Friday, May 28, 2010

Parker Pointed Grüner Veltliner

Ebaying again....and maybe GV's are still unknown among the 'community'..three bottles for € 27,--...can't complein eh .
I bid for this on the back of hearing Robert Parker (or whoever tasted in his name) gave it 9
4.

Normally I wouldn't be interested in the marking...but was inquisitive to know what the lover of heavier styles would think of this grape.




Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner Federspiel im Weingebirge 2007
Wachau, Austria
S
traw yellow...flowery...elegant...needed coaxing...this doesn't leap out of the glass....there is some thirst quenching acidity...and the fruit just lies easily on the palate...this is certainly no blockbuster....white pepper....with a spicy 'spritzig' finish.
94 Points...is too high...certainly at the moment...but these GV's develop beautifully..so the other 2 bottles will be put away for a while.
Points 16.5

Monday, May 24, 2010

Return To The Rebstock

Another visit to our favourite place.
Why do we go back?
Well...same boss...Karl Hodapp and his wife Sandra Stark.
Same great team...Bettina, Claudi and the rest.
Same great food. Same great wine-list.
Need I go on?
It is an easy 2 hour drive to get there...and we are on holiday when we see the place!
Booking in advance is essential...but you can't plan the weather....but we never got wet.
As I sit here preparing this MASSIVE post...the sun is shining...grrrrr....and I am thinking..if only I had a laptop...then I could have done the report daily. My wife has only just got used to me taking photos of anything on the dinner table...the thought of me typing between courses would have driven her nuts....I would have been given salted food or watered wine....so...it is pen & paper at the dinner table...

Wednesday 12 May 2010
We arrived early afternoon...unpacked...I obtained the wine-list.....(see photo)...and my wife checked out the food. The first thing I saw was some wonderful additions of Spätburgunder from the 2007 vintage. This meant I would not be repeat-drinking anything from the last visit. I decided there & then to try a 'newbie' every evening. The things I do for you readers...ah well... no pain, no gain!!!








Snail soup....a selection of tasters...'Angelschellfisch'...and the Duck

Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein
Oberrotweiler Eichberg
Spätburgunder trocken Barrique 2007

Baden, Germany
Whew!!!!...just imagine telling a friend what you drank last night.....easy for me.....but non-German speakers would probably say 'A Red from Germany'.
Well...it is worth more effort than that. The property is making big strides...and the whole range is excellent. This is the first SB I have had from this grower......and is a delicious delicate wine...strawberry and some caramel from the smell...the young 'barrique' just hovering....earthy...dry cherry on the palate...'spritely' fruit...soft, slightly burnt touch....
Points 17.5 - 17.75

Thursday 13 May 2010
It rained...well...drizzled...most of the day...but that was OK.....we lazed.....







Warm 'Foie Gras' on Pasta filled with Rhubarb.....Lamb...and the Quail.

Weingut Bercher Burkheimer Feuerberg
Spätburgunder 'Großes Gewächs' 2007
Baden, Germany
I had chosen the Molitor from the Mosel...but it had not arrived...so decided on Bercher. Some styles please at once....others need time. A 2003 a few years ago left me a little disappointed...and this needs time to convince me it can be a favourite property on my list. Dark sour cherry...and some new oak...the tannins are easy..then there is a touch of 'fire'(Feuerberg)...very appropriately named. A wine with potential....it just seems disjointed at the moment
Points 17.25



Friday 14 May 2010
A better day...weather-wise.....time to take in that air.....






Frothy Soup from Clover...Terrine of Green Asparagus with Pikeperch & Scallop...Radish Terrine with Fried Scallops and some very fine Kid(young goat)

Weingut Friedrich Becker
Pinot Noir trocken 2007

Pfalz, Germany
Karl Hodapp had a few additions...non-Baden wines. The Molitor I mentioned....a Franken Wine...
and two from this top property in the Pfalz. The 2007 Sankt Paul I have at home...and this Pinot Noir is like gold dust...and was voted the top new Germany red...EVER....97 Points!
I asked for a decant...and it helped...the raspberry aroma hitting you at once...like a liqueur...dark colour...then the dark cherry took over....but I still insist I caught a trace of raspberry. Classy...good tannic backbone...the Sankt Paul is a smoothy compared to this one...tobacco traces...beautifully balanced...vanilla...impressive. Points...well...from 100 I would give it 94 at the moment.
Points 18

Saturday 15 May 2010
Weather bright...we went for a stroll around Achern...then back for a light lunch and wait for two friends, Ingrid & Edgar, who were coming down for the evening. They arrived mid afternoon...a quick tour...then down to dinner. Edgar wanted a wine with at least 94 points he said....and I knew what we were gonna drink. A white beforehand would be needed...although the ladies are not drinkers....and I wanted to show him something he hadn't had. In September the Grüner Veltliner had impressed me...so...no hardship to have another bottle opened.















A 'greeting from the kitchen'...Aspic of Pfifferling in a clover coat...clear Beef Consommé...& Radish Terrine with Fried Scallops

Franz Hirtzberger Rotes Tor
Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2003
Wachau, Austria
Yellow gold...ripe fruit mature smell...a slight touch of petroleum...green pepper...stones..spicy minerals..Edgar said little until asked...but his eyes told me...I think he had more than half the bottle!!!
Points 17.5











Pikeperch & Scallops...Lamb....Quail...and the non-drinkers tried a selection of the desserts.

Weingut Berhard Huber Hecklinger Schlossberg
Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs 2007
Baden, Germany
The wine list only had the 2005 Schlossberg still available from my last visit.....the 2006 had sold out....but hey...we are talking about a VERY GOOD Vintage in 2007. Previous vintages have shown the Schlossberg to be closed when young...needing temptations to show it's best. Not so here...the wine was opened 2 hours in advance..no basket...no decant...just a decent hefty pour into large glasses.
Now...I know the previous wine was voted top...and it will probably surpass this...but...here & now....this is super. Light colour (who really cares) and again...raspberries...juicy ones at that...just a wonderful layer of fruit...loads of class and finesse...and with enough substance to hold for many years. What a delicious wine.
Points 18.25
PS.....The usual evening procedure is...I send a good glassful of the wine I am drinking into the kitchen. Obviously...while working...Herr Hodapp can't drink too much...but that glass he takes with him when the work is done. Unfortunately...Edgar & I drank it all this night....


Sunday 18 May 2010
My wife got up for breakfast (normally I am alone and have to bring up a large pot of coffee).
The sun was shining and off we set..the 4 of us...high up into the Black Forest mountains...to visit a tourist attraction..the Mummelsee. As we got out of the car...my wife Eva...was telling our friends it would be a little cold and that they should put on a jacket. I suggested my version...not exactly Karl Lagefeld...but an attractive option. We walked round the sea....and viewed the 'new' hotel...the old one had burned down a couple of years ago.














Back to our hotel...Sunday lunchtime...the restaurant was packed...so we ordered 4 soups..and enjoyed them in our room.
Our friends left around 2pm...then...it was off to see the local team play football (soccer...for the foreigners reading). I try to plan that they are playing when we visit..it is a lovely setting...and watching grass-roots football is great.









The marinated Salmon was part of another course on offer....but was a perfect starter...
The threesome in the middle is Hare...and my wife had a very fine 'Schitzel' with her fresh Asparagus.

Weingut Bernhard Huber Wildenstein Spätburgunder trocken Barrique 2007
Baden, Germany
This is the TOP wine from Huber....and is as always...a compactness of fruit...much firmer than the Schlossberg....red cherry dominates...elegant...yes....again...a surprise...the 2007 here shows earlier appeal...compared to the previous 2 vintages.....it thickened with air...showing some vanilla....and structure and length of flavour.
Points 18





Monday 17 May 2010
DURBACH DAY
Monday...and Rebstock is closed until Tuesday midday. My wife went to the hairdressers in Kappelrodeck....normally a closing day in this trade...but due to most restaurants being closed...it is the only day they can get their hair done. Bettina from our restaurant was also booked in.
Midday....and we set off to Durbach. It is a pleasant 30 minute drive along picturesque lanes.
The reason to drive there usually is for a game of mini-golf...but this time I had planned to visit various properties in the search for some Spätburgunder 2007.
Weingut Markgraf von Baden
Schloss Staufenberg
First on the list...the castle on the hill...which allows you a fine view of the village below....
I asked after 2007...but all they had was 2008 Spätburgunder trocken & 2008 Spätburgunder Carl Friedrich. There is a terrace where you can eat some 'flammenkuchen'....but it was chilly...so down we went.







Weingut Heinrich Männle
Situated firmly where the wines grow...I arrived...and a charming lady appeared. This turned out to be Sylvie Männle. I purchased some 2007 Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken....and the Auslese trocken...both Barrique. She proudly showed me the new cellar for tasting....and my wife joined us...and we were also shown some paintings...by an artist....all with grape names...and supposedly looking like the grape tastes! Frau Männle asked about my interest in wine...and I said I write a blog...and could I have a photo. Oh no...I've not had my hair done....but..out came the hair-grip...and we have the delightful pose of a happy wine grower!








Weingut Graf Wolff Metternich & Weingut Schwörer
Two properties situated within a few yards of each other. I purchased some 2007 SB Spätlese & Auslese trocken from Metternich....my wife wandered happily along the pathway...down onto the road...to the 'unattractive' shop of Schwörer. property....where a the lady behind the counter was very enthusiastic...this property has won lots of medals...mind you...it depends where you win medals sometimes...but I think the Durbacher Plauelrain Spätburgunders may be decent...2007 of both 'Barrique & 'Holzfaß'.














Weingut DZ Danner
As you leave Durbach....heading to Waldulm...this is the last property on the left. The Riesling's have potential...but are not for the weak stomached...and need plenty of time to develope. I was greeted by Sonja Danner.....husband Alexander was not around...and was lucky to be able to buy a couple of bottles of the 2007 Pinot Noir trocken Barrique Number 3.









It was now 2 pm...and we had no urgency to drive back yet...so we headed for the Black Forest High Road...through the Spar villages Bad Peterstal & Bad Griesbach...where we had a 'late' lunch...a large Schnitzel with Pommes Frites. If you ever get the chance to go to the Black Forest...be sure to take the high road.
Black Forest High Road
As we hit the top....we suddenly had this gigantic wind machine in front of us...it had not been visible before...and the wildness of the surrounding countryside...breathless! We overtook some cyclists...hats off to these guys....those hill climbs!











After a short stop at the excellent Supermarket in Achern...to obtain cheese and ham for our hotel room picnic....I revisted a property I had tried for earlier that day... while my wife was under the hairdryer. I rang the bell...no answer...but a kind neighbour said Tobias was round the corner on his tractor. Sure enough...there he was. Can I buy some wine I asked...ah..a customer he replied with a laugh. Into the tasting room...he was the only one on this day to convince me to try a glass...(I need all my concentration for my evening intake.....)
Weingut Tobias Köninger
Kappelrodeck
A four year old property...with help from his family...this sympathetic grower makes you wish you were a wine maker. Proudly showing me his tasting cellar....he even convinced me also to buy a bottle of his Cabernet Sauvignon...but the Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 also exchanged hands.






















Back to the hotel...and the cold delicacies bought from the Supermarket.
Winzerkeller Hex vom Dasenstein in Kapelrodeck...is a Co-operative where busloads of tourists arrive.
The 'Mother' now has a 'Daughter'...Jürgen Decker & Marco Köninger are attempting to produce more 'up-market wines'. Herr Hodapp had sent up the bottle to our room...with orders to try it and give my comments...but leave enough for him the next day...as he was thinking about adding it to his wine-list when it is released later this year
Villa Heynburg Spätburgunder
Grande Reserve trocken 2008

Baden, Germany
Fragrant aroma....fruit is decent...but the oak is dominant...and there seems emptiness...not something to write home about...and confirmed by Karl Hodapp 2 days later( tasted alongside a glass of Dr Heger from Tuesday night)
Points 15...and the price will not be low









Tuesday 18 May 2010
Short trip to a wine merchant who still had 3 bottles of Drautz-Able Jodokus Hades 2001 I had bought last time I was in the area. Karl Hodapp winced when we last spoke in September...about the idea of adding a wine from Württemberg to his list....local rivalry....but I gave a bottle to his staff...to pass on to him in the kitchen...with the instructions he should cover up the label when trying it. I await the tasting notes!
I set off after lunch for an hour's energetic climb...high into the vineyards behind the hotel....wonderful views...and as the weather is not too hot...wonderful gulps of fresh air.













Coming down at the back of the village...the gardens are full of colour...and there are local distilleries...they are proud of their 'Schnaps' here.















Karl Hodapp and Sandra Stark produced a future star....Basti is 2 and a half now......

Tuesday 18 May 2010
My wife was not feeling like food...so...armed with literature... I dined alone.

Dr Heger Achkarrer Schlossberg
Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs 2007
Baden, Germany
'Lecker'....as we say in Germany....tasty...smoky note...intense fruit...quite full...which defies the colour....just got better....sometimes that's all you can say.....
Points 17.5








Wednesday 19 May 2010
My wife wanted to drive to Kenzingen to buy chocolate...it's an hour's drive!...for chocolate!!!....but...being the good husband I am...and thankful she was feeling better....we set off...arriving at noon..with 30 minutes before the shop closed. They didn't have what she wanted...but luckily 'eagle-eyed Barry' spotted another shop..and wife was happy.
Sat in the car while all this was going on.....I checked the map...10 miles to Malterdingen!
Huber....Schlossberg....2007...Saturday night..remember?....I need to buy some.
It's now in MY cellar.....I'll resist as long as possible....







The last evening....and Wednesday there is usually a few changes to the menu....








Another 'greeting from the kitchen' Lobster Maultäschle...and the couple of changes to the menu card...Vitello Tonnato of Sucking-Pig and some local Beef

No Spätburgunder tonight! Shock! Horror!....but little sister instead...and from Franken.
Weingut Rudolf Fürst Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg
Frühburgunder trocken 'R' 2007
Franken, Germany
Concentrated fruit....and I like Franken reds....loads of juicy fruit....smoke...elegant & stylish..a perfect wine to end with....
I forgot what points I gave it...but if my memory serves me correctly....
Points 17.5









Thursday 20 May 2007
Last look out of the window.....deep breath of the wonderful air.....
Goodbye to the staff...and Karl Hodapp kindly gave me a bottle of Kopp's Spätburgunder trocken 'S' 2007...one of the wines I didn't manage to try this trip.









We have already booked for late August / early September...when hopefully it will be warm and we can sit on the terrace.....still some wines on the list to be tried...and it will be no hardship to re-taste some of the above.

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