Saturday, October 13, 2012

A Good Week's Drinking

A week's drinking...and some real delights.
Tried over a couple of days...two very different styles of GV from two areas in Austria
First up...
Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner
Rosenberg 2009
Wagram, Austria

They call Bernhard Ott 'Mr Grüner Veltliner'...so I purchased a mixed bunch of his wines...mainly 2010 & 2011.
A single bottle of the 2009 vintage seemed the best choice though to drink at the moment.
The vines of the Rosenberg vineyard are around 50 years old.
Deepish yellow when you compare to other examples...white pepper...spices...tropical fruit. The mouth feel is fairly weighty...which increased with the second glass.
An Auslese in style...residual sugar ...so I left it for 48 hours...and it seemed to have calmed down a touch. Very glossy though and would have faired better...if the Alzinger hadn't shown more minerality.
Points 17



Alzinger Grüner Veltliner Reserve 2011
Wachau, Austria

Opened the day after the Ott...and this had a tobacco smokey smell...delightful aroma of pears with airing...considering this is young it was very approachable. That is the plus with these GV's...they are good young...but will benefit with a few years aging. The rest of the bottle was then compared the next day with the Ott wine...and showed great minerality...a touch of sweetness...but this will disappear with a year's aging.  Perfect balance almost...and was the winner of the two wines
Points 17.5



and yet a third version...this time Kamptal

Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner
Ried Lamm Reserve 2011
Kamptal, Austria

If I remember correctly...the first GV I ever tasted was from this property.
Green-yellow in colour...tobacco nose...apple fruit...honey notes...and a full palate...but with a thrilling dose of minerals...leaving you with a slim wine...a contradiction to all that went before.
Points 17.25



Markus Molitor, Brauneberger Klostergarten
Spätburgunder ** trocken, 2004
Mosel, Germany

A real find...almost missed it. Still available at € 35,-- (PS...3 days later I hear that I had the last 2 bottles)
You would think it risky maybe...2004...8 years for a Mosel red...but you would be wrong...and delighted to drink this.
The Mosel has very few properties who seriously deal in Pinot Noir. The top wine from Molitor is just beautiful...and the wines are very Burgundian in style...both the vines and the large bottles are from France.
Delicate gentle vanilla...this does not hit you full-faced...it just pokes you in the cheek...then rubs your eyes...then tickles your nose. You get my drift...gently does it...and I love the whole. You can't buy this smell...well...not often enough.
The palate gives you smooth velvet...and it still has some tannins in there keeping it lively. A wine for Mozart...not Beethoven. A wine for Soul Lovers...not Heavy Metal Freaks.
17.5...but I am being mean...just forget about marks here...and....it held up great overnight...so it should age for a few years more. I need to check if there are more available.












Saturday, October 06, 2012

A Trio Plus One

A Trio of Austrian whites...three different grapes...and a nice aged red from Germany.

Weingut Alphart Rotgipler Rodauner
Top Selektion 2010
Thermenregion, Austria

Yellow fruits...honey melons...quite full...even an up-front sweetness...an exotic Austrian with broad texture...I would have liked more minerals...
Points 16.5


Polz Sauvignon Blanc Hochgrassnitzberg Reserve
Große STK Lage 2007
South Styria, Austria

Always trying to be original with tasting notes...this was easy. Wham! Bam! Kapow!...like a super-hero cartoon.
An aroma full of spiky grapefruit....extreme peaches...lovely balance...spicy oak...smooth as silk. Wham! Bam! Thank You Mam!
Points 17.75



Tegernseerhof Riesling Smaragd
Steinertal 2009
Wachau, Austria

Peaches and petroleum...blood oranges...stone fruits...has a sprightly feel...but will age beautifully
Points 17.5



Meyer-Näkel Spätburgunder 2005
Ahr, Germany

Perfect now...that slightly mouldy smoke...more attractive than it sounds...taste of caramel...laying back and relaxing with it's age...
Points 17.25





Gemischter Satz

Roughly translated, Gemischter Satz means "mixed matter" which describes the many grapes that are blended together to create these wines. To qualify as a Gemischter Satz, the grapes must be grown in the same vineyard and produced together. This type of “Field Blend” production style was common in Austria after the First World War. The economy was down and farmers needed to ensure that they would make a profit despite any harsh weather conditions. They decided to plant a variety of different grapes in a single vineyard, and blend the grapes together to make the highest quality of wine. Having a diverse grape portfolio helped the farmers to prevent risk during poor harvests. Gemischter Satz has become a very popular wine, and its unique profile and history is still celebrated today.
It could lead you to believe it is a way to use up the rest of a harvest...but that would be far from the case here.


Wieninger Gemischter Salz
Alte Reben Rosengartl 2011
Vienna, Austria

The grapes used here are taken from the prime area in the center of the Nußberg. Opened and sipped...and I gazed a the label...I like this old fashioned style. The sip reminds me of something...not that we should ever have to want to compare these wonderful whites from Austria...they stand alone... and while I am thinking...I had a good sniff....pears and some orange peel...leads into a smokey flavour...and that was it for day one...OK...but missing something...not sure yet what it reminded me of. As I repeat often...the young whites from Austria enjoy a night in my fridge...rarely have I be left wishing I had emptied a bottle early. Day 2...and that glossy feel had been joined by fine minerals...taking the flavour a step higher...the Restsüße less dominant...and the wine was juicy and uplifting. Got it...at this moment...it reminded me of a Condrieu...stick with it Barry...your memory is still good. A backdrop of acidity and you could leave this a few years...will only get better.
Points 17.25...and well priced at € 22,--



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