has never been cheap and wasn't back then. Coche-Dury was a big favourite and seemed to be around and easily available. Restaurants had Meursault on their lists. Maybe I don't visit those restaurants in France anymore...and maybe most Wine Merchants don't buy them nowadays. It is a mystery.


Bernard Boisson-Vadot
Meursault Les Grands Charrons 2010
Burgundy, France

Bernard Boisson looks like a French Vigneron. There is no way you would place him anywhere else in the vinious world.
Opened this a few hours in advance as it is really too young to open these wines. BUT...the memories of days gone by forced me to try this.
Classic aroma...so hard to describe but easy to remember. It is the Burgundy terroir and all the compoments that make top wines in France. Ripe pears...nutty....yes...that is what gets me...nuts...with a thrilling tight stony minerality (as I said...too young...), complex palate...the tongue searches amongst the necessary acidity for honey, toasty hazelnuts, peaches and pears...elegance is there of course...and without wanting to insult anybody...this is a wine for wine lovers with some experience. Youngsters would push the glass to one side...looking for an instant hit. This hits you from all sides...or rather slaps you gently...would be a better description. Undermarking it now...I can see this pleasing tremendously in 3-4 years.
Points 17.5








Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Spring Is In The Air

It's not yet spring...but these two summer wines brought a spring to MY step!

Paul Achs Pannobile Weiss 2010
Burgenland, Austria
Paul Achs is one of only 9 properties in Austria that are allowed to use the Pannobile name. The Chardonnay grape comes from the 'Großlage' Heideboden.
Medium yellow, interesting vanilla whiff...very enticing use of wood...quite complex flavour...and a creamy texture. This has charm.
Points 17

Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Ries Lamm Reserve 2011
Kamptal, Austria
Lots going on in the glass...and it will show itself over the next few years. That's not say it has nothing going for itself now. Roasted almonds and melons popped out of the glass...and next day a variety of fruits.
Ripe feel to it all...and a thrilling acidiy...tobacco...elegant.
Points 17.5

Sunday, March 10, 2013

Vinious Payment

Back from holiday I found that my assistant had caught a virus...it seems half of Germany has it...so straight back into the business with hardly any time to breath.I needed rewarding to keep me above water. The vinious reward is always readily accepted.Sparse notes for most of the wines tasted...but then again...straight to the point is sometimes better than driving round the houses!!!




Malat Grüne Veltliner Das Beste Reserve 2010
Kremstal, Austria

Drank over three days...giving it a chance to show itself...top to bottom.
Tobacco traces....quite full on the palate...but fine acidity structure keeps it lively...yellow apples...will buy another bottle of this.
Points 17.5
While drinking this on day one...I was watching the German version of 'Come Dine With Me' and an Austrian contestant was adding a Malat red to a dish he was cooking...what a coincidence!




Erwin Sabathi Chardonnay Merveilleux 2010
South Styria, Austria

Traces of white pepper...and smokey tones...delicate, layed-back with a creamy length.
Points 17




Buchegger Grüner Veltliner Reserve 2011
Kremstal, Austria

Well-priced at € 20,-- and offers a lot for the money. It is made from a selection of the oldest vines. Full...with loads of baby fat...but remarkably drinkable now.
Points 17.25




In between all the work...I popped off to our Bistro.
Fresh Octopus Grilled...with plenty of herbs and spices followed by Wild Boar Medallions and Ravioli. As the chef is Moroccan you know that there is plenty to deal with regarding spices in most dishes...which I find adapts very well to mature Pinot Noir.






A bottle of a 2007 lounging in my cellar.
Meßmer Schlossgarten Spätburgunder 2007
Pfalz, Germany

The vintage is showing well now...lost it's 'vintage' fat and shows a delicate soft earthiness...with the gentle cherry fruit and a lingering finish. It coped admirably with both courses and earned it's

Points 17.5


Back to Austria...which is no pain for me.


Hirsch Grüner Veltliner Ried Lamm 2008
Kamptal, Austria
This was still available...but now is gone...did I buy the last bottle?
Tobacco again...fresh desert island fruits...zipped up with tasty minerals and a creamy finish.
Points 17.25



Heard quite a bit about the next property...but only the 2007 to be found...




Panta Rhei Chardonnay 2007
Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, Austria

There is also some Morillon in the mix..oak to the fore...nutty...but for my liking a touch too much age.
Points 16.75




Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2010
Wachau, Austria

Honey...ripe apples...and surprisingly light for a Knoll...they do tend to be an acquired taste...and with the zippy acidity this is very attractive now
Points 17.25



BOOK-ENDS...a Sherry and a Port....we drink too little we are told:


The La Gitana Manzanilla I leave open in the fridge for at least a week before drinking it. Strange...as the style says you should drink it fresh. Maybe that is the case in Sanlucar near Jerez....happy memories...tapas and Manzanilla...but maybe the versions I had been drinking had been opened a few days.


Vintage Port is a 'Special Occasion' wine...but the Portuguese drink plenty of Tawny Port...this Warre 10 Year old Tawny won a prize at the Decanter Wine Awards...and is soft and easy...but plenty of backbone to cope with any cheeses you might want to try.



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